Mopar Exhaust Manifold Studs

[andyd]

I have a question..........I am looking to find 318 Poly Exhaust Manifold Studs..........yes I know this forum is for the various side valve 6 engines, specifically the Dodge/Plymouth 23" however living here in Australia has its limitations..........I am looking for up to 16, but 8 will do of these with the following diamensions......3/8"th diameter, 1 & 1/2 " long with 3/8 UNC thread at the cylinder head end, and 3/8 UNF at the other end with approx 1/2" in the middle with no thread.

I know Wanted Adverts should be placed in the Classified Section but can I ask that the moderators  be a little forgiving with me as I've run up against a brick wall both here and in the USA( where the postage cost for these I've been quoted as nearly $70 Australian.........just for postage by an East Coast fastener company)

Anyway I can get away with using just 3/8UNC bolts but I'd like to get the original studs if possible.

..........rather than clog up this forum my direct email is  scaleautomobilia@yahoo.com and I can be contacted there or email a phone number and I'll call you, your best time.......  

 

Thank You for any and all consideration.......Andy Douglas  

[Plymouthy Adams]

buy a bolt a tad longer in the shank section, cut to length and tap the shank for install to the head and be done with it all.  I would think being the large AG resources in your country these could be found easily.  I can walk into about any hardware store in the US and these are on the shelf.  Shipping, yeah that has been out of control and getting worse.  

[moparfun]

You might try McMaster-Carr

[Plymouthy Adams]

I cannot see them shipping to Oz at any great savings....but......I could be wrong.  Still think local sourcing of shank bolts and rolling your own would likely be the better option in cost and availability.  

[TodFitch]

1 minute ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I cannot see them shipping to Oz at any great savings....but......I could be wrong.  Still think local sourcing of shank bolts and rolling your own would likely be the better option in cost and availability.  

I don't know the torque specifications for the 318 poly but typically it isn’t very high. . . measured in inch-pounds instead of foot-pounds. No fancy metals required.

 

So I am going to back up @Plymouthy Adams and see if you can get bolts to modify from your local hardware store. The only issue might be that SAE bolts might not be as easy to get in Australia as here.

[andyd]

Thanks guys for the replies, I've tried the 6 auto parts stores, 3 engineering supply stores & 1 bolt specialist store that are in my town, Grafton, New South Wales and none have these nor can get them, UNC/UNF/SAE bolts are not common now in Oz, no problem gettingMetric but thats not what I want nor need, nor will fit..lol.......I've looked at just getting a die nut  & tapping the UNF thread myself but thought I'd see if anyone on here had a contact......as its a hotrod, the new engine was going to be painted Hemi orange..........even finding that was a hassle....one rattle can only at all 6 auto parts stores......everything is geared to Frod or Sanyway I've got a couple of leads to follow up.........will update.........Andy Douglas  

[Plymouthy Adams]

with the influx of the British made motor car of 50-70's and the later models being SAE over earlier models using Whitworth, I would not ever have thought finding SAE hardware an issue.  But, you know better than I for sure.....

[Plymouthy Adams]

well I went online for e-bay Australia, you folks sure have a serious problem with the economy down there....feel for you for sure.....like Harrison Ford said in the movie, it's an island, if you didn't bring it here, you not going to find it here.  A man could make a good living smuggling in bolts down there....lol

[andyd]

Its what it is........its like most things wherever you live, you adapt or accommodate the idioscigcracies that your area has.........I'm essentially in a regional  town with its limited scope......I grew up in Sydney, Oz's largest city, now 3-4million and I'm sure I'd find them somewhere there but as its 700kms away I'll pass........lol.........but I'll sort something out...........which do you think would be easier to hand cut with a die nut........UNC or UNF threads........was gunna get/find a bolt with the other thread on it with a long enough shank then tap the opposite thread............fun,fun..........andyd   

[Plymouthy Adams]

stay away from stainless steel as it galls easily, you can do either grade 5 or 8 without galling.....grade 5 would suffice but would prefer grade 8....however break a grade 8 and drill out later may be a mother.....

 

these can be yours in Australia for <60.00 US dollars for 20 each, but then I am not sure if your local feds will surcharge you on these....

Double-End Stud 3/8"-24 SAE x 1" -3/8"-16 USS x 5/8" - Box of 10 | eBay   This is far ahead of the game for what I saw on e-bay oz

[andyd]

Plymouthy.......those look to be the best deal so far but I've just spoken to a local guy who reckons he can check a mate of his that plays with MGB's & he thinks they use the same studs......this guy also has a lathe and I gave him 8 UNC and 8UNF bolts that each have enough shank that he can mount in his lathe, spin the bolt head off and cut new threads in the other end...........so things maybe looking up....lol.........will see what happens........lol...........andyd 

[andyd]

Well, I've decided to go with 3/8 UNC Grub screws that are 1 & 1/2 " long and are readily available & more importantly for tightwad me only a few dollars each so I expect to see these grub screws next Tuesday............yippee.........lol..........so we shall see.........andyd 

[Sniper]

I would suggest using Teflon tape on the threads of those screws that way they don't rust weld themselves to the block and snap off in the future.

Edited June 7 by Sniper

[andyd]

Yeh, I was thinking that I'd use some "Never Seaze" stuff I have...............just wondering whether using the grub screws as a bolt will work....what I mean is that they are screwed into the threaded hole using the hex that they have and a nut is used to hold the exhaust manifold against the head..........now the nuts would just be hand tightened which shouldn't place undue pressure on the grub screw but am now wondering...................will have to investigate this...........lol............andyd  

[Gramps46]

Try asking over on the H.A.M.B  forum. Lots of hot rodders in Australia.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/

[westaus29]

We sure need to be inventive to operate in Aus - try regional WA for a real challenge. Your grub screws should be plenty strong enough as I am pretty sure they are hi tensile, need to be to withstand allen key tightening.

[andyd]

Yeh, you're right just probably overthinking this........lol.........anyway got to actually get them first........I've been sold a few pups lately so we'll see.......lol.......andyd

[D35 Torpedo]

I would thread lock them in with medium grade locktite or equivalent. They will stay in place, seal the hole and still come out, a little heat helps as well.