MackTheFinger Posted May 25, 2018 Report Posted May 25, 2018 You live in Missouri and have a Missouri title that looks like it matches the frame number. There's no reason to take it to the troopers. Get the car insured, inspected, licensed, and drive it. If anyone ever questions your new title have 'em crawl under the car and look at the numbers. Keep a copy of the title you have now if it makes you feel better. Call Jeff City and they'll tell you the same thing. Been there, done that. KH, Missouri doesn't send someone to your place to inspect your vehicle if the numbers are FUBAR'ed or you're building one from parts you take it to a Highway Patrol office and they look at it and your receipts. If the paperwork's in the system, like this guy's, nobody really pays any attention to it. Quote
Dale Gribble Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Posted May 25, 2018 1 minute ago, MackTheFinger said: You live in Missouri and have a Missouri title that looks like it matches the frame number. There's no reason to take it to the troopers. Get the car insured, inspected, licensed, and drive it. If anyone ever questions your new title have 'em crawl under the car and look at the numbers. Keep a copy of the title you have now if it makes you feel better. Call Jeff City and they'll tell you the same thing. Been there, done that. KH, Missouri doesn't send someone to your place to inspect your vehicle if the numbers are FUBAR'ed or you're building one from parts you take it to a Highway Patrol office and they look at it and your receipts. If the paperwork's in the system, like this guy's, nobody really pays any attention to it. I live in Missouri and it has an Iowa title ... ID/OD verification is required to register. And again, I want to update the title to reflect the serial in the door jam , as I don't wish to try and explain to any officer on the side of the road how to decipher a frame number that's hidden behind the tire ... That is just begging to be towed instantly and have a nightmare begin ... Any patrol officer that opens the door of that car and the numbers on the plate are not consistent with what his computer is saying is going to immediately slap some silver bracelets on to me and some tow hooks onto the car ... Quote
MackTheFinger Posted May 25, 2018 Report Posted May 25, 2018 (edited) You bought the car in mid-Missouri with an Iowa title? Okay, I guess I can see how that might happen. Don't tell the DMV about it if it's a skipped title. That's illegal all on it's own. Anyway, ID/OD doesn't have to be done by a state trooper. You should be on a first name basis with your local DMV office by now. They can get this done in about a minute. Edited May 25, 2018 by MackTheFinger Quote
Dale Gribble Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Posted May 25, 2018 16 minutes ago, MackTheFinger said: You bought the car in mid-Missouri with an Iowa title? Okay, I guess I can see how that might happen. Don't tell the DMV about it if it's a skipped title. That's illegal all on it's own. Anyway, ID/OD doesn't have to be done by a state trooper. You should be on a first name basis with your local DMV office by now. They can get this done in about a minute. Ahem * I see nothing , I know nothing ..... Far as I know he was an Iowa resident last , I don't ask questions , lol .... I called dmv and they said as long as I can convince the inspection station to use the same number on the title I should be fine . Although for peace of mind I think I'm still going the HP route to reflect the door post serial to the title . And there's no other way around that . Dmv cannot do corrections without a form 551 ... Quote
MackTheFinger Posted May 25, 2018 Report Posted May 25, 2018 You shouldn't have any problem with the inspection station and I doubt the HP will care, either. That number could have been messed up for the last 50 years. I agree it would be best to have the title match the door post number. Makes it easier for everyone to understand. Post your results after this is all done. Even if they lock you up jail ain't all that bad..? Quote
