casper50 Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 Ran my coupe about 10 minutes last week. It died and I couldn't get it restarted. I figured that I had flooded it so I left it for a week. Still won't even try and start. Lots of spark at the points but when I put a spark light on the plugs I get two or three good sparks and then very few. Getting plenty of gas. I'm not a mechanic. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks. Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 Do you have a spare coil you can use to see if it will start then? If not,at least pull your coil wire from the coil and the dist cap,inspect both ends,and if they seem ok,use a different coil wire anyhow and see if that fixes the problem. You have checked the points and made sure they aren't burnt and pitted,right? I used to check condensers when I was a kid by energizing them and then grounded it to look for a spark,but can't remember for the life of me know how I energized them. Had to have been simple,though. Kids in the 50's whose fathers hated working on cars didn't have access to auto electric test instruments,and my father wouldn't even help me fix a flat on my bicycle or allow me to use his crescent wrenches to even take the wheel off. Quote
casper50 Posted April 28, 2018 Author Report Posted April 28, 2018 I was thinking coil also but wasn't sure. Don't have access to another 6 volt coil but I'll check the wire. \ Quote
JerseyHarold Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 Check the small wire going to the points inside the distributor. They have been known to fail or short out. 2 Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 What condition are the spark plugs? Remove and clean/replace them. When removed give each cylinder a blast of compressed air through the spark plug hole to clear any flooded condition. Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 19 minutes ago, casper50 said: I was thinking coil also but wasn't sure. Don't have access to another 6 volt coil but I'll check the wire. \ Well,new 6 volt coils are pretty cheap,and it's always a good idea to carry a new coil,points,condensor,rotor cap,and distributor cap in your trunk. If you make road trips,it's a good idea to carry a spare new water pump and fuel pump. Don't forget,unlike your new ride,these are cars that can be fixed alongside the road if you have the parts and some simple tools. And you can buy it all for less than the price of ONE roll-back ride. Quote
casper50 Posted April 28, 2018 Author Report Posted April 28, 2018 new everything. plugs, wires points, condenser and coil. Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 4 minutes ago, casper50 said: new everything. plugs, wires points, condenser and coil. Well,as we all know,even "new" can fail or even be bad right out of the box,but given that your ride is a new rebuild,I am guessing you might want to check your grounds to make sure paint isn't keeping you from getting a good contact. Maybe even consider running a new ground wire from the engine to the firewall and/or chassis Quote
dpollo Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 Had one case where the engine started and ran briefly, then died and would not restart. After a lot of checking I found that the owner had installed a set of spark plugs intended for a Chev 6. J11 Y s they were with extended tips . The intake valves on the Plymouth had closed up the gaps. No damage but no flame either. Quote
casper50 Posted April 28, 2018 Author Report Posted April 28, 2018 I've run the engine for a few hours before. Checked the coil on the meter. 1.5ohm - to + and 8.8 - to coil wire. But now no spark at the points at all. Quote
busycoupe Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 Check the point gap. It is possible that your points slipped. I had that happen once, about a month after I had installed new points. The car started hard a couple of times, then just would not start. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 if new points....inspect for burnt contacts, indication of condenser failure.... see if you have voltage on coil....with points open should read voltage both sides of coil...when points close, coil is in saturation, voltage on distributor side goes to zero and when the points open, you should get your high tension spark to ground from the coil tower... Quote
Niel Hoback Posted April 28, 2018 Report Posted April 28, 2018 Did you put a tiny dab of grease on the point arm so it doesn't wear down and close the gap? Quote
casper50 Posted April 28, 2018 Author Report Posted April 28, 2018 yes but the engine only has about 2 hours on it. All in the garage. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 put a new today coil on. Nothing. Put a volt meter on the + and - terminals of the coil and turned the key on. Nothing. Shouldn't there be voltage going to the coil when the key is on? Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 13 minutes ago, casper50 said: put a new today coil on. Nothing. Put a volt meter on the + and - terminals of the coil and turned the key on. Nothing. Shouldn't there be voltage going to the coil when the key is on? Yes,you need to hot wire it to see if the problem is with your ignition switch. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 Nothing. Wire from - battery to distributer to coil wire produces no spark either. Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 9 minutes ago, casper50 said: Nothing. Wire from - battery to distributer to coil wire produces no spark either. Try disconnecting all the wires to the switch to make sure it isn't internal. When you hot wire it you should have fire to the points even with the switch turned off. If you don't,you have a short in your circuit between the ignition switch and the engine. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) k Might be a bit hard to get under the dash. I had shoulder surgery a month ago and laying on that shoulder isn't good. I'll struggle though. Edited April 29, 2018 by casper50 Quote
knuckleharley Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) 13 minutes ago, casper50 said: k Might be a bit hard to get under the dash. I had shoulder surgery a month ago and laying on that shoulder isn't good. I'll struggle though. Remove the switch lock ring,and then pull the switch out and let it hang. That would be a good time to take your test light to the contacts on the back before you remove any wiring to see if the start circuit lights up when you turn the key. BTW,what the HELL are you doing up this early? It's early here on the east coast,so it has to be the middle of the night where you are. Edited April 29, 2018 by knuckleharley Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) wife works nights and I used to until the surgery. I stay on night schedule with her for now. Disconnecting the switch didn't help. So I removed the points and gave them a few strokes with 1000 grit. Replaced and good spark, for about 2 or 3 revolutions then so weak I can't see it in the dark but can hear it snapping when I open the points with a screwdriver. . Edited April 29, 2018 by casper50 Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil, the small wire. what voltage do you have at the coil terminals now. That should be battery voltage unless you've got a resistor in place. Quote
casper50 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Posted April 29, 2018 - side or + side? they are both small wires. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 29, 2018 Report Posted April 29, 2018 the one going to the distributor. That takes the distributor out of the equation. Quote
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