P15 Universal Joint Boot

[Sam Buchanan]

I've read threads in the archives but many of them are several years old. The rear boot on my car has split so am needing to replace it. Has anyone purchased universal joint boots recently and have a good source and part number you are happy with? Also, any tips for installation beyond what is detailed in the Service Manual?

 

Are the leather boots on eBay a good option?

 

 

Thank you! 

Edited October 21, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[Doug&Deb]

I bought from Bernbaums. No issues. I had no problems installing mine. Much lube! Can’t emphasize that enough. 

[Sam Buchanan]

14 minutes ago, Doug&Deb said:

I bought from Bernbaums. No issues. I had no problems installing mine. Much lube! Can’t emphasize that enough. 

 

Thank you for the reply....Bernbaums is usually my fallback, just checking to see if there are better options. Will have the rubber gloves handy...   

[MarcDeSoto]

Don't buy the leather boots!  Even Master Tech warns against those!  They keep dirt and water in and lubricant out.  

 

Here is a link to the u-joint filmstrip.  You can skip to 11:00 to see the dust cover info.

 

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=524

[Andydodge]

Leather is for shoes, steering wheels and upholstery...........I still remember those mongrel leather boots when I installed new uni joints on the 40 Dodge.....this was 1972 when it was getting restored......what a PITA they were.........I would not use the leather boots in a fit.................lol..............andyd 

[Sam Buchanan]

7 hours ago, Andydodge said:

Leather is for shoes, steering wheels and upholstery...........I still remember those mongrel leather boots when I installed new uni joints on the 40 Dodge.....this was 1972 when it was getting restored......what a PITA they were.........I would not use the leather boots in a fit.................lol..............andyd 

 

Rubber boots from Bernbaum will be arriving today. 

[Doug&Deb]

Follow the directions in the service manual and you’ll have no problems. Here’s a tip. Heat them up in boiling water to soften. Stretching over the pin is the easy part. Lots of lube to get it through the housing. Good luck.

[Andydodge]

Doug.....so you place the leather boots in a saucepan with a rock and cover with water....bring to the boil and simmer, when the rocks tender remove the leather  and eat the rock?..........lol.........oops..........wrong recipe.........lol.........andyd

[desoto1939]

on the rubber boots my big question is how old is the rubber.  If these are not new production items then they are probably at least 30 or more years old.  They may look fine but as rubber ages it is not a soft and will get cracks.  and then will split and then you will have the same issue with water and grit getting into the u joint. Also applying grease to the old rubber and the chemicals in the grease might also cause the rubber to brake down.    So what you might want to try is get a universal cv joint boot for a modern car that is the appropriate sized holes on each end cut the unit length way slip it over the end of the drive safht and the end on the housing then get some gator glue and glue the side where you cut it then take the leather covers that you have and then cover the rubber.  Also you can use the plastic zip ties to hold the rubber cv joint boot onto each end of the driveshaft and u joint body.

 

Rich HArtung

[Sam Buchanan]

The rubber boots got delayed, should be here tomorrow and I expect them to be new production. I don't have any leather boots....not for universal joints, anyway.... 

 

I considered converting to new-style U-joints but the originals are tight and look very good. I can install several boots for less than what a new driveshaft would cost.

Edited October 25, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[TodFitch]

1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

. . . and I expect them to be new production. . .

 

What leads you to expect them to be new production?

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, TodFitch said:

 

What leads you to expect them to be new production?

 

Positive thinking.  ?

 

One of the eBay vendors is listing "brand new" boots so somebody must be repopping them. Should know soon.

 

Edited October 26, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[Eneto-55]

Following this discussion with interest.  Back in the era in which I started the rebuild on my 46, I don't recall that these rubber boots were available anywhere.  But I was limited to local sources, so that may be it.  I did use the leather boots.  This was nearly 40 years ago, and my memory is of course not flawless, but I seem to recall that the boots I used had both inner and outer pieces, that you fastened the inner section first, then the outer.  I would have to open mine up to verify this.  But the only knowledge I had to draw on was a parts book, and my dad's experience of maintaining his MoPar vehicles over the years before, and what he had learned from working in the parts service business (at a Chrysler-Plymouth-DeSoto-Dodge dealership) for a number of years from the middle 50's to mid 60's or so.