knuckleharley Posted May 25, 2018 Report Posted May 25, 2018 (edited) 23 minutes ago, MackTheFinger said: You shouldn't have any problem with the inspection station and I doubt the HP will care, either. That number could have been messed up for the last 50 years. I agree it would be best to have the title match the door post number. Makes it easier for everyone to understand. Post your results after this is all done. Even if they lock you up jail ain't all that bad..? I live in NC. I bought a 49 Dodge B1 pu from a guy in Virginia with a clear Va title,and the engine numbers matched the numbers on the title. I ended up selling it to a friend of mine and he took it to the DVM to get a new title. What he got was a registration good for 1 year,and tags so he could drive it. The DMV inspector,who he knows very well since he runs a commercial garage that does state inspections,showed up a month or so later,inspected the truck and the title,filled out his form,and sent it in. The NC DMV refused to issue him a title to the truck because the engine number didn't match the frame number. Yes,it DID match the title number on the valid Va title,which the state of NC destroyed,btw,but NC doesn't recognize engine numbers for title purposes. They told him he could appeal and they would give him another 1 year registration,but now he's pissed and just has it parked because he doesn't want to spend any more time or money on it when he isn't sure if he will get a title or not. Keep in mind that this was a perfectly valid title in Va,and unusual even for Va because most 1949 trucks have had the engine changed,or have no engine at all. In that case,you can get a title based on the chassis number. IF the NC DMV had returned the VA title he could take it to VA and get a new title in his name and have it changed to show the chassis number,but they don't do that. I had the same problem with my 37 Dodge 1 ton truck that was sold new to a Va city as a fire truck. I now have a 1937 Dodge truck with a NC VIN number that is not even remotely related to any MOPAR VIN number. BTW,my friend is a restorer,and he doesn't want and won't even accept a NC DMV VIN number for his truck. So it's just going to sit there until it rusts away. Edited May 25, 2018 by knuckleharley Quote
austinsailor Posted May 25, 2018 Report Posted May 25, 2018 Dale, I've changed from motor to body # before. State trooper came to me, verified the numbers, signed the form and it was done. No hassle. As to the 5 vs 6, with him signing the form you'll be changing to the body # and leaving that mess behind. I have no doubt, with him standing there looking at it, he'll see the problem and fix it. His signature on the form is the gold stamp to fix it. i would not take it to the HP inspection station. I've done that route with several things and although I always accomplished what I wanted, it was always a bit of a hassle. I think the lowest IQ troopers are stationed there. technically, it can be done by any police officer, city, state or county, but I was never able to get a local one to do it. Quote
Dale Gribble Posted May 27, 2018 Author Report Posted May 27, 2018 Beautiful day for brake work ...... Now if I could find the link to the homemade brake shoe adjustment tool so I can slip the drums back on .... Quote
Dale Gribble Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Posted May 30, 2018 Looking for one front and one rear drum , shipped to 64126 .... Need them for a brake tool , PayPal ready . Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 30, 2018 Report Posted May 30, 2018 only If the drum you are installing is same ID will this be totally effective, however, your wear should be even this way... Quote
dodgeguy Posted June 1, 2018 Report Posted June 1, 2018 I used to hang out with cousins in Lilburn and New Madrid area on 6 ditch. I grew up thinking all little creeks and ditches were numbered! Quote
pflaming Posted June 3, 2018 Report Posted June 3, 2018 On 5/31/2018 at 7:34 PM, dodgeguy said: I used to hang out with cousins in Lilburn and New Madrid area on 6 ditch. I grew up thinking all little creeks and ditches were numbered! They were but only by the moonlighters! LOL Quote
kalve Posted June 9, 2018 Report Posted June 9, 2018 good find nice car What are your plans for it? Quote
Dale Gribble Posted June 14, 2018 Author Report Posted June 14, 2018 On June 9, 2018 at 6:49 PM, kalve said: good find nice car What are your plans for it? Brakes and drive it .... Maybe lower it a touch more .... Otherwise , just enjoy it until it gives out , then later model drivetrain ... Quote
dodgeguy Posted July 4, 2018 Report Posted July 4, 2018 Thought of another long forgotten scary experience in south east Missouri. Mack the finger has probably heard this one. Anybody know what the "Dolnick Lights " are? Floating colored gas out over the fields like ghost. My aunt used to say yonder come the neighbors to visit, or its just the "Dolnick lights" used to scare the pants off me!!! Quote
