Leaderboard

Someone posted this on Facebook on the flathead 6 group. Since it’s a Dodge, shouldn’t it be here, too?

I agree.....but just to set the record clear....make America Beautiful..... wreck a chebbie instead...…..

With a new cam you really should attemp to get the RPM's up to around 1500-2000 RPM almost imediately to provide proper cam break in. Timing needs to be set real close... definately not over advanced, check leaks and get it up to normal temp during break in.. I'll admit these flat heads have wimpy valve spring pressure but it's still good to know the cam was broke in correctly...just sayin...? The engine sounds good though.

I've copied this from Bob's Facebook page. It was written by his son. Bob and his '40 Plymouth the Wayback Machine have been posting on here in the past. Keep him in your thoughts. Hi guys, Dad has been hacked. It's Josh. I have no idea what to say or how to say it. My hero is losing his battle with cancer. He is very weak and is in Hospice care at my home. the started his morphine pain management meds today. he is taking very little in the way of food or water. What little he gets is when he is asked. I would like to personally thank everyone of dad's great friends and family for all of the love and support you all have given him with this journey. I will do my best to post what I can when I can. I just don't know what to type as the tears flow from my eyes, to see the one of the strongest men in my life fight so hard and be this weak is very heartbreaking. I love you all as does dad. Thank you all so much.

My small soft plastic "umbrella sound control" kept staying in my ear canal. I found that the use of a small wad of cotton ball behind the mic to hold it in, improved my hearing by 100%, in volume and in clarity. Sounds are now real and clear. Will have a talk with my fitter next week. I certainly hope other HOH members are coping. Sometimes I feel like joining a monistary, I now qualify in TWO ways! LOL

My new headliner for my '53 pilothouse that I designed and installed myself. Yes, the side panels are a little different color for contrast. Would like some comments please.

20 minutes watch for leaks, oil pressure temp etc..make sure timing is in spec and if all is ok... drive it like it running great.

With a heavy heart our good friend Bob lost his fight with cancer in the evening of Halloween, just 5 month, 156 days after loosing his bride Patty, by him moving to Fletcher OK with Josh and his family solved the fear of what would happen to his co-pilot Cooper, which I know gave him much stress while in Neversink. Rest easy my friend, miss you loads. God Bless You.

Sadly the 216 splash oil system chebbie would not last to the end of the scene. They chose the car that was capable of getting the job did.

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php This is a good site to check the motor numbers for year and size of motor. Also a 218 and 230 block are identical. The difference is is the stock of the crank. Matching rods are required to match the crank. 230 rods are shorter than the 218 rods. Evergthing like the pistons, rings, rod and main bearing size are the same. DJ

Fun to watch but I really hate to see a neatly styled '39 coupe beat on like that. I have always been really fond of that year's coupes, the Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler. There ain't many of 'em left. John R

The vinyl shower liner material is actually called FRP Panel. ( embossed fiberglass reinforced plastic wall panel ) They make two thicknesses. Be sure to use the .090" inch. I used stainless steel to make the three ribs on top but I suppose you could use 3/32" x 1 or 2" inch aluminum bar stock or something similar. The stainless worked really well though. I left about two inches short on each end of the ribs for plastic only so it can slide in above the sun visor lip and attach to the back above the window. Also used two short ribs on the side above the door to hold that curve shape. Tried using liquid nails but it still needed to be pop riveted on each end of the ribs. Use the flat side of the panel for material side. The pebble side is real shiny and doesn't adhere well to glue. Made my panels a little too big to start with so I could tweak them in a little at a time for a good fit. After installing the top I used cardboard mockup for side panels and then transferred those to 1/4" plywood. If you drill the mounting holes first you can make the plywood a little bit too big also and then tweak that in so you will get a good fit using an ice pick for hole locating. Tried to keep my holes in the plywood about an 1/8 of an inch below the mounting holes above the door so that I could force the panel up slightly for a good fit. By the way, mine actually looks better in person than what the photo shows because of the glare from the camera flash. It's not near as silvery as the picture seems to show. It is a little bit darker. Hope this helps and good luck with your project. Steve. If I can be of any help let me know.

If you’ve been moving the distributor around have you taken the time to static time it with a test light? You may be close, but off enough that it won’t start. Get the timing dialed in and try it again. Also... I remember the first time I fired up my engine, I had everything right, even double checked everything, but it wouldn’t fire. I finally cracked the throttle open a little and it jumped to life. Turns out that my idle circuit wasn’t providing enough fuel to start. Once I got that sorted out all was good.

Then perhaps I was going faster..... lol I was in overdrive with about 2200RPMs on the tach give or take. I wasn't pushing it, but it was moving pretty decent with way more available if I desired.

This turret flare tool is awesome! My bench vice is a little awkwardly near the wall of my shop so I will have to plan my runs carefully or make them then remove flare and reinstall but it made two perfect flares in 5/16” steel tube like butter.

These two haulers best be careful.