ThriftyT Posted June 30, 2019 Report Posted June 30, 2019 Looking for tips , tricks, and pictures of splitting stock exhaust manifolds. I’m splitting a stock Chrysler 25” 230. I got my cuts mapped out, I’m going to braise the caps and 2nd dump on. But I’d like to see how others have done it, and catch their dos and don’ts. Thanks In advance! Quote
tub1 Posted July 1, 2019 Report Posted July 1, 2019 why not use half of a truck manifold and half of a car one then you only have to block two holes with a brazed in plug and not the dump area as the strength of the cast dump be stronger than a brazed one 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted July 1, 2019 Report Posted July 1, 2019 Not sure if what I did will help but as this was for a RHD car and Fenton headers would not clear the steering box I found that there were at least 3 different outlet 23" engine stocck manifolds.........one that dumped between cylinders 2 & 3........another that dumped between cylinders 5 & 6........ and a third that dumped at cylinder # 7(if one existed, lol)........as the pic shows I cut the front off of one and the rear off another and as I live in country Oz I went to the local blacksmith who welded the ends shut...........this cleared the pesky RHD steering box tho' I sold the car before fitting it up.............dunno if this helps..........Andyd 1 Quote
tub1 Posted July 1, 2019 Report Posted July 1, 2019 yes andy that's what I was thinking about ,mind you I was thinking 25 inch engine Quote
greg g Posted July 3, 2019 Report Posted July 3, 2019 http://rustyhope.com/site/intakeexhausts/ Quote
Andydodge Posted July 3, 2019 Report Posted July 3, 2019 Tub............not sure whether the RHD Oz cars that used the 25" engine had differing exhaust manifolds, but as mentioned the 23" engines certainly did........andyd Quote
1949 Wraith Posted July 3, 2019 Report Posted July 3, 2019 (edited) I had mine done for my Canadian long block. I have had no issues with carb icing since the heat riser has been removed and I drive the car when roads are clear when temps are down to 20F and that is only because the car has no heater. Edited July 3, 2019 by 1949 Wraith 1 Quote
blucarsdn Posted July 7, 2019 Report Posted July 7, 2019 The pix that Coatney attached is very good, shows that the exhaust manifold is still bolted to the intake. Not a good idea to eliminate the heat-riser, I know many people do that, but it is not a good thing. Quote
ThriftyT Posted July 14, 2019 Author Report Posted July 14, 2019 On 7/3/2019 at 6:03 AM, 1949 Wraith said: I had mine done for my Canadian long block. I have had no issues with carb icing since the heat riser has been removed and I drive the car when roads are clear when temps are down to 20F and that is only because the car has no heater. I like it. Did you braise it? Quote
DJ194950 Posted July 14, 2019 Report Posted July 14, 2019 Wondering if the "added" second exhaust outlet was made from steel parts that were made as needed and welded or brazed to the original manifold or the added part was part cut off another manifold and welded? or brazed on? Thanks, dj Quote
1949 Wraith Posted July 15, 2019 Report Posted July 15, 2019 21 hours ago, ThriftyT said: I like it. Did you braise it? I sent my original manifold off to George Asche and he did the work, info can be found on him on this site. The added port is steel. Quote
ThriftyT Posted July 16, 2019 Author Report Posted July 16, 2019 Thanks. Anyone know a good place to get manifold gaskets from?? Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted July 16, 2019 Report Posted July 16, 2019 22 minutes ago, ThriftyT said: Thanks. Anyone know a good place to get manifold gaskets from?? I ordered a set of Felpro intake and exhaust manifold gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. They are also available from Rock Auto and the usual old Mopar sources. 1 Quote
ThriftyT Posted July 16, 2019 Author Report Posted July 16, 2019 6 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said: I ordered a set of Felpro intake and exhaust manifold gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. They are also available from Rock Auto and the usual old Mopar sources. Thanks. I will go downtown and check. I seemed to be striking out online. I’ve found several. But they sure don’t look right Quote
Frank Elder Posted July 16, 2019 Report Posted July 16, 2019 I don't know if you have a really good true straight edge ThriftyT, but I would check those mating flanges for trueness before mounting the manifolds to the engine. Might save you some headaches later. Good Luck. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted July 16, 2019 Report Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) 44 minutes ago, ThriftyT said: Thanks. I will go downtown and check. I seemed to be striking out online. I’ve found several. But they sure don’t look right Probably useless to try ordering them in the store, I ordered online. However, you are working with a different engine than in my car so your experience may be different from mine. I'm probably running down a rabbit trail...but is this what you need? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=125086&cc=1487711&jsn=490 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-intake-exhaust-manifold-gasket-set-ms-8009-b/19780554-P?searchTerm=ms8009b Edited July 16, 2019 by Sam Buchanan Quote
ThriftyT Posted July 16, 2019 Author Report Posted July 16, 2019 26 minutes ago, Frank Elder said: I don't know if you have a really good true straight edge ThriftyT, but I would check those mating flanges for trueness before mounting the manifolds to the engine. Might save you some headaches later. Good Luck. I do! But I plan on running them on a belt sander a bit for piece of mind. Thanks 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted July 16, 2019 Report Posted July 16, 2019 16 hours ago, ThriftyT said: I do! But I plan on running them on a belt sander a bit for piece of mind. Thanks Use any dye or paint on the mating surface before sanding, that will help locate the low spots as you sand. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.