Ever clean a dimmer switch?

[Los_Control]

I pulled another of my bone head moves, while installing the toe board was not careful & pulled the back off of the dimmer switch.

It basically exploded as it is under spring pressure.  I was picking pieces off of the ground, used a magnet to retrieve some hard to get to .... thought I had everything then found a spring on the floor ...... still not sure if I have all the pieces.

 

In my opinion is a perfect time to clean it & grease it .... I did this with my headlight & panel light switches.

Sadly I did not take it apart intentionally, now I do not know if I have all the pieces. .... I think I have the puzzle pieces in order, still not getting the positive click & lock so something is still wrong.

I see DCM & rockauto have the switches available .... still like to put this back together if I can ..... Anyone else ever take one apart have some insight?

 

[Rodney_Hamon]

A few months ago I installed a new dimmer sw from DCM and in my excitement of backing the truck out for the first time I forgot to make sure wires were routed outta the way from the clutch pedal. The pedal pulled off the back of the dimmer  sw with the wires still attached to their terminal ends. I looked inside and it was basic. I cursed. I zip tied it back together and it works but I  still need to buy another from DCM as they’re not expensive.  Just my pride hurt that’s all.    

[Los_Control]

Thanks for the reply @Rodney_Hamon ..... I probably will just order a new one. Going to give it another shot at putting it back together this afternoon. When it gets too hot for welding. I can sit in front of the fan with a cool drink & play with it.

 

I would prefer the original, while it is dirty inside it can be cleaned & greased. It does have tabs on it so it will snap back together & stay.

But, if I am still missing a piece it will never work & have to buy a new one.

[greg g]

New ones are offshore junque.  Real light materials, shoddy assembly.  How do I know?  The one I installed in my Studebaker truck came apart during the trucks state inspection when the tech cycled it like a bull in a china shop.  It did go back together.

I flicked the headlights during its next inspection. 

 

Probably better off to run a double throw, double contact toggle switch On the dash out to the terminal block.  

[Los_Control]

Thanks @greg g good advice .....To be honest I only check my headlights to see they work once a year for the annual safety inspection.

I'm usually in bed by the time it gets dark ..... no headlights for me.

A toggle switch may be a better choice.

The one switch from rockauto just looks like crap ready to fail. ... The switch from DCM looks better ......but if you yank on the wires, it falls apart & need zip ties to hold it together .... not exactly what I want either.

I just need lights to pass inspection ..... for now. ..... The only time I use headlights is when it is a dark & dreary day & turn them on for visibility .... not because it is after dark.

[B1B Keven]

I bought mine from Napa but that was years ago.

See if someone has one that doesn't work and that would send it to you.

Take it apart (slowly) and see how it's assembled?

[kencombs]

I'm taking a really long path to a new dimmer switch.  GM tilt column with it's switch.   Lots of other reasons* to put the column in, the switch is just a fringe benefit.  But that type of switch would be easy enough to do.

 

*no rigid steel spear in front of me, connect to the power steering gear, it easier for me to fit the trucks driving position etc.

[D35 Torpedo]

I took mine apart to get it working. That was a while ago now. I used fluid film to lubricate it. 

[okwood52]

About ten years ago, while rewiring my 1950 Dodge B2b, I bought a new dimmer button from an small town parts store.   The one I bought was identical to the original!  They said it was listed for a Peterbilt.  I guess when you have a design that works you just keep making it.  At least that's how it was done way back in the 20th century.  I think I still have the old one if you want it'

Edited July 12, 2023 by okwood52

[Ivan_B]

Did you manage to put the thing back together? It looks like you have all the parts. That dark wheel with the pin goes in the middle. Then you get the light wheel with the notches on it - this is for rotating the insides just a notch at a time when you push the button. Finally, the 3-tooth wheel is for connecting the electrical contacts located at the back of the cover

[Los_Control]

On 7/12/2023 at 8:02 AM, Ivan_B said:

Did you manage to put the thing back together? It looks like you have all the parts. That dark wheel with the pin goes in the middle. Then you get the light wheel with the notches on it - this is for rotating the insides just a notch at a time when you push the button. Finally, the 3-tooth wheel is for connecting the electrical contacts located at the back of the cover

Thanks for the great info. .... One of my biggest fears was if I had all the pieces for it.   I did not take it apart, it fell apart & I just searched for the pieces.

 

I feel more confident with it now, after your post. .... I had it as you say & it kinda sorta seemed like it would work .... operating the button by hand.

I still had not snapped it back into the case, it was loose & sloppy .... had not lubricated it yet .... My ADD kicked in & I just started welding in the floor pan, get back to it later.

 

I think I can get it, but happy to know older semi trucks used the same style & can replace it if mine does not come out as hoped.

