Carter B&B Carburetor Question/Suggestion

[Sam Buchanan]

3 minutes ago, wagoneer said:

 

 

you should check whether you have the original gas tank ; if so, then you don’t need a fuel filter as you have an oil lite filter in the tank that doesn’t it for you.

 

 

If you saw the inside of my original tank you would have a different opinion about filters. 

 

And.......you don't want the cruddy scale from the inside of old rusty fuel lines making it to your pump or carb.

 

We need filtration in these cars.

[wagoneer]

I replaced my fuel lines recently. there are companies that make new oem style fuel lines . Easy to replace.

 

I have a fuel filter because my original tank was replaced . I would love to have an  oil lite filter but it doesn’t seem you can get those anymore save for a few rare NOS fuel tanks .

[knuckleharley]

3 hours ago, wagoneer said:

I replaced my fuel lines recently. there are companies that make new oem style fuel lines . Easy to replace.

 

I have a fuel filter because my original tank was replaced . I would love to have an  oil lite filter but it doesn’t seem you can get those anymore save for a few rare NOS fuel tanks .

Even if I had a NOS gas tank with the original gas filter,I would still prefer a fuel filter I can access under the hood that is easy to replace. Preferably a see-through one.

[normanpitkin]

I took my tank out ,cleaned it ,repaired it and replaced but then put two inline see through filters in ,despite all new lines and spotless tank they still need cleaning about once every 6 months ,I assume the fuel is not 100% clean ,the downside of supermarkets driving down the price of fuel.

[Art Bailey]

On 2/14/2021 at 9:36 AM, bartenderfloyd said:

I just picked up a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe and the first thing I noticed was below the carburetor is pretty wet with fuel.  So much that I don't want to pull it into my garage until that part is sorted out.  The engine runs well.  My experience is with fuel injection so carburetors are new to me.  2 questions.  First, how do I identify the model carburetor?  I see on 1 side the "Carter Ball & Ball" and I see 2 stampings, 6-595 and JO L6H2.  On the other side I see C-660.  Second, should I rebuild it or replace it with an upgraded model not knowing the history of the current carburetor?

 

 

I'm dealing with a leaky BB carb that I'm rebuilding for the second time. I haven't sorted it out yet, but I'm pretty sure it's related to float level height. If you do go to rebuild, you may think, like I did, that the float retainer clip provided in the kit is too tall and the wrong one for your carb, because it sticks up above the top edge of the bowl line. It's not. It's supposed to get crushed down by the top piece, and secure the float in place, otherwise the float will rise too much and not shut off. Don't start snipping it down to fit. Like I did. 

Edited February 15, 2021 by ratbailey

[Art Bailey]

 

https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/carter-bb-1-barrel-troubleshooting/

https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Service_Carter_BB_downdraft_issues.pdf

 

 

Edited February 15, 2021 by ratbailey

[Booger]

On 2/14/2021 at 2:07 PM, Tom Skinner said:

In his post Rallyace makes a good point about setting the float a tad lower than Manual suggests (I think that the manual call out 5/64" from the top of Carb edge).

The other reason may be the needle and seat may be allowing some fuel past after shutting down (That's where gas enters the carb through the Brass Fitting)

Some times that needle is worn or damaged from even tiny rust particles from the gas tank.

I cut new gaskets from stock - its saves on those rebuild Kits. Open the top of the Carb set the float down a little, check your needle and seat.

put in a homemade gasket (I cut mine with an Exacto Knife and hole punch) and if everything looks good tighten those screws and test drive.

You maybe lucky and can put off a Carb rebuild.

Tom

so set float at maybe an 1/8 "?

18 hours ago, wagoneer said:

Diving deep into the technicals, the Chrysler et al engineers thought through cold, and long standing starts.
 

my carb is also frequently wet , and I actually saw gas splash out from what I guess is the accelerator or something . Even so, my car fires up almost instantly. If it’s sitting it requires about 3 seconds with the choke while the gas gets pulled through the line (air leaks in your fuel line also cause problems due to poor vacuum). 
 

I’m scheduling a rebuild regardless.

 

I recently replaced my mechanical fuel pump and that made all the positive difference. I don’t use my electric anymore. I found the electric plus mechanical put too much fuel pressure (>6 psi) do I put an inline regulator .

 

Hard starts have more to do with state of the carb, and your engine timing.

 

you should check whether you have the original gas tank ; if so, then you don’t need a fuel filter as you have an oil lite filter in the tank that doesn’t it for you.

 

one last thought — you should the original drivers manual - they do specify A single pump of the peddle presumably to wet the carb

 

 

[Booger]

1/8 cant be right!!  Mikes carb reccomends float height at 5/32"  5/64? is that those really little lines? $10 for a retainer clip? Im in the wrong business

[Sniper]

Fired up the Plymouth yesterday, in the teens and had been sitting for a week or so.  There is an adjustment for fuel pump shot amount on these carbs.  Mine is set to the middle, or summer, position as most of my driving is in those conditions.  I did have to ump the pedal three times to get it to start but other than that we were good to go.  When gas is cold it is less likely to vaporize so you need more of it in the intake to provide sufficient gas vapor to start.  Had I put the adjustment in the outer, or winter, setting odds are I would not have needed more than one, possibly two pumps.    Granted FI makes these things automatic but its still happening.

 

I forgot to mention that when I got my 51 the carb was leaking like the OP's, a good cleaning and attention to detail when rebuilding it and no more leaks.

Edited February 18, 2021 by Sniper

[wagoneer]

There is something to the density decreasing of gasoline over the last 75 years. You can see that gasoline density (API) has decreased even over the last 30 years -- https://www.epa.gov/fuels-registration-reporting-and-compliance-help/gasoline-properties-over-time#what

I run ethanol-free, but can the cumulative change in formulation due to removing heavier hydrocarbons trickle down to us requiring the floats to be set at 1/8 instead of 5/64? 

 

In principle though, the float is measuring volume of gasoline to aerosolize, so lowering the float depth will decrease volume of gasoline in the float bowl and in the main metering passage, so it's not quite aerosolizing as efficiently if we change the depth to 1/8.

 

 

 

Edited February 19, 2021 by wagoneer

[bartenderfloyd]

Update - I rebuilt the carb and learned a bunch if stuff.  Bottom line is that it doesn't leak anymore and runs real well. First, I want to thank Mike's carburetor for their rebuild kit and video. It made rebuilding my first ever carburetor a breeze. Second, whoever said the screws needed to be tightened wasn't kidding. Barely any effort to remove the carb and take each section apart. I made sure to tighten everything when I put it back together. Third,  whoever saw that the seals were doubled up was right. For some reason there were 2 seals on the float section of the carb. Fourth, the needle o removed  was flat, not pointy like in the rebuild kit.

 

Overall it was an easy job for having no experience with carburetors. Thank you for all your suggestions.  I am going to enjoy working on this car.

[Sniper]

That top gasket in your bottom picture looks wet?  Might want to go back and give those screws, well all of them, a tightening again.  Probable wouldn't hurt to add that to the routine maintenance checklist as well.  Change the oil, tighten the carb screws, lol.

[bartenderfloyd]

57 minutes ago, Sniper said:

That top gasket in your bottom picture looks wet?  Might want to go back and give those screws, well all of them, a tightening again.  Probable wouldn't hurt to add that to the routine maintenance checklist as well.  Change the oil, tighten the carb screws, lol.

I noticed that too.  I thought it may be the silicone I sprayed on the gaskets as it didn't smell like gas.  I'll check back on it tomorrow.