Just bought: 1947 Dodge 4 door

[Jchaidez]

@Los_Control

Thanks plan is to get the head off to take pics of the innards and maybe get some used tires so it wont be sitting on the shock and ubolt. 

I dont mind it low. Reminds me of my old vw beetle hahah.  

 

I was looking at the 4 link upgrade:

https://www.streetrodengineering.com/products/triangulated-4-link-rear-suspension

 

But not sure if it is overkill. 

Edited September 11, 2019 by Jchaidez
Grammer

[Los_Control]

Just to add to the last post, look at the floor boards above the rear end, see the oil ... it did leak in the past.

I have said before, sometimes we need to play detective to figure out the history of a car.

This just tells me that someone loved and cared for this car before you.

 

just to bad it was parked with no carb on it, it really may not be that bad to bring it back to life. Same time, it may have been parked because they hot rodded it and spun a bearing.

Just like my Grandpa did in 1961.

Or maybe the carb was bad and they just never fixed it.

 

I would check the condition of that engine, but you could also try placing a few want to buy adds in the classified here, craigslist, facebook market place. people will pull good running engines and replace with a modern engine.

Now they have a good flathead six sitting in the garage taking up space. You might pick up a runner for not much money if you ask.

 

That is something you will need to decide. Fixing it with a original bolt in engine and making it road worthy will be the cheapest options.

Many have dropped every type of engine you can imagine, yes a 327/200r has been done before.

You have to be honest with yourself, how good of a fabricator are you?

You can bolt in a replacement engine, you will have to make mounts and solve problems installing the 327/auto.

 

We all start somewhere, I have very little knowledge of cars, I depend on the participants of this forum to help me ... I am a carpenter not a mechanic.

I strongly suggest you just fix the car, get it running and drive it, then upgrade it as the years pass by. enjoy the car.

You are already talking about a 4 link rear end, yet you do not know what lowering blocks are.  I assure you, you will not need a four link with a flathead.

Fix what you have, then modify and improve from there.

Otherwise you will end up like many others, pile of parts in the driveway that needs removed.

[Jchaidez]

21 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Just to add to the last post, look at the floor boards above the rear end, see the oil ... it did leak in the past.

I have said before, sometimes we need to play detective to figure out the history of a car.

This just tells me that someone loved and cared for this car before you.

 

just to bad it was parked with no carb on it, it really may not be that bad to bring it back to life. Same time, it may have been parked because they hot rodded it and spun a bearing.

Just like my Grandpa did in 1961.

Or maybe the carb was bad and they just never fixed it.

 

I would check the condition of that engine, but you could also try placing a few want to buy adds in the classified here, craigslist, facebook market place. people will pull good running engines and replace with a modern engine.

Now they have a good flathead six sitting in the garage taking up space. You might pick up a runner for not much money if you ask.

 

That is something you will need to decide. Fixing it with a original bolt in engine and making it road worthy will be the cheapest options.

Many have dropped every type of engine you can imagine, yes a 327/200r has been done before.

You have to be honest with yourself, how good of a fabricator are you?

You can bolt in a replacement engine, you will have to make mounts and solve problems installing the 327/auto.

 

We all start somewhere, I have very little knowledge of cars, I depend on the participants of this forum to help me ... I am a carpenter not a mechanic.

I strongly suggest you just fix the car, get it running and drive it, then upgrade it as the years pass by. enjoy the car.

You are already talking about a 4 link rear end, yet you do not know what lowering blocks are.  I assure you, you will not need a four link with a flathead.

Fix what you have, then modify and improve from there.

Otherwise you will end up like many others, pile of parts in the driveway that needs removed.

Not trying fo jump the gun. Just asking about options. I am open to anything fo get this running and driving safety at the lowest cost. Thus I really do appreciate everyone's input. 

 

If the motor turns after greasing it up then awesome. Direction to go has been decided. if its seized I'll try to see what the cost is to rebuild the motor. I saw a delux kit on kantar.com for about $1300. I will try to rebuild myself. 

 

The rear just scared me since its touching the floor. I hadn't noticed the lowering blocks. Thought everything had buckled. Too excited thus overlooking the obvious.

Edited September 11, 2019 by Jchaidez

[Los_Control]

From what I see in the photos, frame and all looks pretty good. I think you have a decent all original car there.

Some frames from other locations, would be all rusted up and need repair. Yours has dirt but do not see major rust.

 

While the motor does not run, the rest of it is looking pretty good.

11 minutes ago, Jchaidez said:

saw a delux kit on kantar.com for about $1300

 

I dunno, sounds about right ... I imagine a complete rebuilt engine will cost $2k with machine work.

Have you checked the numbers on the block to see what engine you have?

[Jchaidez]

15 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

 

Have you checked the numbers on the block to see what engine you have?

Will check that shortly. Thanks. 

[Jchaidez]

Casting numbers I found 

[Los_Control]

This is the number you want.

 

You can look up the info here . http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

[Los_Control]

Is that a purple octopus  you have there?

[Jchaidez]

6 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Is that a purple octopus  you have there?

