Starman Posted March 18, 2022 Report Posted March 18, 2022 Hi, I was wondering what steering gear box you used, and did you run into any hitches to install it on the frame, or with the pitman arm, or to the drag link? Quote
Lingle Posted March 19, 2022 Author Report Posted March 19, 2022 I used a box from a 2002 F250 4wd but I'm running an all ford front end so no stock dodge parts to interface with. I had to fabricate the mounting pad by welding on a flat page with holes and stand offs into the frame to inset the box and then the lower bolt is below the frame and needed to build a mount for it too. I can find photos if you are interested. Quote
Starman Posted March 24, 2022 Report Posted March 24, 2022 Thanks for the reply. I'm considering an option using a Chevy II gearbox as it looks very similar to the original and output shaft would fit the pitman arm I have. I think that would make it possible to use the existing drag link as I've already purchased replacement. I replaced the tie rods after installing the Scarebird disc brake conversion. (That's a story for another day.) Yeah, any photos you've got would be useful. Quote
Lingle Posted February 3, 2023 Author Report Posted February 3, 2023 been quite a bit since I posted any updates but I am doing work again. I cut out the whole floor section and have started to put framing/structure back in. In essence the floor heights wont change as I dont want to rebuild the cab mount locations. Did find out the seats I bought are WAY too big depth wise(~30" from rear most point to where it ends under your thighs when you would be seated). Tomorrow I am getting a set of Chrysler Sebring convertible seats as they too have built in seat belts, like the Ford ones shown in the photo. I will then finish the floor support so the seats bolt directly to the fore-aft section of 1.5" square tubing that I am using. I did learn I lost alot of structure and the doors sagged a bit, so have to re-level the doors before I put in the 3/4" square tubing I will have in the foot well area. Then itll be on to building the firewall/dog house and sheetmetal. I dont have a bead roller so will need to outsource the flooring when I get there, Ill make the templates and provide some of the metal, but a local place will need to bead roll it for stiffness. Hope everyone is doing well. fore-aft angle iron will be removed and replaced with 1.5" square tube like the side to side ones shown Quote
Lingle Posted February 13, 2023 Author Report Posted February 13, 2023 Question for the group. after repairing the floor and doing some rework, the doors are about as good as can be aligned, however I noticed on the B-pillar(sorry for no photos and cant get a snap of the parts catalog as the old website is not around) where the door ramp(below the latch point) interfaces is worn badly. they appear to almost be a composite V shape that helps bring the door up to the latch point. I checked DCM and they dont show repair parts, does anyone know if those parts are available? Even if they are composite/plastic? I think I could drill out the rivets and move one side to the other if they are mirrored. Apologies for no photos, but if I can Ill get a phot tonight from my cab. Quote
billrigsby Posted February 13, 2023 Report Posted February 13, 2023 (edited) No picture in the manual. Is this what you are looking for? eBay This is the male part... These are for a FORD, very similar and cheaper... eBay Edited February 13, 2023 by billrigsby Quote
Lingle Posted February 13, 2023 Author Report Posted February 13, 2023 58 minutes ago, billrigsby said: No picture in the manual. Is this what you are looking for? eBay This is the male part... These are for a FORD, very similar and cheaper... eBay Yes that would be it! The Ford ones do look like some sort of plastic or other material. the good news is they are the same part number for the female items, so in theory you could remove them from one side and move to the other since the wear is almost exclusively on the lower part(at least on my cab). Thanks for the quick feedback! Quote
Lingle Posted April 25, 2023 Author Report Posted April 25, 2023 finally getting some time to work on Project Mater! got the firewall all mocked up. Used a trailer fender and cut down to fit for a nice looking area around the bell housing. Then made a wireframe buck out of TIG rod to get the shape of the firewall ironed out. I follow Karl Fisher, MakeItKustom on YouTube, to learn about sheetmetal and other autobody items and this is how he makes various sheetmetal parts. as seen below, I made the firewall as close to the engine as comfortable to make room for the Vintage Air HVAC system as well as a heater. Likely I will weld shut the cowl vent. 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 25, 2023 Report Posted April 25, 2023 Round those edges! No sharp angles! ? 1 Quote
Lingle Posted April 26, 2023 Author Report Posted April 26, 2023 18 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: Round those edges! No sharp angles! ? thats the plan, I suspect you are mostly talking about the aluminum pedal support bracket between the pedals and the dash? for the firewall Ill try to make it as rounded as I can, but I dont have a English wheel and the neighbors finger break press can do decent radius. I kept the old firewall I cut out as a reference and see how well I do Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 26, 2023 Report Posted April 26, 2023 Corners and edges on the firewall. It's easy to make a MDF buck and hammer form a 3/4" radius in 16 ga (or lighter) to make it look more factory than a sharp welded or brake press edge/corner. Quote
