DJK Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 Just thinking, I'm 65 and don't do well rolling around on a creeper, would it be easier to remove engine as opposed to doing it in vehicle? Quote
Sniper Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 I am thinking on pulling the engine out of my 51 for a reseal as well. The service manual is surprisingly empty on how to do that. I do plan to clean the engine compartment while I have it out. It's not bad, but still. Quote
kencombs Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 If you're planning on the rear crank seal, I'd pull it. Front seal or pan gasket it would depend on the chassis. Pickup is not bad, most cars are tough. Quote
keithb7 Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) Rear seal is challenging. Likely unable to access upper seal half mounting bolts. They are between flywheel and block. If tranny was out. Clutch off. Flywheel off. However to get flywheel off, bell housing has to come off. To get bell housing off....On and on it goes. Pulling the engine is my vote too. Edited January 8, 2020 by keithb7 Quote
DJK Posted January 8, 2020 Author Report Posted January 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Sniper said: I am thinking on pulling the engine out of my 51 for a reseal as well. The service manual is surprisingly empty on how to do that. I do plan to clean the engine compartment while I have it out. It's not bad, but still. Just got the 46-54 service manual today, you are correct, not a lot of removal details. It will be easier to do out of the car for sure and like you mentioned, cleaning the eng. compartment also. Quote
DJK Posted January 8, 2020 Author Report Posted January 8, 2020 1 hour ago, keithb7 said: Rear seal is challenging. Likely unable to access upper seal half mounting bolts. They are between flywheel and block. If tranny was out. Clutch off. Flywheel off. However to get flywheel off, bell housing has to come off. To get bell housing off....On and on it goes. Pulling the engine is my vote too. I agree, I'm already planning on clutch anyway. Which main seal is preferred, rope, 2 piece rubber or 1 piece rubber? Quote
DJK Posted January 8, 2020 Author Report Posted January 8, 2020 1 hour ago, kencombs said: If you're planning on the rear crank seal, I'd pull it. Front seal or pan gasket it would depend on the chassis. Pickup is not bad, most cars are tough. I agree. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 25 minutes ago, DJK said: Which main seal is preferred, rope, 2 piece rubber or 1 piece rubber? I am not an expert on this but it might depend on which type of seal is in there right now . I don't think that they are all interchangeable . Quote
Andydodge Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 The 41 Plymouth Coup I had was supposed to have a rope seal.......I had a full Best brand gasket set that included the 2 piece neoprene seal plus both types of side or "ear" seals or gaskets as I call them.........I ordered a rope seal and when I dropped the sump and rear main cap I found it had a 2 piece neoprene seal BUT NO side seals or gaskets........lol........hey, it was only about a 1/ 64th gap between the block and sides of the rear main cap..........lol.........so I picked the pair of side seals that looked the prettiest and installed them............still marked its spot when the mood took it but no where near the amount ............so my suggestion is to pull it apart then decide on the course of action...........and when I sold the car, the new owner got the gasket set, plus a rope seal as well.............lol.............and BTW......I don't think a one piece rear main seal has ever been used on the mopar sidevalve engines.........there is a large flange on the crank and I don't see how a one piece seal could even fit..........but I could be wrong........lol...........andyd Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) The one piece rear main seal is used on mopar side valve engines. Chrysler straight eights and 25" truck engines used them. There is a late 50's truck service bulletin introducing this one piece truck seal to replace the two piece seal. The one piece rubber/ steel reseal has a split/ cut. Basically to install it open the split enough to slide over the crank..it will close back up once over the crank...install the main cap. Edited January 8, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 Dodgeb4ya...........thank you for the info, pic and details.......not having played with any straight 8s nor 25" truck engines I was unaware of the one piece seal..........do you know whether the one piece seal will fit the 25" car engines?.................is it safe to assume that the break in the one piece seal should be at the top when installed?.....................its good to learn something new each day and I have today..............many thanks.................Andy Douglas Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) I cannot be sure the one piece #1064942 seal will fit the two piece bolt on seals on 25" passenger cars but cannot see why not? The break in the seal always goes to the top. I have installed many one piece seals #1064941 in the Chrysler straight 8's. They never leak. I have seen a few of the one piece seals for the 25" engines on ebay .. Sorry about the rotated pic...cannot rotate correctly. Edited January 8, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
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