Matfirstattempt Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 When I first got my truck, I did a lovely deep clean of the interior knowing I had to tackle the engine bay. Like my exercise routine, I put it off and now am going to do a minor tune up and a few major items as well from the shop manual on the engine. There’s grease, lots of it. So, what’s the best way to tackle it? A hose to spray the main stuff off but then degreaser? Some say oven cleaner but is that too harsh? Some claim simple green is good. I don’t want to pull the engine or parts - I just want to clean it, linkages, trans, etc as best I can, find the leaks that caused the gunk, fix it, and get it reliable. Then, when I go to tackle a system, I’m not working through a thick layer of sludge to do it. So, how do you go about tackling an engine that’s not been cleaned for likely 3-7 decades? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 There are commercial engine degreasers sold at your local parts stores. Gunk is one brand that has something like this. They all pretty much work the same. Get the engine warmed up, spray the degreaser, let it break down the grease, hose it off... lather, rinse, repeat... until it’s squeaky clean. Just be cautious of getting your distributor or generator too wet. They’ll tolerate a little water, but I woulnd’t want to give them a direct spray with water. Once you’re all done you’ll need to relube the distributor and generator oil cups to displace any water that got in there. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 personally I like to scrape it off carefully....you can do it in sections this way neatly and the chunks are easy to clean up than diluted slime balls of gunk. I then like to follow up with a kerosene/diesel fuel wash again doing section and not lose controlby trying to do all at once...I prefer kerosene over diesel but use what you comfortable with. Both do a good job of the last of the residue and leave the surface protected. Once it is clean all over...then consider the last soap bath with cleanser of choice and wash down, this time you can do it all or again in sections. At this state you will want to dry it well as it will flash rust. Your methods and choice of coating is next. Quote
Matfirstattempt Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Posted June 21, 2020 @Plymouthy Adams - what’s your preferred way to protect? @Merle Coggins - you’re a wealth of knowledge my friend! I’ll check the shop manual for The oil cups. ill do this after I charge the oil and rinse the oil sock and air filter. Those seem like they’ll be messy... off topic but: any spark plugs to NOT use? My local parts dealer had ACDELCO plugs. I never gave a thought to plugs, until now. Suggestions? Quote
Boody Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 I have used foaming oven cleaner . Spray in on let it sit for a while scrub and rinse. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) I usually use Autolite plugs in my truck. I’m a big fan of NGK too. That’s all I use in my motorcycles. I would stay away from Champions. I’ve heard too many bad reviews on them. Edited June 21, 2020 by Merle Coggins Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) ABC...where I normally use this to state in preference to cars....ANYTHING BUT CHEVY when it come to the sparkers....it can easily apply as ABC ANYTHING BUT CHAMPIONS at one time the Champion were great reliable products...about the end of the 60's and start of the 70's champion plugs hit an all time poor reliability rate personally experienced at the shop I was employed at the time. Never been a fan since and went to Autolite (Motorcraft was assuming the name about then also) I prefer Autolite and as Merle says, if offshore name is not an issue....NGK provides some great plugs. Never been a Bosch fan stay away from snake oil components of one maybe two sizes fits all..these are thread rippers especially in aluminum heads....these old cars are not the bother to access and change so if you do go with a Champion carry a spare or three...you will more than not need them. Edited June 21, 2020 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Young Ed Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 I'll say I've got 26k miles all my two flatheads all with champion spark plugs. So it's like oil pick what you like Quote
JBNeal Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 additional information - flathead technical information Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 25 minutes ago, Young Ed said: I'll say I've got 26k miles all my two flatheads all with champion spark plugs. So it's like oil pick what you like this is why I listed the era that I EXPERIENCED firsthand when things went south for Champion and the very WHY behind the reluctance to purchase them today.....who knows...they may be the best on the market...but bad experiences are hard to forget....I find so few examples of a divorced couples remarrying...it happens, but usually not pretty second time either....trust is gone...! Quote
Tooljunkie Posted June 22, 2020 Report Posted June 22, 2020 A scraper for the thick stuff. simple green straight up and a bristle brush to loosen the crud and a hosing off. i would use NGK (no good kind) long before i ever screw in a champion spark plug again. they were ok until 3 or so years ago, they went for **** and caused me grief more than once. i have a small repair shop and sell a fair amount of spark plugs, will never sell another champion. Quote
1949 Wraith Posted June 22, 2020 Report Posted June 22, 2020 I would rather have grease all over. It's more likely king pins, ball joints and suspension at least saw some life saving mantenance once in a while. Scraper, wire or stiff bristle brush with a solvent of your choice and lots of rags. Quote
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