Thanks for the tips.

[Ivan_B]

No problem. You just need to make sure that the 3 wheels are assembled facing the proper way. You can usually tell what was touching what, by looking at the applicable contact marks on the adjacent parts.

Based on the electrical diagram of my P10, the switch has 3 contacts and 4 wires going to it. The contact with 2 wires is the High beam output (one wire is going to the headlights another one to the in-dash indicator light). The other two contacts are a) main power input from the central light switch, and b) Low beam output. So, if you want to verify that your assembly is working correctly, you need to take a multi-meter and test for connectivity between the main power input contact and the two other contacts. Either one of them (and only one at a time) should be connected through, with the switch button in either position, that's it. You will have to snap the case together, for testing it, though.

 

And, if you decide to get a new one, you can always find a used OEM replacement.

Edited July 13, 2023 by Ivan_B

[Rodney_Hamon]

Los...I thought of you and had to laugh as I was just closing the drivers side engine hood and I kinda looked dn and then I saw that little spring just sitting in a little valley between this and that.  That spring that looks like it belongs in the switch we’re talking about. Oops. So I better snip the zip tie and take the back plate off and use a mirror to see if a spring is missing. Yikes 

[B1B Keven]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/183652060386?fits=Year%3A1950|Model%3ATruck|Make%3ADodge&hash=item2ac2840ce2:g:lzoAAOSwXc9cSfAx&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8CYAgTAUpK%2BSssniUOR6n9BSWTprwnQ4azBSEVXopB%2FHtid9ru6%2B%2FK7T4XUpi2Z05%2Bii68w322MlkhvseO0gx8za4G0EZTC0t5GgrCLT3%2Bja0sSDtMDMB6xv0PbIh6gynhTCXqchhXefsEcxZBBmxVuOvi06ykNo%2FvOIlxxYBd9Rzl8rgl9b86l1jTzMeB3iH%2F8VjXV1LUgfdHTv7ckikGBRFDehV3tG%2FUKk7OdCjcKgNY3k9g%2B1Xe2tB6nsaCa1U6eS1sXSkFQYwGKuAiT%2FgbOTxMYer12awukspS5hvWRYRubLfxopG6hlDpBZv2Uemg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR66tpcyqYg

[B1B Keven]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/404254564264

[Los_Control]

Good find on the NOS Kevin. Rockauto also list a switch for $18 ..... they just look like they are built cheesy .... I wonder how long they would last.

Which Is why I would like to put the original back together if I can ..... I think I can.

 

I like the idea of using the Peterbilt switch, it looks identical to our switches except for the bullet connector wiring. I am rewiring the truck sooo

I like this one made by Standard Motor products. $20.97

 

 

 

Replacing the Headlight Dimmer Switch on your 1977 Peterbilt 282? The Standard Motor Products DS-40 is a genuine replacement, with the fit of an Original Equipment part.

 

Robust design and high grade materials meet the stringent demands of today's service professional. Copper alloy conductors ensure superior electrical conductivity with low resistive losses. Our parts are 100% tested to verify both mechanical and electrical switching performance.. Decades of research to meet all of your needs. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.

 

 

[Ivan_B]

43 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Which Is why I would like to put the original back together if I can ..... I think I can.

Of course you can! An nothing is as good as the original part on an antique car. People who do proper restoration acid-clean and zinc-plate the original hardware, so that the car remains as much authentic as possible

[Rodney_Hamon]

So Los, did you put your switch back together?  I finally ordered a new dimmer switch and got it from Andy B. I was surprised to see that it was used.  Now I guess a good ole working switch is better than any new Asian knock off. That’s why my new previous one broke a while back. I dug out my old one that wasn’t working so I could see if I had the original screws and clips. Good thing as the one sent had no fasteners.  I’ll clean it up and install and see what happens.  The Andy B. sw is on the left in this pix 

[Los_Control]

1 hour ago, Rodney_Hamon said:

So Los, did you put your switch back together?  

Sadly I have not. With all the helpful info in this thread from others .... I had it all together like I think it should be .... I just needed to pull the trigger and smoosh it all down & close it up.

 

Like a squirrel chasing  nuts I get easily distracted and started working on welding & body work. ..... Although I did install the headlight buckets yesterday.

Sometime in the near future I will need the dimmer switch to complete the wiring. ..... Now I want to do some needed maintenance on the motor while have easy access.

I will need to install the fenders before headlight wiring harness .... I will try to put it back together or buy the Kenworth switch to replace it.

 

 

 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Truck looks great!  Who cares about a dumb ole dimmer switch when you’re doing the big picture. Lol. But I bet it’ll be easier to install that switch before the driver fender gets hung. I will be real curious to hear how that kenworth switch works when you do it.