peteandvanessa Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 11 hours ago, BobB said: Just a quick note to warn you about the line that connects the two rear cylinders. If you don’t get it tucked down flat enough, it will make contact with the drum. It it only takes half a mile to wear through the line and dump the fluid. Ask me how I know. Unless you’ve upgraded to a dual cylinder, that event will make your brake pedal useless. That’s when your emergency brake come in really handy - hope the T-handle is well oiled though it’s amazing how hard you can pull when you’re that motivated. This forum has a great supply of really knowledgeable people as well as those who can share lessons learned the hard way. Regards, BobB I did notice that, and spent a good while making sure that the drum isn't contacting the inner brakeline and that there's some clearance so it doesn't rub. I'm still running a single circuit. Right now, I have some missing parts from the emergency brake, that's something I still need to address before driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: These work awesome....BUT you will likely have to siphon some fluid out of the MC as designed/build as it will fill to the top. When I made mine, I left 1/4" or so of tube drop down into the MC space so when I break the seal it keeps the level below the tippy top of the MC. That's good to know. When I was getting ready to bleed the brakes, I noticed that the pressure bleeder wasn't holding pressure, What's good about the pressure bleeder, you can pressurize it and if it doesn't hold pressure you KNOW you have a leak somewhere in the brake system, so there was no point in putting in brake fluid until the leaks are found and fixed. It also allows you to connect an airline from a compressor to pressurize the system and spray soapy water on all the connections to find the leaks. Saves wasting brake fluid ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 (edited) One step forward, two steps back. I found out why my brake lines weren't holding pressure. I pressurized my whole braking system to 15 psi, it wouldn't hold the pressure, it leaked down in a minute. So I connected it to my compressor and pressurized the whole system again, and guess what, it was leaking (audible hiss) coming from the NEW front drivers side piston. Took it apart, cleaned it, put it back on and it still leaks from one side of the piston. Damn it, ordered another one from a different vendor. The one that leaks came from rockauto, so won't order from them again. While I was there, I checked all the other brake connections, they all seem leak free when checked with soapy water from a sprayer bottle. Edited February 24, 2019 by peteandvanessa 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 I doubt Rock auto manufactured the part themselves, actual manufacturer probably supplying any number of vendors, including the popular parts house suppliers. Unfortunately, the quality of wheel cylinders is a much too frequent topic. I'm hoping the new cylinders I bought for a 20 year newer project are OK. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 (edited) I'm gonna have to agree with Dave72, Rockauto is just a vendor not the manufacturer. I have ordered for Rockauto dozens on times with no issues. However, when it comes to brake cylinders and master cylinders, I have bought from some of the board recommended vendors and had issues with both parts. Unfortunately it seems to be the nature of some of the replacemnt parts. One of the reasons I upgraded to disc brakes and a dual master Edited February 24, 2019 by 59bisquik 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 15 hours ago, peteandvanessa said: One step forward, two steps back. I found out why my brake lines weren't holding pressure. I pressurized my whole braking system to 15 psi, it wouldn't hold the pressure, it leaked down in a minute. So I connected it to my compressor and pressurized the whole system again, and guess what, it was leaking (audible hiss) coming from the NEW front drivers side piston. Took it apart, cleaned it, put it back on and it still leaks from one side of the piston. Damn it, ordered another one from a different vendor. The one that leaks came from rockauto, so won't order from them again. While I was there, I checked all the other brake connections, they all seem leak free when checked with soapy water from a sprayer bottle. had the same issue on a rear while building FEF, took 3 tries (3 different parts) to get one that worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 I have these reproduction toe boards that i purchased from ebay earlier this week.I'll let you know what the quality and fitment is like. It's got to be better that my totally rusted out toe boards (i hope) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-53-Dodge-Pickup-B-Series-Complete-Front-Toe-Board-Section-NEW/173745834394?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 My upper and middle toe boards arrived today. They are pretty good quality, a little thinner than the originals (these are 1.3mm thick mild steel). A quick comparison to the old toe boards and they are pretty accurate. They come as bare steel, so will need painting for sure, but much better than my rusty worn out toe boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) The top tow board will need some trimming, the bottom board seems to be cut out in the middle for trucks with the floor shifter, should be easy to trim it to fit the center inspection cover. Edited March 2, 2019 by peteandvanessa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2019 Finished up on installing new hard and soft brakelines, brake pistons and new shoes. Time to move onto the next job, installed the motor today, now with some minor basic wiring I can see if I can get the engine to run next weekend.... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Looks good! On that fan, try it and see how you like it. If you do alot of stop and go driving, it should be good to go. It is an industrial fan. IT moves a ton of air but is fairly noisy. If you spend more open road time, I would probably use the 4 blade unit off your other engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 1 hour ago, 59bisquik said: Looks good! On that fan, try it and see how you like it. If you do alot of stop and go driving, it should be good to go. It is an industrial fan. IT moves a ton of air but is fairly noisy. If you spend more open road time, I would probably use the 4 blade unit off your other engine. I think I'll like it, most of my driving will be short stop and start runs, and it might help with the heat we get here in the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I also found an aluminum radiator replacement that was much larger on ebay if you still need more cooling. It's for the factory V8 and fits with just a bit of trimming and a small extension to the hoses since it mounts further forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 1 hour ago, 59bisquik said: I also found an aluminum radiator replacement that was much larger on ebay if you still need more cooling. It's for the factory V8 and fits with just a bit of trimming and a small extension to the hoses since it mounts further forward. That's really good to know, do you have a link to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 15 hours ago, 59bisquik said: Looks good! On that fan, try it and see how you like it. If you do alot of stop and go driving, it should be good to go. It is an industrial fan. IT moves a ton of air but is fairly noisy. If you spend more open road time, I would probably use the 4 blade unit off your other engine. Don't use a 70 year old fan.... EVER. Get rid of it and get a new one / save your hood, radiator, life... Ask me how I know. They should all be wall hangers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) https://www.ebay.com/itm/54-55-56-1954-1955-1956-DODGE-PICKUP-TRUCK-V8-ENGINE-MOTOR-RADIATOR/153398006099?hash=item23b73bd153:g:SyIAAOSwcUBYHQZr Thats the link, however I keep forgetting you have an earlier truck. Dont know how different they are and if the radiator would work. Edited March 4, 2019 by 59bisquik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 2 hours ago, Adam H P15 D30 said: Don't use a 70 year old fan.... EVER. Get rid of it and get a new one / save your hood, radiator, life... Ask me how I know. They should all be wall hangers I'd be curious as to why a 70 year old fan properly maintained and/or restored would be an issue? I'd bet most here with a 218 are running 60+ year old fans with no issue. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: I'd be curious as to why a 70 year old fan properly maintained and/or restored would be an issue? I'd bet most here with a 218 are running 60+ year old fans with no issue. He's probably concerned with metal fatigue, especially around the rivet holes or center bend of the blade. . I've seen the results of a blade exiting the fan. One was a nice hole right thru the middle of the hood. The other was a nasty gash in the radiator. But, these where 60s fans in the 60s, so age had nothing to do with it. I've always suspected those happened because the fan blade was fractured when the stiffening ribs where stamped into them. Vibration extended that weak spot. Heavier blades may suffer from this more, IMO anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted March 5, 2019 Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: I'd be curious as to why a 70 year old fan properly maintained and/or restored would be an issue? I'd bet most here with a 218 are running 60+ year old fans with no issue. It only takes one time to make a believer. And yes, as stated above fatigue around the rivets. Edited March 5, 2019 by Adam H P15 D30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted March 5, 2019 Report Share Posted March 5, 2019 Just curious with the notes about the fan assembly, does anyone have a PN to reference for a replacement? Thanks. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 7, 2019 Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 I've seen several newer car fans crack/break but never an old four blade Mopar fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2019 (edited) Installed the flywheel, did some very basic wiring and fired up the replacement motor. Open headers (still have to sort that out), she's running sweet, need to make some adjustments once the radiator and cooling system is installed, but the motor started up pretty easily. Oil pressure is about 40 lbs at idle and is about 60-70 lbs when running at about 2500-3000 rpm, so pretty healthy. Many, many thanks to 59bisquik, this motor seems pretty damn solid.... Onto to installing the clutch and drive train and connecting everything back up. Edited March 9, 2019 by peteandvanessa 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 On 3/3/2019 at 6:18 PM, 59bisquik said: I also found an aluminum radiator replacement that was much larger on ebay if you still need more cooling. It's for the factory V8 and fits with just a bit of trimming and a small extension to the hoses since it mounts further forward. That's really good to know, do you have a link to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteandvanessa Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Just got the VIN officially verified on "Tug the Truck" (really easy process using an Authorized Third Party), now I have to go to the CA DMV tomorrow to present the paperwork to apply for a title. It also looks like I will have to take the truck to a weigh station to confirm the weight. Almost there with the official paperwork. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 4 minutes ago, peteandvanessa said: That's really good to know, do you have a link to it? I posted a link to it after you asked the other day. But I keep forgetting yours is older than mine. The radiator I have is for a 54+. I am not sure if it would work for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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