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

Following this discussion with interest.  Back in the era in which I started the rebuild on my 46, I don't recall that these rubber boots were available anywhere.  But I was limited to local sources, so that may be it.  I did use the leather boots.  This was nearly 40 years ago, and my memory is of course not flawless, but I seem to recall that the boots I used had both inner and outer pieces, that you fastened the inner section first, then the outer.  I would have to open mine up to verify this.  But the only knowledge I had to draw on was a parts book, and my dad's experience of maintaining his MoPar vehicles over the years before, and what he had learned from working in the parts service business (at a Chrysler-Plymouth-DeSoto-Dodge dealership) for a number of years from the middle 50's to mid 60's or so.

 

This may be similar to what you recall....found this on another forum:

 

[NickPick'sCrew]

NPT is trying to replace his UJ boots on his 47 at this point as well.  I told him that getting the boot through the housing is like going to the bathroom after eating a five pound block of government cheese.  He  didn't know that cheese came in five pound blocks or that they the government was once in the cheese business.  He has already split one boot.  Same as the rubber ones pictured above.  AB sells them on eBay and direct on its own site.  If any of the special tools listed in the service manual are must haves, then we are in deep trouble.

Edited October 28, 2019 by NickPick'sCrew

[NickPick'sCrew]

Just had to complete one myself.  Used gear grease on the boot and bearing grease in the housing.  Once the boot is over the trunnion and lined up, put the old balls back on the trunnion to help push the boot thought more evenly.  Once the bottom of the boot is through the bottom of the housing, attach the lower boot clamp tightly and take the balls back off.  Loosely hold the housing in the vice and pull on the driveshaft while pivoting side to side.  Do this with consistent, constant pressure with steady slow movements so not to rip the boot.  Takes time and a little grunting, just like gong to the bathroom after eating a five pound block of government cheese. 

 

Suggestions for best grease to use in these?  When we opened them up it looked like old well used 90 weight, but the technical film that Marc posted seems to call for something with a little less viscosity.

 

Edited October 28, 2019 by NickPick'sCrew

[Sam Buchanan]

Looks like Nick is out ahead of us on this. 

 

My boots arrived today from Bernbaum after going AWOL in shipping for a few days. There have been a couple of posts suggesting we may be getting NOS boots so I'm gonna post a photo of what I received:

 

 

There is nothing here to make me think these boots are thirty years old. They look, feel, and smell fresh and the clamps look brand new. I hope they have a happy, long service life.

 

Nick, I intend to use Valvoline high temp grease in the joints:

 

Here's hoping my boots survive the installation attempts!   

Edited October 29, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[NickPick'sCrew]

Sam, we purchased the full kits and the boots were the same as yours.  The harder parts were oxidized blackish/brown quite a bit but still somewhat smooth. 

[Sam Buchanan]

20 hours ago, NickPick'sCrew said:

 Takes time and a little grunting, just like gong to the bathroom after eating a five pound block of government cheese. 

 

Man....that five pound chunk of government cheese is a load! I got one boot installed but my bathroom habits may need a couple of days to recover.......

 

I was going to replace both boots but the other one isn't split and I can service the u-joint with it in place. When it splits it may be time for a new driveshaft with modern u-joints..... 

[NickPick'sCrew]

48 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Man....that five pound chunk of government cheese is a load! I got one boot installed but my bathroom habits may need a couple of days to recover.......

 

I was going to replace both boots but the other one isn't split and I can service the u-joint with it in place. When it splits it may be time for a new driveshaft with modern u-joints..... 

 

My lower back is still recovering so I'm definitely leaving the second one to Nicholas

 

FYI, the strength of the threads built into the clamps are questionable, I had one that seemed like it didn't even have threads.  We went to the hardware shop and added a nut for each one to firm that up.  I think I see a nut in the photo you posted?    Wait, I see now that one of our kits is a special addition with nuts deleted.

Edited October 29, 2019 by NickPick'sCrew

[Doug&Deb]

The only advantage of the modern u-joints is less maintenance. Those ball and trunnion joints are pretty tough. And no Andy I have no recipes for rock and leather but plenty for rock and roll.

[Sam Buchanan]

14 minutes ago, Doug&Deb said:

The only advantage of the modern u-joints is less maintenance. Those ball and trunnion joints are pretty tough. And no Andy I have no recipes for rock and leather but plenty for rock and roll.

Yep, I was impressed with how good the joints look on my car, no apparent wear. I should be able to replace a boot quicker next time....will only be a two pound chunk of gov't cheese.... ?

[Doug&Deb]

I replaced the torn one first then I replaced the other one while the engine was out for a rebuild. Hopefully won’t need to do it again for a long time.