Run check of engine - Question

[Bryan]

I know it's early, but got to thinking too much. When I do get the motor back and running ->  How does one go about checking the rear oil galley plug and rear core plugs for leaking if you have to install the bell housing (with flywheel & welded on Fluid Drive) to get the engine started?   I know I don't want to install all the side metal, fenders and hood before I run the engine several times (20-30 minutes at a time) letting it idle, revving it slightly, warm up, etc. 

[kencombs]

Almost impossible!   Just do a really good job of installing and have faith. Clean all mating surfaces and threads, use the proper sealers and tools.

[James_Douglas]

After my painful experience with the 1949 Desoto engine, I plan on pressure testing any flathead I am going to rebuild. I plan on pressure testing BOTH the water jackets and the oil gallery.

 

The 1949 Desoto engine was pumping oil into water jacket. It took a year to figure out what was going on as it was a slow leak. The oil ended up in the top of the cylinder head, as oil floats on top of water, and then then the oil caused the heat to overheat and crack.

 

If you look at a cross section of the blocks there is only about 1/4 inch or so between the oil gallery and the floor of the cooling jacket between the cylinders. Age and rust down there can lead to porosity issues and the 40 PSI oil pressure can push through it.

 

I had an old drag racer I know suggest that I may want to use a very thin, like 1/4 inch, layer of the stuff that is used in drag race engines to stiffen the blocks. It is some kind of pour-able two part epoxy that the pour down into the jacket. His thought was that it would seal and porosity that may be down there. But the block would have to be cleaned and then acid dipped to get the rust out for that to work. Probably easier to test 3 or 4 blocks until one passes a 75 PSI oil test and a 20 PSI water test.

 

James

[FarmerJon]

Not sure if it would work with these engines, since the oil pump is gear driven, but I always use a drill to run the pump to push oil through the system on new engines while they are still on the stand. Helps find leaks and gets everything pre lubricated.

[Bryan]

1 hour ago, James_Douglas said:

After my painful experience with the 1949 Desoto engine, I plan on pressure testing any flathead I am going to rebuild. I plan on pressure testing BOTH the water jackets and the oil gallery.

 

The 1949 Desoto engine was pumping oil into water jacket. It took a year to figure out what was going on as it was a slow leak. The oil ended up in the top of the cylinder head, as oil floats on top of water, and then then the oil caused the head to overheat and crack, until one passes a 75 PSI oil test and a 20 PSI water test.

 

James

When I pulled my core plugs, especially the rear one, the sand was darkish. Others were saying that was normal. But I'm more worried about the rear core plug and oil galley plug. How would you pressure test the oil galley given all the mains & cam openings? Maybe clamp a bearing half with a thin piece of rubber on each one?

[allbizz49]

Just make sure they're installed correctly and run it. 

[DJK]

Do your engine a favor and google "proper engine break in procedure", your engine will thank you for it. It kills me when I watch a video of guys running engines with no radiator/coolant in them. 

[Bryan]

25 minutes ago, DJK said:

Do your engine a favor and google "proper engine break in procedure", your engine will thank you for it. It kills me when I watch a video of guys running engines with no radiator/coolant in them. 

Oh no..I'd mount the radiator support and radiator full of coolant.  I'd probably be running it stationary for a few weeks while I put the front end back together. But not just letting it sit and idle.   Probably let it idle and warm completely up, then I'd sit in the car (with garage door open and a fan) and run it at different RPMs. Then run it up the long driveway and back if I got brakes & rear end finished.

[keithb7]

You just ruined my day! Lol. I have noticed a small oil leak at the engine rear. Hadn't figured out where it was coming from yet.  Your comment just rang my bell. The rear oil galley plug.  Darn it. I bet that's it. It's coming from LH area of bell housing. Engine probably has to come back out. Perhaps I'll pull the tranny and flywheel. Perhaps I could access it then. Hmm.  Next winter's project? ?

Edited February 15, 2022 by keithb7

[Bryan]

22 hours ago, keithb7 said:

You just ruined my day! Lol. I have noticed a small oil leak at the engine rear. Hadn't figured out where it was coming from yet.  Your comment just rang my bell. The rear oil galley plug.  

Was wondering what you used to seal the plug?  I was thinking of yellow teflon tape.  I also have the gas tank sealant someone had recommended for the bellhousing/trans surface (in addition to the gasket). Going to use something since I had to re-do the threads.

[keithb7]

I used permatex pipe thread sealer. Maybe I missed this one at the rear? Distracted maybe? It happens. Unsure. I gotta way deep now to address it! I found the yellow tape, usually used for natural gas lines, a little too thick.

Edited February 16, 2022 by keithb7

[Booger]

Yellow T tape AND pipe goo on fuel or oil related. Thats my take.

 

[Booger]

If your garage floors are spotless

you rock. Mine arent and never have been.

[keithb7]

2 hours ago, Booger said:

If your garage floors are spotless

you rock. Mine arent and never have been.

I am seeing that here too. Pretty hard to stop any oil drips it seems!

[Booger]

Just replaced oil pan gasket, rear main seal and tran shaft seal.

Yaaa! No wait! Fuel and oil pumps still drip, reading related link to oil pump alien gasket has me freaked out. (sigh)