MackTheFinger Posted July 4, 2018 Report Posted July 4, 2018 15 hours ago, dodgeguy said: Thought of another long forgotten scary experience in south east Missouri. Mack the finger has probably heard this one. Anybody know what the "Dolnick Lights " are? Floating colored gas out over the fields like ghost. My aunt used to say yonder come the neighbors to visit, or its just the "Dolnick lights" used to scare the pants off me!!! Never saw them myself but have heard the stories. My brother and some of his buddies went' out looking for the Farrenburg lights and he says he thinks he saw them but they were all really drunk so.....? Quote
Dale Gribble Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Posted July 7, 2018 On July 3, 2018 at 8:02 PM, dodgeguy said: Thought of another long forgotten scary experience in south east Missouri. Mack the finger has probably heard this one. Anybody know what the "Dolnick Lights " are? Floating colored gas out over the fields like ghost. My aunt used to say yonder come the neighbors to visit, or its just the "Dolnick lights" used to scare the pants off me!!! I seem to remember reading someone about that in a book years ago .... Near railroad tracks or something ... on an unrelated note , we have the front brakes reassembled and hopefully adjusted correctly . But removing the rear drums is testing me . If I read the FSM correctly , the puller attaches to the lug studs and a slide hammer is used to pull the drum . We have pulled and pulled on both sides . The wheels rotate just fine so I know they are not frozen . They just won't pull off . And yes we removed the nut in the center . Quote
62champ Posted July 10, 2018 Report Posted July 10, 2018 Not sure what puller the FSM shows, but Studebaker used a similar type of arrangement on its tapered rear axles. They used a puller similar to the one pictured below. It pulled the drums off a friend D-24 a couple weeks back with no problems. Tighten it down pretty tight, then smack the end of the puller shaft. One thing you might do is turn that castle nut around and run it flush with the end of the axle - this will keep the end of the axle from getting damaged by the puller shaft and will catch the drum when it pops. Good luck. Quote
knuckleharley Posted July 10, 2018 Report Posted July 10, 2018 5 minutes ago, 62champ said: Not sure what puller the FSM shows, but Studebaker used a similar type of arrangement on its tapered rear axles. They used a puller similar to the one pictured below. It pulled the drums off a friend D-24 a couple weeks back with no problems. Tighten it down pretty tight, then smack the end of the puller shaft. One thing you might do is turn that castle nut around and run it flush with the end of the axle - this will keep the end of the axle from getting damaged by the puller shaft and will catch the drum when it pops. Good luck. Pulls old Ford.Mercury, and IHC,too. I MAY be wrong,but I think it is also necessary on SOME Rambler/AMC vehicles. You can buy one new from amazon,ebay,or one of the other usual suspects for 50 bucks or less,and it's value is priceless because when you need it,you really,really need it. Quote
Young Ed Posted July 10, 2018 Report Posted July 10, 2018 Just now, knuckleharley said: Pulls old Ford.Mercury, and IHC,too. I MAY be wrong,but I think it is also necessary on SOME Rambler/AMC vehicles. You can buy one new from amazon,ebay,or one of the other usual suspects for 50 bucks or less,and it's value is priceless because when you need it,you really,really need it. Yup and for a long time. Dads early 80s CJ still used it Quote
Dale Gribble Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Posted July 11, 2018 Good to know.... Found one on eBay for 42$ .... Guess I'll order it when i get back to Kansas City Monday ... Quote
Dale Gribble Posted July 24, 2018 Author Report Posted July 24, 2018 Got the hub tool today . Noticed an abnormal amount of lateral movement on one side . What's the correct end play ? I couldn't find any spec in the FSM , perhaps I overlooked it ?? Quote
Dale Gribble Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Posted August 10, 2018 Got the brakes bled today .... thinking that nightmare is on the home stretch ..... the stock tires are dry rotted and not very safe looking . So for the meantime I think these are going to be the rolling stock , as the tires were replaced last summer . Quote
DJ194950 Posted August 10, 2018 Report Posted August 10, 2018 You have to have hydraulics for suspension if you are going to use those wheels. It's the law!! ? DJ 2 Quote
Dale Gribble Posted August 11, 2018 Author Report Posted August 11, 2018 I already have one car with hydraulics, I will not do that again. Airride- maybe. And that’s an awful big maybe. I just sold a bagged truck last year . I don’t want to make any mods to the frame really .... what’s there works .... these wheels are just laying in my basement .... Quote
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