Crank Pulley Nut

[SSGRHYMER]

I wanted to check my Timing chain gears. when I went to remove the Nut. I found one I never seen before.

The engine is from Europe and the engine is 1948 T37.

The Nut is smaller than 1 13/16.  Could anyone identify this nut?

Would you think that it would be a problem to put the standard nut and lock washer back on?

Thanks

Curt

[Bryan]

Looks like it is for an old type hand crank.   The standard one would not hurt. 

[wallytoo]

59 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Looks like it is for an old type hand crank.   The standard one would not hurt. 

 

the trucks had this.  normally the “nut” size was larger than the jaw size, allowing a socket to slip over.

 

 

i would guess that using a different combo would be fine.

[Bryan]

 The nut on mine was turned so the points interfered with getting a socket on the outer smaller bolts around it. Seems other vehicles have fewer.

[wallytoo]

the cars were different from the trucks as far as the crank pulley and bolt.  no bolts around pulley face.

 

[SSGRHYMER]

Thanks everyone

Dodge Military had a Crank nut for the crank handle. The standard ones like in the pictures above still is not the one on my engine.

Strange, could it be homemade? The Nut is about 42mm. really puzzled about it. The engine runs great but the pulley needs replaced.

I hope I can get this thing off. Thanks for all the advice

Curt

[Bryan]

3 hours ago, wallytoo said:

the cars were different from the trucks as far as the crank pulley and bolt.  no bolts around pulley face.

 

Sorry, sometimes I look at a post and forget it's not a car.  

 

[Bryan]

8 minutes ago, SSGRHYMER said:

Thanks everyone

Dodge Military had a Crank nut for the crank handle. The standard ones like in the pictures above still is not the one on my engine.

Strange, could it be homemade? The Nut is about 42mm. really puzzled about it. The engine runs great but the pulley needs replaced.

I hope I can get this thing off. Thanks for all the advice

Curt

If you had to you could use a grinder to cut the top ball looking part off the nut, then clean up the nut for a socket. With that part being wider than the nut, the only other way would be an open end wrench.  And I'm here to tell you, I bent a 1/2 drive end on a 36" breaker bar trying to get mine off. Also bent a rod trying to brace the crank to keep it from turning.  Finally got mine off with a Dewalt impact wrench with 750 ft/lbs torque.  Easily.  Yours might come off easier.

[Dodgeb4ya]

That crank bolt looks like it has at least one or more flats out at the end...a big 24" or bigger pipe wrench will easily remove it...just jam the flywheel from turning.

 

[Los_Control]

Thats a slippery slope .... next thing you know you are in a rabbit hole with bent rods as @Bryan found.

Dealing with bolts 70 years old, you kinda want to give them every chance you can to remove as easily as possible.

 

My current project today is removing fenders or the bed ... just cut them off or drill them out ... does not matter.

 

Removing that crank bolt again as @Bryanfound out .... the rat a tat tat from a rattle gun loosened it and removed it.

 

You can block the engine from turning and use a 10' pole on a breaker bar .... something will move. Just might not be what you want to move.

 

The Rat a tat tat from a impact wrench is your friend here, it will with impact break the nut loose and not damage the rest of the engine.

If you do not own one. just think about the cost of replacing rods & the price of the tool, then how many places you will use the tool again.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Why will the rods bend removing the crank bolt?

I've removed at least a couple hundred and never damaged the crank rods or bolt.

Impact is good for those who have enough air and a good quality gun.

[wallytoo]

21 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Why will the rods bend removing the crank bolt?

I've removed at least a couple hundred and never damaged the crank rods or bolt.

Impact is good for those who have enough air and a good quality gun.

 

i know, right?  there isn't anyone strong enough to bend a rod just by attempting to remove a crank pulley bolt on one of these.  not even with a 2-foot cheater bar.

[DJ194950]

If the motor can be rotated by hand, even with pry bars the I say find, buy a wrench to ft the nut side and get your biggest hammer out and take that damn nut off.

 

Yes I can be a cave man when required and worked on many large pieces of equipment in the past and we did what was necessary to get a job done!  ?

