Carter carburetor leaking gas

[Rodney_Hamon]

Just today I got the D-30 engine to start on it’s own with a cleaned gas tank, new lines, new fuel pump, and a cleaned out carburetor. While running I noticed gurgling...leaking of air and gas at the top of the intake gaskets on both sides of the carb against the block. I shut it dn. This had never happened before using gravity flow for gas instead of a fuel pump.  The carb was dry and never had an issue, I thought. I pulled the carb off and the base gasket was dry as was the carburetor. Underneath the carb the intake was wet with gas.  3 days ago I had pulled the carb off and cleaned it but did notice a small puddle of gas that I soaked up with a rag. Didn’t think much of it but should I have?  Is this/has this carburetor all along been leaking dn into my intake manifold?  I did tighten intake manifold bolts as they were somewhat loose along the top row and ends. That surprised me!  Is this double jeopardy for me that the frothing along the top was just a loose manifold?  And, do I need to rebuild my carburetor?  BTW, help me to understand how does a carb internally leak dn? Worn out accelerator pump? Float adjustment?  I will try to read up as much as I can from past/present forum members.  In this picture you can see where the gaskets are darker along the top where the small air bubbles occurred   I look forward to your wisdom on this.  R

[allbizz49]

Check for debris in the needle and seat. Also, What is your float height set at? Might be too high. 

[greg g]

Needle and seat stuck open or float level too high.pull the dipstick and make sure your sump isn't filled with fuel if it smells heavily of gas, you might need to change 5he oil.  How long did you run it like that.

[Booger]

What flavor of Carter is that? thats not a B&B???

[Booger]

Just now, Booger said:

What flavor of Carter is that? thats not a B&B???

Gotta be the float/dirt

[Sam Buchanan]

One more suggestion....once you get the carb working nicely move that fuel fliter away from the exhaust manifold. When the manifold heats up the filter you are likely to see vapor lock problems.

[Rodney_Hamon]

The engine ran for about 4-5 min. I checked the dipstick and it did not smell like gas. Lol, I was reading tech comments and this popped up. I will recheck the float level and needle/seat tomorrow. Thanks for replying 

[Rodney_Hamon]

I shall gingerly move that. It is a b&b.  It’s a DT G1

[Fernando Mendes]

1 hour ago, allbizz49 said:

Check for debris in the needle and seat. Also, What is your float height set at? Might be too high. 

Check the float level.

[rallyace]

Something to ponder, modern gasolines are less dense than the fuels available decades ago. This means that the float level needs to be set lower than what the book says to get the same amount of pressure on the needle valve. I usually set it about 3/32" to 1/8" lower than spec to compensate.

[desoto1939]

Sometimes on the airhorn which is the top piece that has the air cleaner this gets warped on the flat surface that the gasket sits on.  I have seen people put this airhorn on a piece of plate glass to see if there is any gaps.  If there are gasp then they take some emery paper and put this down on the glas and then move the base of the airhorn across the emery paper to get a full contact flat surface.

 

Check this also this is just a suggestion might not be your pbm.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Today I pulled the air horn off and cleaned some more the main body. I found a half plugged main metering jet. The step up piston assembly was a bit sticky and I cleaned that better. The intake check ball was stuck in a gummy seat. Me bad in that. I put a new plunger in as the leather looked dried out and worn on that pump. I had 2 extra older rebuild kits that I could take from. And...I adjusted the float. The needle and seat were clean. Works, runs smoother and is dry!    I have to pull the manifolds as the intake gasket keeps weeping at the top even after tightening. I don’t want to over tighten the nuts.  So thanks everyone for the great advice on the carburetor.   Btw, I sure wish I could just remove the intake manifold and leave the exhaust bolted on but I know it’s impossible especially with those 4 bolts holding both manifolds together. At least it’s easy access, eh

[desoto1939]

rodney:  Suggestion is that when you take the carb apart for a full cleaning and rebuild get serveral cardboard egg catoon ans thne place each part as you take it apart into a seperate hole.  There are two small Ball bearing and they are different sizes can not get them mixed up. Also put the leather accelerator pump in a little light oil to soften the leather.

 

Helpful hints.

 

rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Rodney_Hamon]

Thanks for the hints. I’ll do that as I need to order a rebuild kit from Andy B  along with other stuff.  Pulling the carburetor off 4 times has pushed the limits of the gaskets.  Then I noticed the air horn to main body gasket was a bit damp where it wasn’t before so I need to readjust the float back to where it was. I guess that compensated for my high altitude and expansion of the fuel.  I got the manifolds bolts loose today so I can remove tomorrow.    I am halfway thinking of sending the manifolds off to Guru George to have him fix that botched exhaust manifold.  Last conversation with his son a year ago he said he could.  I just might ask if he can split the intake.   I’m on the fence.