Me and the B-1-D

[Worden18]

August 5:

My son and I took apart the floating axle assemblies on both sides tonight.  I watched a YouTube video, took notes, and laid everything out in order that it will be reassembled.  Although it seems pretty straightforward now that I took it all apart, I'm the type of person that needs notes and pictures.  Thank goodness for the home-made axle nut socket I found under the seat; without it I would've been up a creek.  The drums are dirty, etc., but there is no ridge on the lip.  So that's a plus.  There's a ton of cleanup to do, but we'll have fun with that as well.  It was a beautiful 65 degrees, no bugs, and we listened to Sammy Hagar's VOA album from 1984.  Talk about good times!  

[Worden18]

Everything looks to be in good shape.  Just dirty....

[Worden18]

Aug. 5:

Talk about a mountain of crud....

Not sure when the last time anyone had these assemblies apart, but if I had to guess it's been decades. I'll work on disassembling the wheel cylinders and brake shoes soon. ?

[Merle Coggins]

Good tunes help get good results. LOL!!

 

Edited August 7, 2020 by Merle Coggins

[Worden18]

Aug. 6:

Okay fellas, question/tutorial time.  My manual doesn't cover this stuff.  I'm sure someone has gone over it here on the forums, I'll be damned if I can find it.

Rear drum: I removed the snap ring which was where the red line is pointing at.  After that I'm lost.  The front drums have the oil seal that can be pulled out easily enough to access the inner bearing and race.  The rear drum has a lip over the top (the red line runs across it); I'm just not even sure what I'm looking at, or how to access that inner bearing now.  It's gotta be simple I know, but half the time I'm a damn fool and need help ?

 

 

 

[JBNeal]

In the factory shop manual, there is a paragraph on rear hub service for the B-1-D, PW, F-J trucks in the Wheels and Tires section...

After the retainer is removed, that hub inner oil seal is removed, though I cannot remember if I used a drift on the inner bearing race or the bearing itself to dislodge that oil seal, gotta be careful to not damage that bearing by getting in a hurry...

 

additional information - front wheel seal

additional information - rear wheel seals 

[Merle Coggins]

The seal should fit through that outer flange. Flip the hub over so that it is resting on the drum. Use a long drift, or hardwood dowel/hammer handle, to tap on the inner bearing cone. This should drive the seal out, along with the bearing. 

[Worden18]

On 8/7/2020 at 7:25 AM, Merle Coggins said:

The seal should fit through that outer flange. Flip the hub over so that it is resting on the drum. Use a long drift, or hardwood dowel/hammer handle, to tap on the inner bearing cone. This should drive the seal out, along with the bearing. 

Sept. 7:

After searching my garage for s suitable tool/drift to no avail, I'll have to ask my boss for a piece of scrap aluminum to use as a drift.  I already have the rest of the bearings soaking in hopes of getting them clean.  None of the bearings or cones are scored, pitted, or rusty.  I'll be reusing them.  

Pic: bearings soaking

Edited September 8, 2020 by Worden18

[Worden18]

Sept. 7:

Master cylinder out.  It's about my only solid accomplishment for the day.  I started a list of parts I need including the brake shoes, master cylinder, front drum inner seals, rear axle flange gasket, and pumpkin gasket.  There'll be other things I'm going to add as I proceed.  

[JBNeal]

I've used Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker instead of cutting differential carrier and cover gaskets and have been impressed with the results...RTV black and red would seep a little, but this stuff works as advertised...I'd recommended using it on the axle shaft  flanges also

[Worden18]

11 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

I've used Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker instead of cutting differential carrier and cover gaskets and have been impressed with the results...RTV black and red would seep a little, but this stuff works as advertised...I'd recommended using it on the axle shaft  flanges also

Thanks.  Never heard of it.  But I'm going to pick up a tube ?

[Merle Coggins]

Locktite and Permetex both have an Anaerobic Gasket Maker that will harden to a plastic like material when sandwiched between two metal flanges. It is great stuff for sealing up things like differential mounting surfaces, or axle flanges. 

 

As for your search for a drift to remove the bearings... I have used a hammer handle at times when I didn't have a drift handy. Anything fairly solid, and long enough to reach through the hub will work.  

[Worden18]

Sept. 8:

Borrowed a long piece of brass from work.  It's good and heavy.  Bearings and seals out of rear drums.  Parts soaking...

[Worden18]

Sept. 8:

This is a seal from the rear drum.  Notice the inner metal part showing, which is behind the rubber.  Is it supposed to be like this?  Or is the seal junk?

 

[JBNeal]

That's a metal spring that acts to keep positive contact of the rubber lip to the shaft surface, a common seal design element...if this pops out during seal installation, ya might have a problem with the seal such as a warped metal flange...

[ggdad1951]

Generally I never reuse a seal.  Just too easy for it to ruin a good rebuild.

