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Carter BB Carburator rebuild tip


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Posted (edited)
36 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said:

Tightening the Carb screws in careful stages down to 16 -24 OZ each (I don't even know how to do this).

Smaller torque wrenches use in/oz instead of ft/lb :)

36 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said:

So I guess instead of us being obstinate about the method used "Its whatever floats your skirt" LOL

I would concur with that, there are different ways to accomplish the objective at hand.

Edited by Ivan_B
Posted
2 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

Smaller torque wrenches use in/oz instead of ft/lb :)

Being a bit pedantic, for torque the force and distance values are multiplied rather than divided. So that would be "inch ounces" (in-oz) and "foot pounds" (ft-lb).

 

Unless you are being swayed by the metric system where force is listed first and people use newton-meters, in which case it would be oz-in and lb-ft.

 

I don’t know why the dash is used rather than a multiply sign in the abbreviations.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Tom Skinner said:

6 -24 OZ

 

That's not even a torque spec, guess he meant in-oz?  That works out to 1.5 in-lbs though with the high spec, way too low imo

Edited by Sniper
Posted
56 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

That's not even a torque spec, guess he meant in-oz?  That works out to 1.5 in-lbs though with the high spec, way too low imo

I am guessing it meant between 16 and 20 in-oz. Given that these are screws into old die castings with thin walls that might be about right.

 

Being self-taught on old iron where torque specifications weren’t even published, nearly all of the nuts and bolts on my car were tightened by feel. Only exception being the head stud nuts where I used a torque wrench and the specifications for later engines.

 

On my new car the wheel lug nuts are spec’d at 80 to 90 ft-lbs. When I last had the wheels off that car I dug out my torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. I noticed that my "feels about right" tightening worked out to 85 ft-lbs on my torque wrench. I won’t bother with the torque wrench on those lug nuts again, I’ll just do them like I have done them on all my other cars over the years.

Posted

Well, how bolts/screws hold tight is the stretch imparted via torque.  Not enough and they loosen, which probably explains why all those darn Jeep 1bbl holleys kept loosening up on me, till I loc-tited them,

 

I dunno. 

Posted

A lot of good ideas here on addressing the warped carburetor horn.  
  I would also be interested in how to address a worn carburetor throttle shaft housing , resulting in throttle shaft” play”

   I’m tempted to try sliding a snug fitting fibre washer on the throttle shaft, so it rides against the carburetor body, hopefully, as a temporary fix to slow down the passage of air ? 

Posted
2 hours ago, Saskwatch said:

A lot of good ideas here on addressing the warped carburetor horn.  
  I would also be interested in how to address a worn carburetor throttle shaft housing , resulting in throttle shaft” play”

   I’m tempted to try sliding a snug fitting fibre washer on the throttle shaft, so it rides against the carburetor body, hopefully, as a temporary fix to slow down the passage of air ? 

 

I think some have had luck sliding a small o-ring over the throttle shaft to cure any air leaks there.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Saskwatch said:

 I would also be interested in how to address a worn carburetor throttle shaft housing , resulting in throttle shaft” play”

The only way I know is to install shaft bushings. I saw kits on e-bay with the tools and bushings 🙂

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Posted
16 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

The only way I know is to install shaft bushings. I saw kits on e-bay with the tools and bushings 🙂

There was a thread on here a few years ago where this was brought up. I got a reamer and bushings off McMaster and was able to do a test carb. I loaned that carb out to someone local who was having issues but then it turned out his was a dist thing. So I can't say how good it works 

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Young Ed said:

There was a thread on here a few years ago where this was brought up. I got a reamer and bushings off McMaster and was able to do a test carb. I loaned that carb out to someone local who was having issues but then it turned out his was a dist thing. So I can't say how good it works 

I did the same. I used Oilite bushings, drilled the holes in the base oversized to accommodate the bushings, and reamed it out until it seemed to fit without binding. Haven't tested it on the car yet, and may not, since I managed to find 2 Strombergs that will work with my heap. I realized it's devilishly hard (or impossible) to get the two sides bored out and lining up perfectly, just using a drill press and my limited skills, but it seems close, and no worse than it was, which was really, really bad. 

Edited by Art Bailey
  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Ivan_B said:

Shouldn't you be drilling and reaming both sides at the same time?

Yes the concept at the time was to put the reamer in the drill backwards and use it as it's own guide

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