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How does one install a crankshaft hub on 48 DeSoto?


Go to solution Solved by MarcDeSoto,

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Posted

I tried oiling my hub and hammering it in with a rubber mallet, but it only goes in so far.  When I try to put the crankshaft bolt in, it is still about an inch away from the threads.  I went to our best hardware store, but the thickest bolts they have are 1".  I think my bolt is 1 1/16", or maybe 1 1/8" in diameter.  I aksed the clerk if he could order a bolt that size and he said no.  Does anyone know a source for a thicker bolt or a right install tool for this engine?  Thanks.  

Posted

You had the hub on before this whole seal escapade started.  The hub has not changed except for the speedi sleeve.  Either you missed the keyway alignment, the key itself has been damaged or the seal is preventing it from going on further.  The speedi sleeve shouldn't cause any problem unless the install ring is hanging it up.  Take the hub back off.  Take the timing cover off and see if the cover will slide over the hub.

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Posted

AACA told me to go back to using a hammer and block of wood.  So I removed the hub and found some slight scoring on the inside of the hub.  I used some 400 sandpaper on it and used some steel wool on the crank.  then I greased the surfaces and used a stronger mallet with a hard plastic head.  Then it started to move in.  I moved it in far enough so that the Jaw could reach the threads inside the crank.  I put a 1 13/16" socket on the jaw and cranked, but I was turning the engine over.  So I had my helper hold the fluid drive ring gear with a ring gear wrench.  So I think it's seated now.  The pulleys looks lined up, so problem is solved.  

Posted
3 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

AACA told me to go back to using a hammer and block of wood.  So I removed the hub and found some slight scoring on the inside of the hub.  I used some 400 sandpaper on it and used some steel wool on the crank.  then I greased the surfaces and used a stronger mallet with a hard plastic head.  Then it started to move in.  I moved it in far enough so that the Jaw could reach the threads inside the crank.  I put a 1 13/16" socket on the jaw and cranked, but I was turning the engine over.  So I had my helper hold the fluid drive ring gear with a ring gear wrench.  So I think it's seated now.  The pulleys looks lined up, so problem is solved.  

See....

The AACA is the forum you need to get the answers quick and direct...not here.

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Posted
6 hours ago, Sniper said:

A hammer is a great way to mess up the thrust bearing.

 

 

 

What other way could I have used?  They don't make install tools for this size hub that I'm aware of.  

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

See....

The AACA is the forum you need to get the answers quick and direct...not here.

If this site is not for helping owners of these cars having problems then what is it for?  

Edited by MarcDeSoto
Posted
20 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

What other way could I have used?  They don't make install tools for this size hub that I'm aware of.  

 

Then you make the tool, or an adapter to allow you to use a hub installer tool. 

Posted

Hub on crank is press fit, threads are 1.125 x 14 tpi, not a stander size. You will not find a bolt that size. Like Sniper says, make adapter for installer.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jerry B said:

Hub on crank is press fit, threads are 1.125 x 14 tpi, not a stander size. You will not find a bolt that size. Like Sniper says, make adapter for installer.

 

You can find that bolt.  It's the same bolt that holds the damper on.  Vintage powerwagons sells them for $7.50.  Cut the head off, thread the center hole to fit your installation tool, maybe a slot across the end for removal, done.

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