oil pan gaskets

[belvedere]

It is well known that the oil pan end gaskets will stick up above the pan surface and should not be trimmed.  However, the FSM  says they should stick up about 1/8".  Mine (Felpro) stick up more than 5/16" above the surface, which is well over 1/8".  So in this case, should they be trimmed to match what the FSM says?

[DJ194950]

Not sure but many say and have said no trimming period!

 

I screwed mine up years ago and trimmed - added  alot of sealer to the ends added. It Leaks! ?

 

DJ

[JBNeal]

Do not trim but do massage the cork down into the channel arc towards its lowest point from both ends...I did that on the last rebuild and it seemed to help on install, didn't leak a drop from them areas either

[JeffR]

Greetings to all.  I just received my new gaskets for my 48 B-1-B pickup.   There was a strong drip leak midway on the oil pump side of the oil pan.  Will the new gaskets need any pretreatment before I install??  An oil rub or some gasket pretreat?? The new ones are the Felpro cork appearing gaskets.  

[1949 Wraith]

I just installed some FelPro gaskets on my '42 WC. I used a little gasket sealer on the pan side and clean and dry on the block side. So far so good.

[rallyace]

I set one side 1/8" proud and then make sure the gasket it is fully seated and carefully trim the other side to about 5/16" proud. Apply sealer at the intersections of the pan gaskets and install the pan. I have neever had a leak and it makes installing the pan a lot easier, especially if the engine is in the car. One other trick to installing the pan with the engine in the car is to use four longer bolts in the thru tapped holes near the corners to hold the pan in place and keep the side gaskets aligned. Tighten these bolts until the pan is just about to make contact with the block and then install the remainder of the proper pan bolts.  Replace the long bolts with the proper bolts and then go through the tightening and torquing sequence. The things you learn while laying under a car and wrestling with an oil pan.

[Andydodge]

When I replaced the rear seal on the 41 Plymouth I obtained some all thread and cut some pieces about an inch long with a slot cut into one end, screwed them into the block pan rail, 2 on each side then used them to help align the pan and used some nuts to tighten the pan up against the gasket which I'd glued onto the block pan rail with contact cement, I used a Best Brand gasket as I had a full Best Brand set originally to be used on the 230 I was building and from memory it sat about 1/4 inch proud......engine didn't appear to leak from anywhere on the oil pan afterwards tho' the rear main still had a slight weep..........andyd     

[Hamilton]

Fold the tag over and run a straight pin through it, into the end of the vertical piece.  The pins, which there's no need to remove, hold the sections of gasket together while you get the pan in place. 

Edited November 14, 2020 by Hamilton
typo

[48ply1stcar]

On 11/12/2020 at 9:35 AM, JeffR said:

Greetings to all.  I just received my new gaskets for my 48 B-1-B pickup.   There was a strong drip leak midway on the oil pump side of the oil pan.  Will the new gaskets need any pretreatment before I install??  An oil rub or some gasket pretreat?? The new ones are the Felpro cork appearing gaskets.  

Make sure that your oil pan surface is flat and does not have raised areas around the bolt holes from over tighting.

 

[Dennis]

Sarg,

Did you finish installing the oil pan?  We are about to install an oil pan with a Filpro gasket in a Plymouth P23 engine.  How did you make out?  Any tip?

Dennis

[JeffR]

I have been having problems getting the old oil pan off.  I took out all the bolts and is wouldn't budge.  Not really sure what to do next.  I don't want to bang on it too hard and bend it.

[kencombs]

Putty knife is a great tool for breaking the gasket seal.  Or, a painters 5 in 1 tool.  Just place it on the edge of the cork gasket and apply a hammer, carefully. 

[JBNeal]

I have an old Lisle gasket scraper that I use, starting at a corner towards the main belt pulley, setting the edge flat on the flange and bopping the handle with my fist or a heavy ratchet handle...the thick gaskets that are set up into the block cavities have to be worked out carefully...a trick I learned was to put longer bolts at the 4 corners of the oil pan, upwards of 2" and only threaded in a bolt diameter, so that when the oil pan finally lets go, them longer bolts catch the pan...these longer bolts also can be used as pilots for oil pan installation and replaced with the correct bolts before final torque