Lingle Posted August 23, 2023 Author Report Posted August 23, 2023 summertime is hard for me to find time to work on the project but am finding some time to do some things. First up I have sourced some new engine parts, newer bypass blower, upgraded injectors and finally after 6+ months of searching I found turbo parts. sheetmetal for the floor and firewall have been sourced, 14ga to get as close to stock thickness. Just started layout work so here are some photos, I am hoping by this weekend I have them all trial fit, firewall bent up and can see about replacing the toeboards/cab parts near the front cab mounts. the black lines in the first photo are for where to drill for the spot welds I plan to put in. I will fully weld the sheet to the existing cab structure but to the floor structure spot welds. recommendation on how many spot welds(i.e. # per inch)? 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted August 23, 2023 Report Posted August 23, 2023 I did my plug welds at 2" apart. I also made sure I had a floor support under the locations the seats and seat belts would bolt down. 2" apart was a common reference by a number of those TV builders for placing plug welds. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted August 24, 2023 Report Posted August 24, 2023 I did about every 4", but I also utilized a bead roller to add stiffness and was using 16ga steel. Quote
Lingle Posted August 24, 2023 Author Report Posted August 24, 2023 Thanks everyone! given my floor structure being fairly close I opted not to do bead rolling(also finding someone to do that was proving difficult and purchasing the tools wasn't at the top of my list). Quote
Lingle Posted August 31, 2023 Author Report Posted August 31, 2023 got some more work done, wont be able to work on Mater until next week but got the foot floor area installed and welded in, started to look at the firewall and looks like the pre-bent pieces I made last week will work good, going to be fun filling in all the open spots, Im not a sheetmetal/thin metal person so learning as I go. the black lever in the phot is my transfer case shift ever, and the square opening next to it is where the gear shift lever goes. somewhat angled photo but the top of the sheetmetal firewall will be parallel to the ground and be welded into what is left of the existing firewall Quote
ggdad1951 Posted August 31, 2023 Report Posted August 31, 2023 Make sure you allow enough room on the floor for the transfercase and shifter allowing for a little engine twist. Looking good! Quote
Los_Control Posted August 31, 2023 Report Posted August 31, 2023 Looking good, a lot of work taking on a project like this. Thanks for taking us along. I know nothing about your engine. If there are any sensors or something you may need to access in the future .... now is the time to add a access panel. Was just thinking about a newer Dodge truck with a gasoline motor. Was either a crank or cam sensor located in this area. Was something stupid like pull the engine or the transmission to get to it. These modern engines do some stupid stuff. Quote
Lingle Posted November 14, 2023 Author Report Posted November 14, 2023 havent been working much on the truck since last update but I did stop by DCM Classics when I was in Holland, MI over the weekend(actually on Friday). that place is pretty sweet and the staff were awesome! got some sheetmetal parts while there to work on my cab. hope all is well with everyone! Quote
Los_Control Posted November 14, 2023 Report Posted November 14, 2023 That crew is awesome. Seems they are having some website issues. ... Couple weeks ago I ordered a parking light lens from them ...... While installing my original glass one, I dropped it on the concrete and broke it I ordered the part and went through the full steps. After the final step I expect to see a page that says order has been placed .... instead I get a 504 error. So thinking I messed up I ordered again .... and got the same 504 error at the end. About 15 minute later DCM calls me on the phone, asked if I wanted 1 or 2 lenses. Explained that the order goes through, just the customer see's the error and they are working on fixing it. I received the lens in a few days, to my surprise it was also glass like the original .... I was expecting plastic. It was also cheapest at $26, on ebay they were selling $35-$40. Quote
Lingle Posted April 17 Author Report Posted April 17 been working on the truck but havent done a post in months so sorry about that. got my intercooler mounted, but this caused me to have to relocate the A/C condenser so will be mimicking what GGDad is doing and mount the AC condenser remotely under the cab. since I am mounting the intercooler directly to the radiator/sheetmetal support, I am ok with the 3/8-1/2" of gap between the core and the front clip. next up is finishing the inner fenders to allow the piping to pass through, then back on cab sheetmetal. Happy times! Quote
Lingle Posted May 24 Author Report Posted May 24 been a bit since I last posted, my father in law passed then a week later my appendix decided it didnt like me so it came out so been recovering the last week(3 to go) before big work will resume. As seen on the BBQ raffle post, I got my cluster back from Keven, highly recommend his services, top notch and great person to deal with. I did do some firewall work, I used SendCutSend, as some had recommended, along with my free CAD software Fusion 360 to make the insert piece. as seen below its exactly to my posterboard and to my dxf I made...however I should have measured a little more as its about 1/4" too long, so the radius is too big but nothing a little sanding wont fix. Ill get a photo in the truck later Quote
Lingle Posted November 18 Author Report Posted November 18 random update time, been slowly working on truck but no big changes. after ~4 year slumber, 4 new injectors and an hour to prime the fuel system, I successfully started the old Detroit and turned fuel into noise yesterday! good oil pressure, no run-away condition. back to doing sheetmetal fab, rebuilding the inner fender since I had to remove most of them for CAC/intercooler plumbing. Im hoping to focus and be done with sheetmetal work this winter as we are looking to move next year so would be nice to drive the truck to the next location rather than trailer. 3 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted November 19 Report Posted November 19 I can hear it in my mind. Detroit Diesels have such a unique sound. 2 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.