Carberator leaking. Low fuel pressure

[rcl700]

I cleaned and rebuilt my carberator to the best of my ability yesterday, but came across an issue with the top gasket still not sealing. After looking closer I found the the uppermost part with choke plate is not completely compressing the gasket. The (4) screws holding it down are not tightening enough. One of the screw holes has a helicoil  that appears to be falling out. All the screw holes have them installed. 

I'm assuming this was a repair performed at some point?? Not factory??

It seems like the ones that are still working are stopping the installed screws from fully tightening. They may be a little too long and bottoming out.

I also ran into little to no fuel coming from the pump. I'll need to investigate more as I have no idea if it's a bad, pump bad lines, tank pickup??

 

What's a good place for pump rebuilt kit that can take modern fuel? 

I have the glass bowl type pump. 

 

[soth122003]

For your fuel pump, Rockauto.com has the rebuild kits as well as Summit racing and a few others. Most kits have the ethenal resistant gaskets and seals. 

 

As far as the carb, 

1. Are the mating surfaces deformed? dinged damaged bent? If yes, then you might try a sanding block on the top part and try to bring it back to flat. Just a little bit at a time and keep trying the fit. There is only so much you can take off. I would not recommend doing the base. And I would not take off more than .010 of material as then you are altering the engineering of the carb and doing more ham than good. 

 

2. If they had heli-coils put in then yes some one put them there and Yes the screws might be to long. You can cut the screws down a bit but not to much. 2 maybe 3 threads at most. and they should work. The screws look original so some one must have overtightened them in the past and stripped out the holes. Steel Screws versus pot metal holes... steel wins every time.  

 

As far as the heli-coil about to fall out, Use the right size allen wrench and remove it fully. Clean the hole and coil, use some red lock-tite and re-install the heli-coil. Make sure the heli-coil is not sticking up past the surface. (check the others as well) Let cure and for gods sake don't overtighten the screws when you put it back together. I didn't see any torque setting for installaion, but generally speaking  finger tight plus 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn will do.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Joe lee

Edited May 16, 2023 by soth122003

[Jerry Roberts]

Some of the forum members have used a sheet of glass for a flat surface when sanding . 

[rcl700]

I thought I had this problem addressed but looks like it still an issue.  I rebuild the furl pump and have the running but on the top gasket I can see it become wet and it pulsating (vacuum I guess) 

I plan to remove it and get a piece of glass or plexi to check for warping ans sand if needed. 

Question is should the fuel be up that high in the bowl or could it also be my Float valve set incorrectly? 

Just not sure if fuel should be resting at the gasket level.  

[Sniper]

Fuel should not be at the gasket level.  If it is your float is either not floating or way misadusted.

[vintage6t]

One thing that can keep the top plate from mating is the clip that holds the float pin in. Hard to describe but the clip has a tang on each side of its open end. The tangs have to slide all the way down in the channels cast into the carb. If not all the way down the top of the clip will be above the carb bowl lip and will prevent the top plate from seating on the lip. 

Edited June 25, 2023 by vintage6t

[rcl700]

10 hours ago, Sniper said:

Fuel should not be at the gasket level.  If it is your float is either not floating or way misadusted.

Thank you. I didn't think so. 

[rcl700]

9 hours ago, vintage6t said:

One thing that can keep the top plate from mating is the clip that holds the float pin in. Hard to describe but the clip has a tang on each side of its open end. The tangs have to slide all the way down in the channels cast into the carb. If not all the way down the top of the clip will be above the carb bowl lip and will prevent the top plate from seating on the lip. 

I will check. It would be nice if that's all it is. Thanks

[Kilgore47]

13 hours ago, Sniper said:

If it is your float is either not floating or way misadusted.

The float may be leaking.  Take it out and check if there is liquid inside it.  Shake it and listen.  Those old brass floats can be repaired.  

[desoto1939]

If the screws that hold the airhorn in place are to long then put a small washer under the head of each screw. I noticed that on some of the screws there are washers and others there are not. this might also help, but check the float level adjustment could be to high and the gas is leaking out via the gasket or the spring to hold the float is missing or not set properly.

 

Rich Hartung

[Sam Buchanan]

I had to replace the float while returning my P15 to road service. I purchased a hollow plastic float from Mike's Carburetor Parts, it works well but it seems Mike's only offers a brass float now (for less $$$'s than I paid).

 

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/carter-ball-ball-brass-float-fl2000

 

 

A heavy float can cause all sorts of carb issues, a new one is an easy repair.

 

 

Edited June 26, 2023 by Sam Buchanan