Jocko_51_B3B Posted January 2, 2019 Report Posted January 2, 2019 (edited) I have the original 218 in my B3B and it still has the original fuel pump. I ordered a rebuild kit from Then & Now. When I go to reinsert the pump into the side of the block it seems to require a lot of force to get it to butt up to the block. Is that normal? Edited January 19, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 2, 2019 Report Posted January 2, 2019 (edited) The diaphragm is hooked onto the actuator arm. You may need to remove the pivot pin, pull the arm out to get it unhooked. Sometimes you can push down on the diaphragm and angle the stem forward to get it unhooked from the arm. Edited January 2, 2019 by Merle Coggins Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 2, 2019 Report Posted January 2, 2019 30 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: The diaphragm is hooked onto the actuator arm. You may need to remove the pivot pin, pull the arm out to get it unhooked. Sometimes you can push down on the diaphragm and angle the stem forward to get it unhooked from the arm. yes, push down and away from the actuator arm to unhook it. It's a hidden fastener type thing but once you figure it it's easy to do. Quote
JBNeal Posted January 2, 2019 Report Posted January 2, 2019 Installation depends a little on the location of the cam lobe...the arm rides on the lobe; it doesn't hurt to put some engine oil on the arm prior to installation... torquing the mounting bolts so the pump flange contacts the block begins pulling down on the diaphragm, so that when installed, the diaphragm does not fully bottom out during normal operation Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted January 3, 2019 Report Posted January 3, 2019 Mine 251 IND Chrysler engine is this Carter fuel pump that I rebuilt all. Quote
Jocko_51_B3B Posted January 8, 2019 Author Report Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) I purchased a rebuild kit from Then and Now. The original main diaphragm was cracked and very stiff. Unhooking it is a little tricky, but not too bad. Fortunately my pump had a small aluminum ID tag attached to it so T&N was able to easily identify the correct rebuild kit. I'm almost finished with the rebuild except for a couple of screws which I want to replace. The kit was perfect. It had all the right parts. Everything fit the way it should. Edited January 8, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B Quote
Radarsonwheels Posted January 9, 2019 Report Posted January 9, 2019 (edited) I got a new (reman?) pump from rockauto for my 230 flatty. It was pretty inexpensive and fed my weber carb just fine. And it even came with the little shot glass too! Before that I had a little inline electric pump- all that junk went in the trash. The rebuild looks pretty easy though. JBNeal has it right though- the mopar mechanical pumps have always made me nervous about cross threading the bolts since they go in under tension. At least it’s into cast iron and not aluminum like a later smallblock timing cover. It never hurts to chase the threads with a tap and make sure your bolts are clean with no burrs too. Edited January 9, 2019 by Radarsonwheels Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2019 Report Posted January 9, 2019 36 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said: I got a new (reman?) pump from rockauto for my 230 flatty. It was pretty inexpensive and fed my weber carb just fine. And it even came with the little shot glass too! Before that I had a little inline electric pump- all that junk went in the trash. The rebuild looks pretty easy though. JBNeal has it right though- the mopar mechanical pumps have always made me nervous about cross threading the bolts since they go in under tension. At least it’s into cast iron and not aluminum like a later smallblock timing cover. It never hurts to chase the threads with a tap and make sure your bolts are clean with no burrs too. it is a just a matter of placing the cam in the proper position so that the low spot of the cam lobe is in contact with the spring arm of the mechanical pump...only when you fail to follow this procedure do you fight undue spring tension on installation.... 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 9, 2019 Report Posted January 9, 2019 I have my "spare" fuel pump stored with a couple of studs, made from threaded rod. If I ever need to install this unit in the field I can insert the studs, slip the pump over them, and tighten down the nuts. Once it's snug against the block I can always remove one nut and stud at a time and reinsert the proper bolts. That's my theoretical plan anyway. I haven't needed to put it to a test yet. This idea came to me as I was replacing the pump in a parking lot several years ago. I struggled to get the bolts started, especially the second bolt, as I had limited reach with both arms together. I eventually got it, but I kept thinking that if I had long enough bolts, or studs, it would have been much easier. Quote
FlashBuddy Posted January 9, 2019 Report Posted January 9, 2019 10 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: I have my "spare" fuel pump stored with a couple of studs, made from threaded rod. If I ever need to install this unit in the field I can insert the studs, slip the pump over them, and tighten down the nuts. Once it's snug against the block I can always remove one nut and stud at a time and reinsert the proper bolts. That's my theoretical plan anyway. I haven't needed to put it to a test yet. This idea came to me as I was replacing the pump in a parking lot several years ago. I struggled to get the bolts started, especially the second bolt, as I had limited reach with both arms together. I eventually got it, but I kept thinking that if I had long enough bolts, or studs, it would have been much easier. ...or longer arms! 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 9, 2019 Report Posted January 9, 2019 3 minutes ago, FlashBuddy said: ...or longer arms! I haven't found a way to pack longer arms under the seat... ? 1 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2019 Report Posted January 9, 2019 Instead of a Trunk Monkey, you need to look into a Truck Orangutan....could save you if mums wants to know where them red hairs come from also.....? Quote
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