It was helping with the head bolts. Haha

 

I'm guessing most of the aaccesaories need to come off because they are bolted to the side of the head. 

[Jchaidez]

So based on this I'm guessing it's a 230 since its blank. 

[Ranger]

Good project, good advice from the gang. You asked about rubber early on. Might try Steele rubber company. Find them on line and they will send you a listing of all the rubber they carry for your car. I sure agree with trying to bring the six back to life. They’re tough engines. Get it running, then upgrade as you learn.

[John Reddie]

21 hours ago, Jchaidez said:

Well this is scary also. 

Yes, this is way too low. Even with an inflated tire, the clearance would not be increased that much. If this car was mine, I would remove the lowering pieces and install the correct length u-bolts so the springs are positioned as they should be.. Having owned one of these Dodges before, I know what nice cars they are to drive. I hope you can get it back in roadworthy condition with either the existing engine or another similar flathead 6 of the same vintage (rather than a Chevrolet). My opinion of course but in any event, good luck to you.

John R

[Jchaidez]

Head is off. Managed without taking off all the accessories.

[Reg Evans]

Oh Man....those poor lizards !  At least they didn't die alone.  

[Plymouthy Adams]

dang...don't you just hate it when the engineer and conductor both die on the job...

[Jchaidez]

So does this look bad? Water in the bolt holes? What should I try next? Sorry. I know 0 on engines. Sorry guys. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

 the head bolts threads are open to the water jacket......

[keithb7]

I’ve seen worse...When I took the head off my running flathead Mopar engine.

 

Have you looked around much on local on-line classifieds for a used flathead mopar engine? I started paying attention and I am soon to be stumbling over 2 spare engines here in my garage. Plus I skipped on one opportunity to buy one. They can be had for cheap. 

 

I’d pull the rad and get it out of the way.  Breaker bar, maybe if you’re lucky. If no go, maybe pull the oil pan and some rod and main caps to investigate the bottom end. It’s all a great learning exercise. Pull one at a time, look for rust. Wipe ‘em clean and get some white 105 engine assembly grease. Put the bearings and caps back on greased up. Maybe just hand tight the fasteners temporarily. Try hand turning the crank again. No go? Go back up top and soak the cylinders in lube. Try barring it over again. And again. And again. Tap, tap, tap, try again. 

 

You might be better off spending tour time looking for a deal on an engine hoist and an engine stand.  Yank the engine and do work on a stand. If you find the engine is still in bad shape, consider a used running engine. Or rebuild. 

 

Again, an awesome learning opportunity. 

Edited September 13, 2019 by keithb7

[Jchaidez]

46 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

I’ve seen worse...When I took the head off my running flathead Mopar engine.

 

Have you looked around much on local on-line classifieds for a used flathead mopar engine? I started paying attention and I am soon to be stumbling over 2 spare engines here in my garage. Plus I skipped on one opportunity to buy one. They can be had for cheap. 

 

I’d pull the rad and get it out of the way.  Breaker bar, maybe if you’re lucky. If no go, maybe pull the oil pan and some rod and main caps to investigate the bottom end. It’s all a great learning exercise. Pull one at a time, look for rust. Wipe ‘em clean and get some white 105 engine assembly grease. Put the back caps on greased up. Maybe just hand tight the fasteners temporarily. Try hand turning the crank again. No go? Go back up top and soak the cylinders in lube. Try barring it over again. And again. And again. Tap, tap, tap, try again. 

 

You might be better off spending tour time looking for a deal on an engine hoist and an engine stand.  Yank the engine and do work on a stand. If you find the engine is still in bad shape, consider a used running engine. Or rebuild. 

 

Again, an awesome learning opportunity. 

Awesome. Will try all.

[philjafo]

 

If these guys can get these two motors freed up then I have no doubt the one in your pictures can be saved. The series isn’t done yet but on the Buick they made a plate to bolt over a stuck piston and the used a portapower to push it with hydraulics. 

[Jchaidez]

@keithb7 I checked craigslist but havent seen any engines 

[keithb7]

Search facebook marketplace too. Search "flathead".

 

[Merle Coggins]

I'd start by removing the critter carcasses, then spray down the cylinder walls with a good penetrating oil. On any valves that are open spray some of that same oil on the valve stems to help lubricate the valve stem/guide area. Get yourself a large socket and breaker bar to fit the crankshaft bolt and try to get it to rotate. Once it rotates, continue to lube the cylinder walls and valve stems. Check that all of the valves close fully. There is a tendency for valves to stick open when the guides and stems get a little rusty.

Once you have everything moving freely, reinstall the head, get some gas flowing into the carburetor, and fire it up.

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Guy in Virginia has a rebuilt 218 on craigslist. Says it was rebuilt with polished ports, mild cam... Never installed. Might be an option for you.

[Jchaidez]

6 minutes ago, Greg51T&CWagon said:

Guy in Virginia has a rebuilt 218 on craigslist. Says it was rebuilt with polished ports, mild cam... Never installed. Might be an option for you.

Can you shoot me the add?