 

DJ

[Los_Control]

Just now, Dodgeb4ya said:

Why will the rods bend removing the crank bolt?

With a stuck engine, & or you add wood blocks to keep the engine from turning .... You add a breaker bar to loosen the nut

 

Just now, Dodgeb4ya said:

've removed at least a couple hundred and never damaged the crank rods or bolt.

I get it .... I always thought these threads were voodoo .... I think @Bryan bought the right tool and who cares. I do.

 

Yeah they blocked the pistons with a block of wood & now they have a bent push rod.

So whatever you do with your hundreds of  removing the nut, yeah time is catching up with 70 year old nuts.

[kencombs]

IF, big if, there is room for a good pipe wrench and bigger hammer that will loosen it.  Just adjust the wrench for a good fit and give its handle a swat with a 2-4lb hammer. 

 

The original 'impact' wrench

 

Then, remove with slip joint pliers if it won't turn by hand.

 

I even removed the fan clutch from my F150 that way, (wrench, but not pipe variety),  and they are supposedly impossible to remove without a holding tool. 

[Bryan]

If he does something stupid like I did, putting a block of wood in the cylinder with the head tacked back on to keep the engine from turning.  That bent a rod.  I did that because the motor mount kept flexing and blocking the damper didn't work.  Good that some have had a couple of hundred successes.   If you have to block the flywheel do it with a piece of wood (something that won't damage the teeth if it slips).  I did the 36" bar, the whacking it, heating with a torch, etc.  The impact gun got it off with the first try. 

[wallytoo]

what were you turning the crank with when the wood was in the cylinder?

[Bryan]

15 minutes ago, wallytoo said:

what were you turning the crank with when the wood was in the cylinder?

A large socket attached to a 36" breaker bar with about a 2 ft pipe on the end of that. Would not budge.

[Bryan]

Bent a 1/2" drive end also.   In some cases it's just stubborn.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I used different ways to stop the flywheel from turning....a tapered block of hard wood wedged against the housing and ring gear.

I also have/had a tool I made out of steel the has two steel jaws that lock into the flywheel ring gear and the opposite site wedges against the bell housing.

When the pan is off a block of wood between a counter weight and block.

Sometimes leave the car in third with the good working E-brake on.

3/4" drive ratchet ...1/2" drive...naw.

Air tools make it so much quicker.

I'm retired but still seem to be doing these jobs on and off.

Honda and Lexus crank bolts are way tighter than these flat head MoPars.

Impact or the crank pulley holding tools to remove the bolts the factory way.?

 

 

[SSGRHYMER]

Thanks everyone

wow, Sounds like I am in for heavy work.

Do you think that nut is from a car or truck?

I looks like the nut was welded to another one to fit. 

Could my crank be from a car and the PO mad an adapter?

Would a car crank fit in the truck flathead 6? I thought they would be the same.

 

[Los_Control]

Wheeeel years ago in a land far away, I had a crankshaft nut welded to the crank. Was a rusted up body with a $300 engine in it .... Who cared?

 

Just suggesting it is not impossible, just not likely.

15 minutes ago, SSGRHYMER said:

looks like the nut was welded to another one to fit. 

 

[SSGRHYMER]

I also thought maybe the truck had a car replacement crank and the PO welded the Crank Jaw nut to a smaller one to make it fit.

Is that possible?

 

[JBNeal]

On 5/15/2022 at 3:36 AM, SSGRHYMER said:

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IMO that truck crank jaw bolt may have been damaged or stripped, and it was welded to a hex head bolt that fit into the crankshaft...kinda looks like a flat washer to keep the crank pulley hub seated.  The original crank jaw bolt would have a cavity that could accept the crank handle by a couple of inches for the crank handle pin to engage the crank jaws properly.

 

On 5/15/2022 at 6:31 AM, wallytoo said:

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If ya look at the crank pulley on this truck engine, the crank jaw bolt seats flush to the hub and is not proud of the hub like the modified bolt.

additional information - flathead hand cranking

[SSGRHYMER]

On 5/15/2022 at 10:28 PM, Bryan said:

Sorry, sometimes I look at a post and forget it's not a car.  

 

Bryan What is the difference in Cars and Truck with pulley and nut?