C-1 rear axle shaft and brake drum removal

[WPVT]

My mechanic (a good one), is having difficulty removing one of the rear brake drums on my 1954 1/2 ton. The end of the axle shaft has been damaged, making it difficult to use a puller. He is suggesting a slide hammer, but it occurs to me that this might pull the axle shaft along with the drum. Is this a possibility ?

Thanks.

[Tooljunkie]

If its that stuck, then the nut was previously overtightened. So its really wedged on the taper. The usual method then is cut the whole works off. I have the snap on puller intended for pulling the drums/hubs and sometimes it wont do it. The expense alone for parts for theses rear ends prompted me to graft in a rear end from a 77 dodge 1/2 ton. I can replace everything on that rear end for way less money, and gear sets are easy to come by. 

[WPVT]

I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. Just wondering if using the slide hammer may inadvertently pull the axle shaft or whether that's a safe alternative to the puller.

[kencombs]

Not only is a slide hammer rough on the bearing, it will produce less force than the correct puller. Does he have the correct puller?  That is the first requirement.   I've had good luck using the puller.  Tighten it well, use the hammer on the bar, at least a 3 lb'er, 4 is better.  Then use an air hammer on the outside of the hub, driving toward the center.  The rapid hammering action seems to help the taper to release its' grip.  Tap the bar with the hammer,  tap-a-tap with the air hammer, repeat. 

[kencombs]

1 minute ago, kencombs said:

Not only is a slide hammer rough on the bearing, it will produce less force than the correct puller. Does he have the correct puller?  That is the first requirement.   I've had good luck using the puller.  Tighten it well, use the hammer on the bar, at least a 3 lb'er, 4 is better.  Then use an air hammer on the outside of the hub, driving toward the center.  The rapid hammering action seems to help the taper to release its' grip.  Tap the bar with the hammer,  tap-a-tap with the air hammer, repeat. 

Quoting my own post 'cause I can't find the edit button!

Heat is a last resort for me, unless I have a new seal on hand. 

I'm not clear on what could be wrong that makes it hard to use a puller.  But if the end of the axle has been deformed by hammering, I'd use a 4" grinder to flatten it first.

[bkahler]

17 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Quoting my own post 'cause I can't find the edit button!

 

 

The edit button is behind the three ... in the upper right corner of your post.

 

[WPVT]

We've decided against using the slide hammer to avoid creating other problems.

Somehow, a previous owner created a concave recess in the center of the shaft, possibly by using a puller with too small an end and forcing it into the axle shaft end. In any event, we have enough length on the axle shaft to cut it off, creating a new flat surface for the correct puller to bear against. This will still leave enough threaded material to use the nut and re-bore a cotter pin hole. Fingers crossed that the drum will pop off if we follow the usual procedure. 

[Merle Coggins]

There SHOULD be a dimple in the end of the axle shaft. This dimple helps to center the puller. And as mentioned, be sure they are using the correct type of puller. It should attach to the lugs and press against the end of the shaft, with a point on the end of the puller bolt that centers into the afore mentioned dimple. I recommend leaving the nut on loose to catch the drum when it pops loose. Otherwise everything will go flying across the shop. 

 

 

[WPVT]

Yes, this "dimple" had been enlarged and mutilated by a previous owner. We filled it in with a weld, and then were able to use the puller. The drum is now off.

Thanks to everyone for sound advice.

[Dodgeb4ya]

File grind perfectly flat the end of the damaged axle. Drill a tiny centeting oil in the end of the axle as originally designed.

Use a good heavy duty non Chinese hub/drum puller.

Puller screw has to be perfectly straight  in line with the axle shaft.

Even five degree's angled off you loose 20% or more of pulling force.

Once puller is mounted correctly use a heavy hammer as above 3-4 lb'er.

Now is the part most fail at.

You better know how to swing that hammer accurately and HARD...REALLY HARD!

Sometimes 20-40 times.

The drum will come loose with a big pop. Normally you leave the loosened axle nut on to prevent the drum from popping loose and falling on the floor. In your case you can't. On those situations I just adjust the brake shoes tight against the drum.

Use NO HEAT. It's not necessary and could cause the hub and drum to warp with the puller tension on the hub.

The main problem with these tapered hub drums is people use a wimpy or incorrect puller...don't align the puller correctly to the hub...don't use a heavy enough puller...don't hit the dog bone hard, accurately and mean enough.

The puller screw threads must be in good condition and well oiled.

Most lighter duty pullers you can use the dog bone to hit and also pull it off and use a high torque impact gun with a 1-1/8" impact socket to help tighten the puller screw.

You need at least a 3/8" air hose and at least 160lbs air pressure.

The "real heavy duty" three to five leg old Snap-on pullers don't have a removable dog bone. Hammer force only.

Never had a drum I couldn't remove using only a hub puller.

Get'er done!

Edited September 24, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya

[Plymouthy Adams]

I normally place a piece of aluminum between the pullers screw and the axle/nut while putting the nut on backward for the best level playing field one can get...the aluminum will transfer the shock and if a slight bit off will dimple to correct and allow full force transfer....I have a inexpensive but very well made puller and it has not let me down at all...at all costs...refrain from hitting the screw dead on the end....always strike the anvil of the dog bone...