6v ignition switch question

[46windsir]

So  unfortunately a while back I rewired my car from 6v to 12v “newbie” mistake , I thought by replacing the  Old and dry brittle wiring  to a updated 12v system would be a great upgrade , unfortunately it made things harder ,   currently my ignition is wired using a aftermarket ignition as seen in picture below  

 

 

right now I’m stuck on trying to figure out how to still obtain my original key and ignition switch any ideas on how to connect using Ga, am,rad ? I also will still be using the push button set up like the original way. Below is a picture of the original ignition switch .

 

 

 

Edited March 29, 2019 by 46windsir

[Frank Elder]

Sounds familiar........

 

[46windsir]

1 hour ago, Frank Elder said:

Sounds familiar........

 

 

Sorry about that Frank for some reason I must have copied my old post to this new post my mistake. 

[chrysler1941]

I presume neutral safety switch has 2 terminals.

Remove Pink lead from fuse panel and key switch and connect to coil. Connect purple from neutral switch to IGN on key switch 31. 

When key is turned,  hot will run via neutral switch and power coil only when in neutral. 

 

Edited March 29, 2019 by chrysler1941

[Merle Coggins]

AM = Ammeter, which would have been battery power in. Your Red Ignition Power wire (Batt.) would go there.

GA = Gauges, which is your accessory power for the gauges and etc. Whichever wires would go to the Acc. terminal would go to GA.

RAD = I'm not sure what that stands for. They usually say COIL. But I believe that would be your coil wire (Pink?), and would be the same as the Ign. on the new switch.

The St. that says to go to the Neutral Safety Switch would go to your Start Button. The other side of the Start Button would need to be wired to AM, or RAD, to give it power.

[46windsir]

helpful info , thanks for your help guys going to look at the ignition setup this weekend. 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

8 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

AM = Ammeter, which would have been battery power in. Your Red Ignition Power wire (Batt.) would go there.

GA = Gauges, which is your accessory power for the gauges and etc. Whichever wires would go to the Acc. terminal would go to GA.

RAD = I'm not sure what that stands for. They usually say COIL. But I believe that would be your coil wire (Pink?), and would be the same as the Ign. on the new switch.

The St. that says to go to the Neutral Safety Switch would go to your Start Button. The other side of the Start Button would need to be wired to AM, or RAD, to give it power.

RAD means Radio....

[Merle Coggins]

So, RAD would be more of an Accessory connector, as the radio can usually be powered with the key turned counter clockwise. Then GA, or gauge terminal, would also power up the coil in the clockwise position only? 

 

[46windsir]

On 3/30/2019 at 3:22 PM, Merle Coggins said:

So, RAD would be more of an Accessory connector, as the radio can usually be powered with the key turned counter clockwise. Then GA, or gauge terminal, would also power up the coil in the clockwise position only? 

 

 

Thanks for your help Merle got the wiring up and running ??

[Shortstop]

46Windsir - What was your final hookup to the new ignition switch?  I have the same lettering on the back of my switch (1951 Ford F1, V8) and have decided to use a Seachoice 11621 ignition switch.  On the back of that Seachoice switch it has Batt, IGN and SOL. Trying to figure out which wires from the original (OE) switch connects to the new Seachoice switch without causing a fire or damaging anything.

 

Original (OE) Switch 

AM

RAD/GA

COIL

 

Seachoice 11621 Switch

BATT

IGN

SOL

 

How do I bring the wires together so that everything works correctly?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

[greg g]

Sol goes to the starter solenoid and should only be hot when the switch is turned fully clockwise. The rad could be radio and other accessories you would want available driving down the road.  Like radio, heater fan, windshield wipers if electric. This should be the first position clockwise one where the key returns to when the starter is released.  The COMMON might be labeled this way and might

Also power things like horn, signals revers lamps, fog lights.  So you can bench test the switch and determine which terminals are hot in each position assuming batt and Amm are

Usually power in either from the battery, battery common terminal the large battery side of the solenoid,, or ammeter.

 

Then there are things you want powered regardless of key on or off like lights, interior lights, stop lights and horn.  Some switches also have one counter clockwise position from off which is usually labeled acc. So radio and auxiliary lights could be powered from there to assure they are off when the key is in your pocket.  Some modern switches have the acc terminal in the first clockwise rather than counter clock wise but a bench test would reveal that situation.  If your car has a starter button, you probably want to have that powered from the first run position so the starter can't be engaged without the key in.

Edited October 24, 2021 by greg g

[Sniper]

I would suggest you consider not having the horn powered with the key off.  Many is the time I have honked the horn when folding the driver's seat forward to get in the back.  makes you jump, lol.