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Posted

Can anyone tell me the torque for the castle nut on a front axle spindle? Car is a 37’ Plymouth coupe. 
When I took it off it was nearly hand tight. . Can’t seem to find it anywhere in the manual or the forums. 

Posted (edited)

You don't torque this nut, hand tight then check wheel movement, bit more or bit less depending on bearing play.

 

You dont want to crush the bearing but you dont want it loose either.

 

Hence the reason for the castle nut and split pin

Edited by maok
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, maok said:

You don't torque this nut, hand tight then check wheel movement, bit more or bit less depending on bearing play.

 

You dont want to crush the bearing but you dont want it loose either.

 

Hence the reason for the castle nut and split pin

 

Yep, It's not a torque, it's a process.  Here is a link to an article on the procedure written by the experts, Timken.  Not specific to Mopar, but an excellent guide usable on all tapered roller bearings.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwizo627ufv5AhUhtYQIHZAOB5YQFnoECAwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.timken.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F10%2F5556_Bearing-Setting-Brochure-1.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2FtXr1RgEcOOCcBuycgmYH

Edited by kencombs
Posted

If i remember correctly the only time i found a torque spec. was for my 64 Plymouth. It was 90 INCH POUNDS.

But i still check for rotation and movement /wiggle top to bottom.

Posted
4 hours ago, Frank Gooz said:

If i remember correctly the only time i found a torque spec. was for my 64 Plymouth. It was 90 INCH POUNDS.

 

Yes, it was

(1)Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel.
(2) Position the nut lock (Fig. 4) on the nut with one pair of slots in line with the cotter pin hole.
(3) Back off adjusting nut and lock assembly one slot and install the cotter pin. The resulting adjustment should be zero (no preload) to .003 inch end play
.
(4) Clean the grease cap, coat the inside with wheel bearing lubricant (do not fill) and install the cap.
(5)Install the wheel covers and lower the vehicle to the floor.

 

Same as my 65 Cuda, which is a little more precise than the Timken method in that it specifies a torque setting rather than a feeling for a slight bind per Timken, other than that they are pretty much the same.

Posted

Excellent! Thanks for all the input here. My first “classic” was a 64 Plymouth as well. Barracuda with push button tranny. . I love all cars but Mopars always seem to fall into my lap  :) 

Posted
14 hours ago, Desert Rat said:

My first “classic” was a 64 Plymouth as well. Barracuda with push button tranny.

64 was the first year of the Barracuda and the only year that had the Push-button tranny. I had the 65 Barracuda with Auto tranny and the shift lever was on the floor. It was the best car I ever owned except for my 1990 Dodge Dakota

Posted

Yep, 65 was a one year only arrangement.  still had the cable shift but connected to a 'traditional' lever.  My Dad bought a new 65 Fury III with27383 and auto.  I had a 65 Dart 273/4bbl/4spd.  great cars, but both needed rings before the 50k engine warranty expired.   Mopar covered it though.

Posted

My 65 bacaruda was the 225 slant 6 auto. I use to get 26-28 mpg. I sold her with over 100k on the clock and no problems except rust, which is why I sold her.

Posted

Dorman 04991 castle nut helps you "fine tune" the wheel bearing preload. This was previously suggested by Sniper. I had to narrow down the nut slightly for it to work properly to get the cotter pin through.

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