Dave72dt

Our third great grandchild brought the new year in as the first newborn of the year yesterday at 7:00 p.m. First photo indicated he was not happy about it even if Mom and Dad were.

I've got manual front disc, rear drum on my Mach I. Pedal effort is more than with power but no more than with drum all around. Used the same pedal when I did the conversion.

Give them the length of your brake pedal to the center of the pedal pivot point and from the center of the pedal pivot point to the center of the pushrod pivot point. You might also want to measure the travel distance of the pedal to the floor. Their engineers can calculate it or you can. You may want to note the position of the pushrod pivot point to the pedal also. It's going to be in the 6 : 1 minimum ratio for manual brakes and a bit less for power assist but do your measurements. I know there's some info on the internet regarding pedal ratios when researching for my firewall mounted booster and hanging pedals.

If you laid a straight edge front to rear across all the bed cross members, where does the end channel lay in relation to those? Above or even with?

It "looks" like you may have room to move the L brackets down that 1/4". Possibly moving the fastening on the L brackets would get you where you need to be without slotting thew holes in the stake pocket.

I understood your system the first time and knew you were going to do the GM version. That was obvious. There are alternatives and you made your choice. As long as it works and you're happy, great. The objective of getting the truck running reliably has been accomplished. Time to move on.

There were all kinds of boxes on Eby for under 50 and free shipping and are the same for slant 6 or V8, 4 pin or 5, either would work and were on every gas powered Chrysler mid 70's to late 80's. new connectors are ridiculously priced, yes but female bullet connectors will go right on the terminals so a cheap diy harness is doable. Ign system is just different from what everyone else had, not difficult. You don't need high rpm performance with that flat six. Resistor is not bypassed. those resistors have 2 different resistance values. Hey, it's running with what you put together. That's what counts. You might want to keep a spare of that module you're using on hand. I 've had those go bad as well.

You probably could have gotten that Mopar module and pigtail for less than 10 bucks as a salvage yard. I can't imagine it's a hot seller.

Go all the way back and check point gap with a feeler gauge and check on each lobe of the cam. Also give the shaft a push towards the points to see if the gap changes. Expect some change since the shaft should be snug in the housing but not loose.

It would have been nice to see the amp gauge while you were starting it or if you turned the lights on or when you backed off the throttle or revved it the first time just after starting or when you turned it off. Did you see a deflection in the needle to the right as you started it? Needle a bit to the left of center after it's been running would be normal if the needle went back to the center after it was turned off.

Numbers matching only matters if you do shows with judging for originality. You'll lose points every time you put your "touch" on it. It's a plus to have it, buying or selling, just like having all the trim in good condition, all the gauges working, engine runs, glass is good, etc, The better it is, the more you should expect to pay.

Your wife can learn to drive a standard transmission. My wife did. Her sister did. All my kids did. It's not a gender specific skill.

It got all the way up to 26 here on Thursday, started snowing about 6AM and kept snowing all day and still snowing when i cleared the driveway for the last time about 9PM. Expecting a high about 20 on Saturday. Sledders have already been on the hill behind my house.

Weld through primer, comes in a spray can, SEM is a popular brand. Might be a brushable version also. I've used it, was not impressed with it. It worked better if you removed it from the plug weld holes prior to welding. JMO, your opinion and experience may vary.

It's a non pressurized system so you can run it with the cap off. Warm it up with the cap off and observe the coolant. Bubbles in the coolant are an indication of compression seeping into the system. There is also a chemical solution that can be purchased for testing for exhaust gas contamination.