RTS 5215

[RTS 5215]

1947 DODGE 6 CYL. Replaced coil, plugs, wires, points, condenser, rotor, cap with good original/ replacement parts. All I'm getting when I turn it over is some backfiring out of the carb. I've checked wire locations against manual several times, Any ideas?

[Plymouthy Adams]

did you remove the distributor to perform the tune up?  If so, you may have gotten the rotor position 180 out

[Merle Coggins]

Need more data to formulate suggestions...

 

1. I assume you pulled the distributor out when you replaced the points, etc? Did you reinstall it with the rotor pointing the same direction it was when removed? It sounds like it may be 180 degrees off.

2. How did you set the points gap/dwell?

3. Have you connected a timing light yet, or set your static timing with a test light?

Edited June 4, 2018 by Merle Coggins

[RTS 5215]

I did not remove the distributor, I was able to access it from outside the truck. Set the points to .20 per manual. Replaced the little ground wire while in there, it was losing it's insulation, the points seem to be opening and closing when the lobes come round correctly, I was just reading about static timing, I just didn't think I could have gotten that far out. It ran 15 years ago when I parked it in the barn.

The motor wouldn't turn by hand when I first started messing with it so I poured some marvel oil down the plug holes and started moving things back and forth with the fan to free everything up, can turning the motor counterclockwise have screwed up the timing?

[RTS 5215]

Pulled the #1 plug (closest to radiator?) and turned it over until I got a blast of combustion. Pulled rotor cap, started my wires where the rotor pointed in firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4. Nothing but a couple backfires, moved them all 1 hole back and got the same result. Professionally rebuilt carburetor.

[RTS 5215]

By the way, I did drop the pan and clean out the marvel oil, along with 3 pounds of sludge, removed and cleaned out the filter canister and put in a new filter.

[Merle Coggins]

So, you cranked until you got compression on #1. Did you then rotate the crank to the 0 TDC mark on the pulley before indexing your wires?

Maybe you have an exhaust valve, or 2, that are sticking open causing the backfire through the carb?

[RTS 5215]

I did rotate before indexing, found my problem last nite, someone suggested I do a compression test. 2 dead cylinders and the other four are marginal and sporatic so it sounds like I'm headed for a valve job / head gasket. I've found a couple different parts houses to get the valves springs , gaskets etc..., anyone have a favorite?

[Plymouthy Adams]

lots of missing information in your first post, I personally assumed by the wording of your post that you did a tune up on a running truck and ended up with a resulting problem from your actions...had no clue this truck was not ever running before the tune up.

[RTS 5215]

Sorry, I'm unaccustomed to looking for advice on forums, my other projects have been small block Chevy's and I have gotten by with my own experience. My apologies.

Truck ran when I parked it 15 yrs ago. 50k orig miles, very little rust, clean title. Put some mystery oil in the cylinders and worked the fan back and forth by hand to free everything up this winter. Dropped pan, cleaned, pulled filter canister and cleaned, installed new battery and turned over for a while to distribute oil. No spark to coil, replaced wire from starter motor to ignition, no spark out of coil, replaced coil, spark to distributor but not to plugs, installed ignition tune up kit, now I have spark everywhere. Carb leaked if you pour gas into it from can, I had a professional rebuild done by a fella that does my Rochesters . Pumping fuel from a can, not the old tank, got fuel and fire but now when I crank it over all I get are some occasional burps out of carb. Just thought maybe someone would say, hey dummy, you forgot A, B , or C

[BigDaddyO]

I think it's B. But that's just a guess.

 

[kencombs]

Before giving up and starting a rebuild, I'd pull the valve covers to see if the dead cylinders have a stuck valve and probably be able to free them up from there.

 

If you can, and then get it started, some run time may bring the compression up considerably.  Rings and oil can clean up cylinders that probably have a light coat of rust from long storage.  Not ideal, but you may have a runner.

 

once the valves are free, I'd also pull and clean the new plugs, just to remove any oil or debris fouling from the unsticking efforts.

 

good luck!

 

Edit to add:  One other 'trick', jump it with a 12v battery, short bursts only.  The added speed will help the compression while cranking as there is less time spent on the compression stroke, so less leakage.

 

Also gives a hotter spark.

Edited June 5, 2018 by kencombs

[RTS 5215]

Thank you!! I'll do it

[FlashBuddy]

...and report your results. Nothing g worse than an unfinished story.

[RTS 5215]

Ok, today's update, these intake/ exaust manifolds are a beast to get off, ugh

[JBNeal]

It helps if ya do some salty shouting at the rusty nuts...also that hidden bolt beneath the intake manifold is a real blankety blank

[RTS 5215]

That's funny, the salty shouts were flying last nite. I'm going to take off the inner/outer fender as well, It seems like it will be a lot easier to get into the tighter spots.

[RTS 5215]

Update, valve covers are off and after some marvel oil and pb blaster everyone is moving nicely except 1 valve on #4 stays open, it pops closed if I stick a screwdriver in the spring but on the next rotation stays up, suggestions?

[kencombs]

Turn the engine until that one is closed  and the piston at TDC.  spray the valve stem with the magic oil of your choice.  Pry the valve open with a small bar/screwdriver.  I have a cheap HF  prybar set,  the little ones with screwdriver type handle that work good for things like that.  With the spark plug removed, fog the cylinder with a spray lube, using the little tube to direct it toward the valve.  pry the valve closed.  repeat.  repeat  repeat..........eventually it will free up,  hopefully.  

[RTS 5215]

Thank you

[RTS 5215]

Time to revisit. My valve train is all free and turning nicely. I accidentally discovered my original problem with the engine not firing was most likely due to the muffler being rusted completely solid so no exhaust could escape, so the engine wouldn't fire and the backfiring up through the carb. Oh well, learned something there. Now that I am reassembling it seems to me that the intake / exhaust manifolds should be bolted back together before bolting them back onto the block. Opinions anyone?

[Jeff Balazs]

31 minutes ago, RTS 5215 said:

Time to revisit. My valve train is all free and turning nicely. I accidentally discovered my original problem with the engine not firing was most likely due to the muffler being rusted completely solid so no exhaust could escape, so the engine wouldn't fire and the backfiring up through the carb. Oh well, learned something there. Now that I am reassembling it seems to me that the intake / exhaust manifolds should be bolted back together before bolting them back onto the block. Opinions anyone?

Yes put them back together but do not tighten the connection bolts until you have done an intilial torquing of the manifold mounts.

Jeff

[RTS 5215]

Thank you Sir.