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I've been driving my 49 Plymouth as much as possible. I've now got 2,300 miles on it. Only issues so far are minor. I plan to take it on its longest run yet this weekend: Alexandria, VA to Philadelphia via the back roads. Haven't checked out the mileage yet, but it's 3 hours if you take the interstate. I'll be mapping out my route tomorrow. Here's what the front of the car looks like after a 26-mile night drive along the Potomac River:

That is true enough. When I first got my engine running I did the compression test and found #4 and #5 were a 10#-12# lower than the other cylinders. I think that is pretty typical of one of these engines that has been sitting for a long spell. I had an initial vacuum reading of 17" with a bounce of 1" or so. I was able to get a higher and more stable vacuum reading of 18" at idle by reworking the carb and replacing the faulty PCV valve. I kept after things by doing several oil changes to flush out all the sludge and deposits. Things actually got better with this treatment. Now I get a steady vacuum reading of 19.5" when cold and once it warms up it is at 20.5" or better. The last time I did a compression check all the clyinders were within 5# of each other and had an average of 116#. I am happy with that sort of number considering I did not do a rebuild. I think these engines can respond very well to modern detergent oils. Once all the old sludge and build up is flushed out even a worn engine isn't so bad as long as there is no serious damage. Jeff

The D6U1 is original fitment to your 1953 Cranbrook. D6U1 is the critical number to identifying the appropriate rebuild kit.

NAPA Auto parts, Echlin rebuild kit. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Carburetor-Kit/_/R-CRB25066A_0186038524

Fred; I brought this up because I kinda think that there are a lot of these engines out there that could benefit from this sort of treatment. And you are correct I was lucky......but I knew it had a chance because I pulled the head and oil pan before I ever turned it over. I won't go into that whole story here. One point I am trying to make is that these engines can hold a lot of sludge and deposits and they can run better once most of this crud has been flushed out. I know I had a couple of sticky valves early on and that is no longer the case. The other point is that a vacuum gauge can be one of the most valuable tools you have in assessing the condition and state of tune. They seem to get ignored by many and for the life of me I can't understand why. One thing I believe in very strongly is if you do your best to keep the oil in the engine clean ......and the fuel and air going into it clean as well you will see the benefits. This isn't as easy as it sounds if we are talking about an old engine that has not been completely torn down and rebuilt. There is plenty of areas for the crap to form and build up and one or two quick treatments are not going to get it all. And I don't think the situation is helped at all by retaining the old road draft tubes and 160 degree thermostats. . Jeff

I thought my original answer was straight forward but I guess you did not understand what I was saying. Pictured is the coil and resistor I use. This coil is not internally resisted. It is possible to buy a coil that is internally resisted and when doing so no external resistor is required. However when using an internally resisted coil it is not possible to by-pass the resistor for a full 12 volt startup. Pictured below is the Ford 4 post solenoid I have installed on my car. Dave described the operation of this solenoid. Post #3 is hot only when the solenoid is energized and I have it wired directly to the ignition coil bypassing the resistor giving a full 12 volt charge for startup. One word of warning when using this setup. If you use a remote starter button connected to the solenoid under the hood the engine will fire every time the solenoid is energized even with the ignition switch in the off position.

I have been toiling with the idea of a rear bumper bar and came up with this..using a F100 bar and modify it.. I made it the same size as the front bar, the F100 is a lot bigger..after resizing made a step platform

Drop about 1/2 a quart of Seafoam cleaner in the crank case before the oil change and put about 100 miles on it then change the oil and filter. That should clean up a lot of gunk and put it in the oil pan, at least it did for me. Joe

You got it registered yet Ryan? I showed my old mate Arnold your spare tyre mount & he is planning on doing the same with his. You might have to patent these good ideas of yours!

After what you did to that poor truck you should go back to her with a big bag of money........shame on you.

Haha!

The correct radio would be a model 800.

With this resonse to an "artsy, fartsy, folksy" look, I entertain this conversation close. My brother has two 2014, 120,000.00 Porches. When we go to lunch, no one ever says to him, " nice car" but I am constantly talking to someone about my truck because they LIKE the 'look'! I take no offense either way because I've found a very enjoyable retirement hobby and a few grumpy, but fun friends. Today I'm going to buy a journal and enter into it summaries of ensuing conversations. I would suggest others should consider the same. Sometimes I like Rockwell, sometimes I like Piccaso, sometimes I listen to Willie Nelson, sometimes I listen to the Irish Tenors. Both sell a lot of CD's. The highways are wide and long which suits me fine.

With the clamp loose, the air cleaner snaps over the carburetor. At least it feels that way. It takes a bit of a push to seat the air cleaner. Then the clamp gets tightened. (Edit:) I found a better photo of the air cleaner fitting onto the carburetor: