Best way to time a 230 engine

[Labrauer]

I have a 230 engine in my 48 plymouth coupe that I need to time at top dead center. I put a electronic distributor on the car and the manufacturer says that it probably needs to be set about 18* before top dead center. Why I don't know but the car sounds like it's missing out. I think if I can pull the distributor out maybe I can just put it back in when I get it at top dead center. My question is how do I know when the engine is at top dead center without removing the water pump and the timing chain cover to line up the timing marks on the timing chain. Is there an easier way. 

[DonaldSmith]

See the crankshaft pulley.  The pully or a damper, if one, should have timing marks on it.  See recent posts on finding top dead center when No. 1 is finishing its compressionstroke.      

[Sniper]

Thew factory service manual would show you how to find it.

 

There are innumerable threads here showing how to do it, some as recently as last week.  Three of them on page two.

 

 

[oldodge41]

Try the above link for a pretty good explanation.

[9 foot box]

   Turn the engine over so that the pointer is at DC on the front pulley. Screw in the compression tester fitting to number one cylinder, attach your compressor hose. If it holds air pressure, you’re at TDC. If it doesn’t hold air, the engine is firing on number six cylinder, rotate the engine pulley one revolution to get to TDC. Be sure that the plug wires are all secured in the cap. 2 and 4 can be get loose with handling. Rick D.

[D35 Torpedo]

The best way would be the way the factory specified..

[DonaldSmith]

Pondering deeply the question "The best way to time an engine?"  Surely, Labrauer knows how to time an engine; he's probably done it once or twice.  He was asking the best way to time an engige.  Maybe that's like asking the best oil to use.   No single answer, and don't call him Shirley. 

 

Labrauer mentions the timing chain.  When assembling an engine. one has to get the cam working in sync with the craink.  That's a form of timing. 

 

The usual situation is timing the distributor to the crank and the cam.  This involves finding top dead center of the crank and determining the end of the compression stroke for No. 1 cylinder, so the rotor points to No. 1 spark plug.   Some guys use the probe hole in the No. 6 cylinder to find TDC.  Some of us use the timhg marks on the pulley or damper.  And the compression stroke can be found by a thumb, or golf ball, or whatever, on the spark plug hole.  (Add your own favorite metnod.) 

 

As in all philosophical matters, further ponderings and opinions are in order.  

 

[Saskwatch]

21 hours ago, Labrauer said:

manufacturer says that it probably needs to be set about 18* before top dead center. Why I don't

When you have time Labrauer , Would be interesting to read more about this electronic distributor. 
 Thank you in advance ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Unless you are installing this distributor in conjunction with the install of a performance cam, there is no change in the timing of the distributor in regard of stock degrees and relationship to TDC.   Some data is missing from your build or you forgot to capture the puff and flash of the smoke and mirror placed in the box by the seller and lost when you opened it.  OR you are confusing the total mechanical advance of the distributor with initial timing which at this point I have to ask what is going to your response when you rev and then add the total vacuum advance into the equation.   18 degrees is not right for stock timing for the stock cam in your car and will give you much grief if you try to establish initial timing at this spec. 18 total degree of mechanical advance however sound dead on for the application.

 

Where did you get this distributor, what documentation came with it and could you share that data sheet with the forum...

Edited November 3, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Tom Skinner]

Static Time (Not Running) Dynamic Time (Running).