[Worden18]

11-2-20:

My son and I are working on the rear brakes.  Those C-anchors are giving me trouble. One bolt I was able to get loose, the other side spins with the ratchet.  I see on the backside that the bolt has flats on it... I suppose the solution to the very problem I'm having ?

It's going to need more soaking first.  

I'm trying to take advantage of the warm weather here.  Mid to upper 60s all week.  I finally got my bench cleaned off and a few things straightened out so I can actually walk around in my garage.  

I'll be sending the brake shoes to a place in Minneapolis to be relined/restored; that is, if the idiotic domestic terrorists don't burn the place down.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Generally you always leave the lower anchor bolts alone when removing the shoes.

Just remove the horseshoe clip.

A big open end wrench will knock them right off...cannot remember the size though. I have used the open end wrench on my 1 tonner doing the brakes.

 This first picture shows a 1950 Chrysler passenger car transmission e-brake clip being removed with a 3/4" open end wrench.

Also shown is the factory Miller tool used to remove the horseshoe clip on a 48 Chrysler rear brakes.

This should give you an idea how to easily remove the clips on your truck.

Edited November 4, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya

[Brent B3B]

Geeze Rob, now you tell me... ?

I ended up making a push bar for a project I am working on 

 

 

I also removed the anchor bolts to clean them up, cause mine were rusted to the backing plate and shoes and no way to adjust them when the time comes. 

Edited November 5, 2020 by Brent B3B
Photo removed, not trying to hijack

[Dodgeb4ya]

Brent...you don't need any of my ideas or help...

With your hot wrench, a piece of metal and a hammer you always make your own tools to get'r done.

Now get that hot wrench out and free up those anchor bolts!

BTW...Nice horseshoe clip tool?

Oh....another fast junkyard way to remove those clips is to use a semi sharp punch, or narrow screw driver .etc

Angle the punch into the back side (curved part) of the horseshoe clip and drive it off. The legs of the clip unwrap as it's driven off the anchor.

They come right off.

 It leaves a slight impression in the clip though. Flatten the clip if slightly curled after removal. Re-use clip.

[JBNeal]

I've used the small punch for removal when the C-clips were frozen in place, boogered up several that way, luckily found replacements at VPW

[Dodgeb4ya]

NAPA used to sell those horseshoe clips in all sizes.

[48Dodger]

Note:  I have a picture file of all the tools Brent has made.....just incase....lol.

 

 

48D

[Worden18]

11-9:

Been working on colored pencil drawings lately.  I posted one on Me and the Meadowbrook yesterday.  Today's drawing: my 48 B1D up on blocks with the wheels off and the hood open during autumn. Real life, its up on blocks in my crappy garage.  ?

Edited November 10, 2020 by Worden18

[minot_mcguyver]

On 1/7/2019 at 7:36 PM, Worden18 said:

January 7, 2019:

Fellas, I'm so excited to share my latest find with you!  I have been searching for this truck for a LONG time; I was almost certain it did not exist.  And for it to turn up in Minnesota, an hour and a half from me is truly amazing.  

 

It's a 1948 B-1-D 5 window Express 1 ton with the 9 foot box.  230 with the 4 speed tranny.  Originally came from a grain farm in North Dakota.  There's no rust on it, and after further inspection it does look like the original paint, which is Dodge truck red for 1948.  Odometer reads 32K.  

 

It's not running, but I'm confident we will have it going this week.  PO said it was running last summer, but he had lost spark recently.  He had it for 5 years and didn't do anything with it.  Needs brakes of course.  I can handle that on my own.  

 

It is truly a survivor!  I'm certain the rear bumper is handmade. I don't believe the wood in the bed is original, and I don't believe the seat covering and door panels are original. But they are old for sure.  Has anyone ever seen that type of material on these old trucks?  

 

Anyway, I have a lot of questions, but I doubt I will get to them tonight. For now guys, just enjoy the pictures. ?

Reminds me of when I brought my 1950 one ton home. Mine had the 7.5 foot box. Looked more proportional as a pickup, than a "truck". A buddy of mine, liked my 1950 so much, he was able to find a 1952 Dodge one ton, with the same box as yours.  My truck had sat, in a machine shed, for just shy of thirty years. My buddies truck, was outside and hadn't been run, in thirteen years. Though his sat outside, it was in exceptionally nice shape. 

My truck had a stuck valve. But that was an easy resolve.  It was running after one day of tinkering. 

My buddy's 52, startled us both. We towed it home, checked the oil, tossed a battery in it, bypassed the gas tank, with a fuel line run into a mayonnaise jar, with gasoline in it, squirted a little gas in the carb, spun it over and it immediately fired up and ran. Even the accelerator pump, in the carb, worked!  We both had brake issues. But we rebuilt all our cylinders, as well as masters and we were good to go.  

We had so much fun.  You've not lived, until you see the look on people's faces, as you pull a crank out and hand crank start your old Dodge truck, in the Kmart parking lot!  LOL