Weekend work

[Sniper]

Not the kind that can be taxed, lol.

 

Got my uprights back from the machine shop Wednesday.  Had them fit new kingpins and drill/tap the holes for the Rusty Hope disc swap.

 

I have new shocks and tierods to install. 

 

Old shocks were original, I believe, but the rubber bushings are falling apart.  Going to see how well my measure the old ones and fine something new that will work trick works out.   

 

Tie rod ends, well since I am already there may as well.  For some reason one of the outer tierod ends seems to be not as available and those that have them want stupid money for them.  I can't figure why the two outers have different part numbers from each other.  I am used to seeing the outers with one part number and the inners with another.  In this case there are two outer part numbers and one inner part number.  So I measured things and found a source that looks like it will work, we shall see.   

 

I'll post updates here on fitment and how the disc swap goes.

Edited November 5, 2021 by Sniper
I can't spell

[OUTFXD]

Very nice! Post some pics if you can!  I would love to do a front disk swap on Jacquiline,  One of my three Safety upgrades.  (15 mile per hour Bumper "shocks", three point seat belts, Disk Breaks) .  But that is waaaaay down the line. She has all new drums on all four and I can lock up the tires on Dry pavement.

 

[keithb7]

Sorry. Realized I was highjacking a thread.  Carry on Sniper. 

 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2021 by keithb7

[desoto1939]

Sniper:  i did some looking in my Toledo Steel catalog and I have posted a copy of the page with the Tierod ends  The numbers are ES60 and ES131.  These are very common tierod ends.

And from the listing 1946-54 all used the same tierod ends.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

 

 

[chrysler1941]

According to Mitchell's, these same tie rods will also fit 1941-42

[Sniper]

Factory parts book shows

The inner as part number 951302

The outer on the long rod (pass side outer) as part number 951303 (Desoto 37-40 as well)

The outer on the short rod (driver side outer) as part number 951305

For all 40-54 Dodge and Plymouth.  Also for all Chrysler 40-48 and Desoto 40-48 see above for Desoto 37-40.

 

visually, and assuming these are original ends, I can see no difference with the outers.  Haven't gotten to working on them yet, so we shall see.

 

Maybe Rich's aftermarket numbers reflect no real need for two different outers?

 

[Sniper]

Well, fun was had.  Not as much accomplished as I had hoped, getting old is not fun, lol.

 

I mocked up the disc brake kit, had to do some clearancing as the bracket didn't fit the caliper as delivered.  Not sure if it was the caliper or the bracket that was the issue.

 

Here's the part that needed widened.  You can see where I used my belt sander.  Took about an hour to do both as I was trying to sneak up on it. 

[Sniper]

Instructions say to replaces this zerk with a 90 degree one, which will ease servicing int eh future.  True, but it neglects to tell you what size.  It's 1/8" NPT.  If you keep the straight zerk you will have to pull the caliper to grease it.

Edited November 7, 2021 by Sniper

[Bryan]

How much did you have to grind off?

[Sniper]

Had to clean up the spindle as received from the machine shop.  Also needed to draw file the threaded holes as they had burrs.  Ran a tap thru the holes as well.  Didn't have a die for the spindle threads, but I had a nut that did the job.

[Sniper]

Bracket, once clearanced, bolted up to the spindle.  I see why Rusty Hope had you drill out and tap the spindle.  No room between the rotor and spindle for a bolt head or a nut to fit. 

[Sniper]

Rotor installed.  Rusty Hope spacer fitted on the spindle beforehand.  No grease on the bearing as this is a dry fit.  The kit spaces the spindle nut out enough that the cotter pin will not fit the existing hole.  RH's solutions are a bit doubtful to me.  So I just deleted the washer between the nut and the bearing.  You will see I had already updated to a later style spindle nut and retainer solution.  Same application as the rotor donor. 

[Sniper]

Caliper fitted up.  You can see clearly how that 90 zerk is a good idea here as well. 

[Sniper]

Filp side of the setup showing caliper fit.  Yes, I have new cotter pins to go in, just recycling the old one for the dry fit.

