fuse needed

[Robin (UK)]

Hey guys,

I need a fuse for my lighting circuit.

The one I removed is a BUSS SFE 30.

Searching the web, I can only find these in the States.

Is there an alternative that I can look for?

And, in case I do end up needing to import from the US, does anyone know a good supplier?

Thanks.

Robin.

Got out of trouble last night by making a 'fuse' from a soda can!!!

[BobT-47P15]

Hi Robin.....check this guy out on ebay. Pkg of 5 for a buck plus $1.99

shipping (at least in the US). Seller in Kansas City, MO. Ad says two

pkgs available. Can buy it now. 160156858674 or http://cgi.ebay.com/Buss-Fuses-SFE-30-BP-SFE-30-32-Volts-Auto-Boat-New_W0QQitemZ160156858674QQihZ006QQcategoryZ109447QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

Otherwise, I can probably find some locally. I just found a 5 pack of them

(minus the one I used) in my glove box. They probably came from a local

parts store. Did you check your parts stores? The ones I have are on a

card that would be hanging on a hook in the store.

[Young Ed]

Those are easily available here. I bought a pack like Bob did at Napa. I have also bought 1 at a hardware store locally too

[Robin (UK)]

Looks to me like it must be an American size, as it's much longer than the fuses I can get in the UK.

The one I need is 35mm long.

Bob, Ed, anyone... if you can accept me sending you the money by Paypal, I'd really appreciate it if you could get me 10 fuses of the correct rating and size and send them in a bubble-wrapped package.

(I'll hold the spares for the other Plym/Dodge guys I know, here.)

Please let me know.

Thanks.

Robin.

robin@rockthejoint.com

[Young Ed]

Robin I'll stop at Napa and see if they have 10 or can get me that many. They are used to my oddball requests

[greg g]

UK source. I think these were used as the main fuse on the voltage regulator on early midgets and AH sprites probably other Morris, Austin and BL, applications also. The extra 5 amps should't be a problem.

Check your head lamp to body earth connections, and your brake lamps as well.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220236013383&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr12_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=380019192845&itemcount=12&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m184&_trkparms=algo%3DDR%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D12

[Robin (UK)]

Thanks Greg,

Unfortunately, the UK supplied fuses are 5mm shorter.

That's what I'd found from my research this morning.

If Ed's NAPA contact comes up with the goods, I'll go with those.

Otherwise, I'll buy Stateside (from someone) and ship 'em in.

Big thanks to all you guys - this is exactly why the P15-D24 Forum is my favorite place on the web!

By the way, I found that the wire to the center brake light had come out and shorted against the trunk lid.

I've taped it off for now - I was running three brake lights, so can go without it until I have some time.

[mackster]

A piece of steel rod cut to the correct length will replace that fuse:eek:

One will last a lifetime:D

But then you better stock up on light bulbs because they will fry next time there is a short!

[builtfercomfort]

The critical part of a standard automotive fuse is the narrow spot in the middle. Though it is a pain, they are rebuildable if you have another fuse of the right amps to disassemble to get the inside metal part. (I've done it when it was quicker than going to the store - i.e. out in the middle of nowhere). A butane torch to melt the solider helps.

[TodFitch]

If you can't find those Buss fuses at the auto supply store, they are generally available at electronics supply firms including Radio Shack. Not sure about international shipment or availability though.

[Lou Earle]

I have several of these p-15's and every light switch gets hotter than hell. I have burned my finger ON he fuse. I think it is a function of age of the switch. Many will say it is a poor ground Well I have been there and done that-= all new wires grounds etc and switch still hot.

What I am doing is converting my light system over to an outside - under hood relay system. The 6 volt relays come up all the time on e bay. As I understand it the switch now just operates the relay at low amperage to transfer the power directly from battery to lights. I have checked this system and it seems to work well the switches are hot and lights are fine

Lou

PS the relay has its own fuse so I feel very comfortable with this system . If I am going to have an electrical short I sure want it under the hood and not the dash!!!

[Merle Coggins]

The light switch in my truck has a circuit breaker attached instead of a fuse. As far as I can tell it's original. Why would trucks use a circuit breaker, but cars have fuses? Or do the later cars use circuit breakers too?

Also, my switch wasn't making good contact to some terminals. I was able to open it up and clean the contacts. If you switch is running hot maybe it could just use a good cleaning.

[Young Ed]

Merle the later cars went to a breaker too. I have a 50 plymouth headlight switch in my truck that is supposed to have a breaker on it. Sadly the breaker is still sitting in my tool box! I also have an aftermarket pull type headlight switch with a breaker on it inplace of the fuse but its a little off where the knob attaches and I can't get the knob to function.

[TodFitch]

I have several of these p-15's and every light switch gets hotter than hell. I have burned my finger ON he fuse. I think it is a function of age of the switch. Many will say it is a poor ground Well I have been there and done that-= all new wires grounds etc and switch still hot.

What I am doing is converting my light system over to an outside - under hood relay system. The 6 volt relays come up all the time on e bay. As I understand it the switch now just operates the relay at low amperage to transfer the power directly from battery to lights. I have checked this system and it seems to work well the switches are hot and lights are fine

Lou

PS the relay has its own fuse so I feel very comfortable with this system . If I am going to have an electrical short I sure want it under the hood and not the dash!!!

Any place there is heat in an electrical switch or connection there is resistance that should not be there. Three solutions:

1) Clean secure the connection or clean the switch contacts.

2) Replace the connector or switch with one that has good contacts.

3) Reduce the current that is running through the component.

Using the headlight switch to simply control a relay is basically number 3 on the the list above and should work just fine as long as the relay is up to the load you want to run through it.

[Jim Yergin]

I have gone the headlight relay route. I picked up some Autolite headlight relays on eBay. Interestingly the instructions in the box have you use one relay to send the main power through the high/low beam switch. I chose to go on step further and install two relays, one for the high beams and one for the low beams. I figured that way I would not be placing any amperage burden on the high/low beam switch. Seems to work well.

Jim Yergin

[martybose]

There are actually both 6V and 12V relays that are intended to be headlight relays, because they have a pair of relays with a common hot source under one cover. The dimmer switch just becomes a signal input to the two relays.

Marty

[DutchEdwin]

Looks to me like it must be an American size, as it's much longer than the fuses I can get in the UK.

The one I need is 35mm long.

Robin,

The fuse I have in my garage in the Netherlands is 32mm long, diam 6.3mm

I do not know if this will do, but they are available in every store that handles electronics.

For the circuit breakers..... I'm using the ceramic type fuse they used to use in the early 70's in volvo, morris etc. They are still very good available in auto parts stores. I have them in series with the circuit breakers. Circuit breaker in the original spot and the fuses under the dash on the drivers side.

Looks nice and old under the dash in this way. More safety when something goes wrong.

(remember Murphey's law: a $300 picture tube will protect a $0.10 fuse by blowing first.........and Murphey was an optimist:D )

[BobT-47P15]

When my headlight switch got real hot, it also blew the fuse a while after headlights were turned on.

The problem was that I had two wires hooked

up backwards on the switch. You might double check that possibility.

I had changed the switch one time and did the reverse connection then.

Had not had a bit of trouble with that original switch until then. As I

recall, the crossed wires were the two that attached to the back end

of the switch.