Ivan_B Posted 22 hours ago Report Posted 22 hours ago (edited) 36 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said: Tightening the Carb screws in careful stages down to 16 -24 OZ each (I don't even know how to do this). Smaller torque wrenches use in/oz instead of ft/lb 36 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said: So I guess instead of us being obstinate about the method used "Its whatever floats your skirt" LOL I would concur with that, there are different ways to accomplish the objective at hand. Edited 22 hours ago by Ivan_B Quote
TodFitch Posted 22 hours ago Report Posted 22 hours ago 2 minutes ago, Ivan_B said: Smaller torque wrenches use in/oz instead of ft/lb Being a bit pedantic, for torque the force and distance values are multiplied rather than divided. So that would be "inch ounces" (in-oz) and "foot pounds" (ft-lb). Unless you are being swayed by the metric system where force is listed first and people use newton-meters, in which case it would be oz-in and lb-ft. I don’t know why the dash is used rather than a multiply sign in the abbreviations. Quote
Ivan_B Posted 22 hours ago Report Posted 22 hours ago 1 minute ago, TodFitch said: Being a bit pedantic, for torque the force and distance values are multiplied rather than divided. Thank you, you are right 😇 Quote
Sniper Posted 21 hours ago Report Posted 21 hours ago (edited) 1 hour ago, Tom Skinner said: 6 -24 OZ That's not even a torque spec, guess he meant in-oz? That works out to 1.5 in-lbs though with the high spec, way too low imo Edited 21 hours ago by Sniper Quote
TodFitch Posted 20 hours ago Report Posted 20 hours ago 56 minutes ago, Sniper said: That's not even a torque spec, guess he meant in-oz? That works out to 1.5 in-lbs though with the high spec, way too low imo I am guessing it meant between 16 and 20 in-oz. Given that these are screws into old die castings with thin walls that might be about right. Being self-taught on old iron where torque specifications weren’t even published, nearly all of the nuts and bolts on my car were tightened by feel. Only exception being the head stud nuts where I used a torque wrench and the specifications for later engines. On my new car the wheel lug nuts are spec’d at 80 to 90 ft-lbs. When I last had the wheels off that car I dug out my torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. I noticed that my "feels about right" tightening worked out to 85 ft-lbs on my torque wrench. I won’t bother with the torque wrench on those lug nuts again, I’ll just do them like I have done them on all my other cars over the years. Quote
Sniper Posted 15 hours ago Report Posted 15 hours ago Well, how bolts/screws hold tight is the stretch imparted via torque. Not enough and they loosen, which probably explains why all those darn Jeep 1bbl holleys kept loosening up on me, till I loc-tited them, I dunno. Quote
Saskwatch Posted 2 hours ago Report Posted 2 hours ago A lot of good ideas here on addressing the warped carburetor horn. I would also be interested in how to address a worn carburetor throttle shaft housing , resulting in throttle shaft” play” I’m tempted to try sliding a snug fitting fibre washer on the throttle shaft, so it rides against the carburetor body, hopefully, as a temporary fix to slow down the passage of air ? Quote
bacelaw Posted 1 minute ago Report Posted 1 minute ago 2 hours ago, Saskwatch said: A lot of good ideas here on addressing the warped carburetor horn. I would also be interested in how to address a worn carburetor throttle shaft housing , resulting in throttle shaft” play” I’m tempted to try sliding a snug fitting fibre washer on the throttle shaft, so it rides against the carburetor body, hopefully, as a temporary fix to slow down the passage of air ? I think some have had luck sliding a small o-ring over the throttle shaft to cure any air leaks there. Quote
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