[Sniper]

Money shot.  Dropped the assembly into a stock 15" rim, spun it around and everything clears. 

[Sniper]

Here I try to take a shot of the closest spot, maybe a 1/4" or so clearance between the caliper and rim. 

[Sniper]

Machine shop conclusions.  Not impressed with my machine shop.  Parts were dirty, burrs on the holes they threaded, holes in the steering arms were wallered out some.  Heck I could of done that.  However, the king pin job was nice and tight, no slop as there was when I brought it to them.  I should have told them to not assemble it so I could have cleaned and painted things, but I didn't.

 

Rusty Hope kit conclusions, Over all a decent kit.  Not sure why the bracket and caliper had a fitment issue, might of been the calipers at fault.  Be nice if they gave you torque specs for the bolts they included and should have mentioned the 1/8" npt part of the 90 degree zerk recommendation.  Yes, I know I can look the torque spec up, but customer service is the little things.  I think if the bearing spacer wasn't as thick the cotter pin issue wouldn't be there.  I looked to see if there was a seal that fit both the rotor and the stock spindle without an adapter, no dice so far.

 

    

[Sniper]

I didn't get around to the tie rod ends.  My back went on strike, lol.  But I did double check the shock specs.  One thing to see what someone said the specs were and another thing to have them in hand and verify. 

 

The replacement shocks have a bit more extension and a bit less compression height than my stockers.  The stockers are dead, btw, there is a "no resistance" section of travel there.  Th epic below only shows the extended comparison.  I couldn't compress the new ones and take a picture to show the compressed heights.  I did test fit them on the mounting pins, will have to reuse the original shock washers though as the supplied ones are for a 1/2" shaft and my pins are 5/8".  As you can see in the pic, the rubber int he old shocks is pretty bad and this is the good one, lol.  New shocks have some type of urethane so grease and oil won't be affecting it.

[Sniper]

39 minutes ago, Bryan said:

How much did you have to grind off?

 

No idea, maybe .030" off each ear.

[sidevalvepete]

Nice work. Thanks for posting. I think I get more out of seeing work like this where little obstacles are overcome. Relates well to what goes on in my workshop  - whether car related or not. ?

[keithb7]

Seems there is a lack of pride in many trades these days. Many seem to think "Good enough...Let's get this billed."

 

Thanks for sharing this info Sniper. Good for future reference.

[bartenderfloyd]

Great write up and pics.  Good to know for the future. 

Edited November 7, 2021 by bartenderfloyd

[Sniper]

I uploaded the instructions to this site.  Includes parts list.  I did not annotate it though.

 

 

Edited November 7, 2021 by Sniper
added link

[OUTFXD]

Looking sharp man! Good job! Loved your write up!

[Sniper]

Update time.

 

Spent some time cleaning things up in prep for reassembly.  Pulled the tie rod assemblies out so I could clean up the sleeves and install the new tie rod ends I bought.  Turns out my plan for less expensive tie rod ends hit a snag.  The threaded ends are fine, the location of the zerk fittings would have worked.  However, the diameter of the tapered studs was too small and my window for returning them passed, two days ago, lol.  Teach me to slack off.  So I have new tie rod ends coming.  Decided to pull the pitman arm off so I could crape off decades of grease and clean it up, only to decide that I may as well replace the pitman shaft seal.  Would have been nice if I remembered that before I finished my tie rod order, oh well NAPA can get it for me for about the same cost 

 

Cut one coil off the Aerostar springs I installed earlier this year.  Got them back in where they belong.  Bought a Pneumatic cut off tool, but it appears either my compressor can't keep up or the tool is under powered, so I converted an old miter saw into a chop saw and got it done.

 

Found that my oil pan screws were all loose, I suggest this might be a maintenance item added to the oil change check list.  Heck this might even slow up the oil leak I have.

 

Tomorrow, I hope, I start final assembly on the disc brake swap.  I should have all the stuff I need on hand, except the tie rods.  Might reinstall the old ones just dso I can move the car about.