Will she bust off? ???

[rcl700]

Well I made some headway tonight  on the the 48'. I put in new 00 battery cables and had much better luck with the starter. I got so excited that I decided to start looking for spark. With a spark tester I'm  ot getting spark at the plugs. The coil is hot. I ran a plug wire off the coil through the test light and it is firing. I flicked the points and got a shock on my arm leaning over the fender. So.... I believe the distributor is shorting out. 

I have never been inside a distributor much less changed the poins out so Im as GREEN as they come on this topic. I see wires in the distributor that are bare  so they may be the cause? 

Not sure what is needed now to correct the problem in the distributor as it seems no spark is getting out. The bare wire inside may be the power coming from the coil terminal. I'm not sure that replacing points and condenser will address that wire. 

Oddly I found a set of points and Condenser in the glove box but they are Ford motorcraft boxes. ?? ?

 

I tried to read the serial # from the distributor but I just can't see it without removing. 

 

Ideas? Thought??

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2023 by rcl700

[Sniper]

You aren't likely to feel 6v as a shock, you are likely to feel the coil output though.

 

50 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

see wires in the distributor that are bare  so they may be the cause? 

 

Take a picture, post it here. 

 

50 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

tried to read the serial # from the distributor but I just can't see it without removing. 

 

Take a picture with your phone.

 

50 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

I have never been inside a distributor much less changed the poins out so Im as GREEN as they come on this topic.

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2023 by Sniper

[OUTFXD]

Make sure you have a Fully charged battery, your getting appropriate charge from your generator, and that you have a good starter solenoid. Pro tip if you get a new solenoid,  Order by part number or they will give you a "Updated" part number which will most likely end up being a generic 12v starter solenoid that wont work with your charging system.  (correct part number for a Standard Motor Works 6v pos ground starter solenoid is SS 544A)  I bought four solenoids before getting the correct one.

 

If you worried about getting zapped while working on the distributor,  disconnect the ground.

 

The points and condenser in the glovebox might not mean anything. They can eitherbe for a different vehicle, or they might be "spare" components kept "just in case"

 

Also,  The distributor is fitted into a slot instead of meshing gears together.  If you decide to remove it,  Just take note of the position of the rotor before you do(as sniper would say,  take a picture).  The distributor will only fit correctly or 180 degrees out/

Edited May 7, 2023 by OUTFXD

[rcl700]

3 hours ago, Sniper said:

You aren't likely to feel 6v as a shock, you are likely to feel the coil output though.

 

 

Take a picture, post it here. 

 

 

Take a picture with your phone.

 

 

 

 

I think Keith made these videos for me...

So helpful to have it presented in this manner.

[rcl700]

3 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

Make sure you have a Fully charged battery, your getting appropriate charge from your generator, and that you have a good starter solenoid. Pro tip if you get a new solenoid,  Order by part number or they will give you a "Updated" part number which will most likely end up being a generic 12v starter solenoid that wont work with your charging system.  (correct part number for a Standard Motor Works 6v pos ground starter solenoid is SS 544A)  I bought four solenoids before getting the correct one.

 

If you worried about getting zapped while working on the distributor,  disconnect the ground.

 

The points and condenser in the glovebox might not mean anything. They can eitherbe for a different vehicle, or they might be "spare" components kept "just in case"

 

Also,  The distributor is fitted into a slot instead of meshing gears together.  If you decide to remove it,  Just take note of the position of the rotor before you do(as sniper would say,  take a picture).  The distributor will only fit correctly or 180 degrees out/

Yes I think I'll need to get it out to fully  assess. I need the ground wires inside the distributor. Anyone know if these are generic or part specific? 

 

I can run a new clean wire from the coil to distributor but the videos above mentioned that the inside wires are special due to there flexibility. 

 

[Merle Coggins]

You have stated that you connected your spark tester to the coil and it sparks. This would indicate that the points are working properly. I suspect that your issue is with the cap and/or rotor. The spark isn’t passing through between the cap and rotor connections to get out to the spark plugs.  

[rcl700]

11 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

Make sure you have a Fully charged battery, your getting appropriate charge from your generator, and that you have a good starter solenoid. Pro tip if you get a new solenoid,  Order by part number or they will give you a "Updated" part number which will most likely end up being a generic 12v starter solenoid that wont work with your charging system.  (correct part number for a Standard Motor Works 6v pos ground starter solenoid is SS 544A)  I bought four solenoids before getting the correct one.

 

If you worried about getting zapped while working on the distributor,  disconnect the ground.

 

The points and condenser in the glovebox might not mean anything. They can eitherbe for a different vehicle, or they might be "spare" components kept "just in case"

 

Also,  The distributor is fitted into a slot instead of meshing gears together.  If you decide to remove it,  Just take note of the position of the rotor before you do(as sniper would say,  take a picture).  The distributor will only fit correctly or 180 degrees out/

[rcl700]

8 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

Where do I get replacement ls for the damaged wires circled? 

[Sam Buchanan]

As a short-term fix slip some heat shrink tubing over them.

[rcl700]

5 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

As a short-term fix slip some heat shrink tubing over them.

Well swapped distributor form another 230...

Boom??????

She chooched 

[rcl700]

2 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

Well swapped distributor form another 230...

Boom??????

She chooched 

More info to come. This is sweet...??

Edited May 7, 2023 by rcl700

[rcl700]

 

 

I have a 230 I bought for this project and  I ended up pulling the distributor from it to put in the car. The distributor it different in that the points setup inside is oriented differently. Pics attached. Now I need to fix the original and prob put points on both. 

When looking up ignition parts how do I search by distributor number vs. automobile type. Being these are different and not original to the car how do I get the correct parts?

I also found the car had no vacuum tube hooked up th the distributor and I don't see where it connects on the carberator. I only see what seems to be vacuum going in the firewall for the wipers. 

 

Red distributor ID tag is what was installed silver was removed. 

[Sam Buchanan]

Bottom photo; The vacuum advance line attaches at the square-headed pipe plug on the carb base. A reverse flare fitting goes where the plug is located.

 

But most likely your advance unit is defective due to old age.

Edited May 8, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[rcl700]

9 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Bottom photo; The vacuum advance line attaches at the square-headed pipe plug on the carb base. A reverse flare fitting goes where the plug is located.

 

But most likely your advance unit is defective due to old age.

Thanks for pointing out the plug for vacuum. I need to rebuild this carberator, it leaks from every gasket. 

Does the distributor vacuum advance  get lubrication or something to free it up if inoperable or requires replacing? 

 

[Sam Buchanan]

20 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

Thanks for pointing out the plug for vacuum. I need to rebuild this carberator, it leaks from every gasket. 

Does the distributor vacuum advance  get lubrication or something to free it up if inoperable or requires replacing? 

 

 

Not a way to service the vacuum unit, there is a diaphragm inside that will develop a leak and not hold vacuum. However, there is a spring inside it that can be easily removed, you might see if it has seized. The device can be checked by pulling a vacuum on it (orally or with a pump) to see if the arm moves and stays in position. But if you hear air moving through it the unit is done.

[desoto1939]

The Autolite IGS4207-1 distributor that you have a picture of is the correct dizzy for your car.  I have attached a page from my autolite catalog that shows the dizzy number and then the appropriate Autolite internal parts that you will need. You might also want to consider getting a NOS breaker plate assembly that has all of the internal parts alreay assembled and then you put the new breaker plate into the dizzy.  Keep the old breaker plate it might be able to add the points and condensor and have a spare.

 

 

Rich Hartung

[rcl700]

Update.  Been working on the 230 I have on the stand. Got a fresh paint job today. My plan is to swap this into the 48'

Edited January 16 by rcl700

[rcl700]

[moparfun]

Looks like your having fun and success.

[rcl700]

I'm trying to figure out if I should run this intake pictured. It's in great shape but has a different setup then the stock unit. The exhaust currently on the car has a messed up exhast diverter 

 

This on also has a different carb that was installed. It has a heat tube that goes to the carb vs manual cable. 

The main issue I see is that this carb has no vacume port for wipers. I do see a plug on one of the intake runners that seems like it could be used for vaccume. 

 

I'm not sure what model vehicle this intake / carb setup would have come from or if these type carbs have any benefits over the b&b that came on the p15. 

 

Thoughts, comments,  critiques...?

[FarmerJon]

Engine is looking good!

 

Intake and exhaust all depend on your goals.

It looks like the intake is fairly low profile at the carb flange. I belive that the late '40s early '50s passenger car intakes are fairly tall, for better power in the rpm they are expected to see.  

I would use the tallest intake you have, and might look at making a carb riser. You could add a vacuum port to the riser. It may also pay to compare the plennum and runner diameter, with larger being preferred. 

For the exhaust, you could add a second outlet, or split it entirely. 

 

Carb is a carter BBS, used from the early '50s thru the '70s. I dont see a tag on that one, so it may be hard to match it to a rebuild kit. Also watch for throttle shaft wear causing vacuum leaks, and on some, the throttle shaft can come loose from the throttle lever.

I have one from a '55 230, I plan on trying on my '48, I suspect it will perform slightly better, since its throttle plate and venturi are larger than my stock Ball and Ball. 

I belive that there are electric and manual conversions for the choke.

 

ETA: Carter Ball and Ball D6G1 has 1.245" venturi, 1.562 throttle plate.

Carter BBS 2062s has 1.347" Venturi, 1.688" throttle. 

So right around 8% larger, plus whatever flow was gained by the minor changes made to the internal layout.

 

Passenger car intake I have laying around, off a '53 217, is part number 1120002-24. See how much taller it is, and how the runners are straighter. 

 

Edited January 18 by FarmerJon