New 1950 dodge Truck to me

[5027 steve]

It says long and short......the 3 -1/2 studs are NOT for the 1/2' ton or mine maybe shrunk .....lol for what I'm finding control this truck it could be.... THANKS for the help 

[5027 steve]

5 hours ago, P15-D24 said:

This is why an investment in a factory parts book is a very good idea. It has all that info in one place for the entire vehicle.

Could you tell exactly what book you are referring too???? Cause I would buy it in a heartbeat....I have 3 different parts books 

[Merle Coggins]

I would highly recommend buying a manifold stud kit from a supplier such as Vintage Power Wagons. It’ll have all of the proper nuts and washers that are needed as well. The kit for a 230 will be the same for a 218. Power Wagons didn’t use the 218 so they don’t list that engine size. 

[5027 steve]

13 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

I would highly recommend buying a manifold stud kit from a supplier such as Vintage Power Wagons. It’ll have all of the proper nuts and washers that are needed as well. The kit for a 230 will be the same for a 218. Power Wagons didn’t use the 218 so they don’t list that engine size. 

Never new they existed Merle Thanks ...this is just what I needed .....THANK YOU 

[5027 steve]

So we have our box off and it's sitting on our back yard and I'm thinking but tell me if I'm wrong....is it possible to do the wood bed without the bed on the truck ??? Like install the boards and strips on bed and then lift bed back onto truck???? Although it will be heavier is this possible????? 

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, 5027 steve said:

So we have our box off and it's sitting on our back yard and I'm thinking but tell me if I'm wrong....is it possible to do the wood bed without the bed on the truck ??? Like install the boards and strips on bed and then lift bed back onto truck???? Although it will be heavier is this possible????? 

 

see my thread on this.  This is exactly what I did.

 

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

So we have our box off and it's sitting on our back yard and I'm thinking but tell me if I'm wrong....is it possible to do the wood bed without the bed on the truck ??? Like install the boards and strips on bed and then lift bed back onto truck???? Although it will be heavier is this possible????? 

I believe that is how the restoration guide recommends it be done too. I did mine some of each with final assembly on the truck if I remember correctly...... hard to believe it was almost 17 years ago!

[5027 steve]

2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

see my thread on this.  This is exactly what I did.

 

Thanks I'll try and look it up ,so I take it it can be done ....

[5027 steve]

3 hours ago, Young Ed said:

I believe that is how the restoration guide recommends it be done too. I did mine some of each with final assembly on the truck if I remember correctly...... hard to believe it was almost 17 years ago!

I'm intrigued what is the restoration guide???? 

[Young Ed]

3 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

I'm intrigued what is the restoration guide???? 

https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Pickups-History-Restoration-1918-1971/dp/0879384913/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519697460&sr=8-2&keywords=dodge+truck+restoration+guide

looks like it's out of print. I might have an extra one....

[ggdad1951]

10 hours ago, Young Ed said:

https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Pickups-History-Restoration-1918-1971/dp/0879384913/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519697460&sr=8-2&keywords=dodge+truck+restoration+guide

looks like it's out of print. I might have an extra one....

 

it's a good book.  Just remember as awesome as Bunn was...it's not 100% on the nose accurate on some things.

[5027 steve]

I have this one ....is it the same???

[ggdad1951]

not the same, but the B series one is more oriented towards the Pilot House trucks than the one that covers more decades.  AS I said, Bunn was a true legend of knowledge, but had a few things wrong (see the 610T radio snafu).

 

 

[Reg Evans]

On ‎2‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 4:20 AM, ggdad1951 said:

not the same, but the B series one is more oriented towards the Pilot House trucks than the one that covers more decades.  AS I said, Bunn was a true legend of knowledge, but had a few things wrong (see the 610T radio snafu).

 

 

 

But what about this 610T photofact for a 53 Pilothouse ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-DODGE-PICKUP-TRUCK-TOWN-PANEL-POWER-WAGON-PLATFORM-AM-RADIO-SERVICE-MANUAL/232658805049?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49923%26meid%3D763b00a44ba44730a0684055c304b1a2%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D232624168452%26itm%3D232658805049&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

[5027 steve]

Are all the seats the same up to 53????I just found a 52 seat and was wandering if it would fit in my 50 ????

[ggdad1951]

4 hours ago, Reg Evans said:

 

But what about this 610T photofact for a 53 Pilothouse ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-DODGE-PICKUP-TRUCK-TOWN-PANEL-POWER-WAGON-PLATFORM-AM-RADIO-SERVICE-MANUAL/232658805049?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49923%26meid%3D763b00a44ba44730a0684055c304b1a2%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D232624168452%26itm%3D232658805049&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

 

having had a 610T and having 3 trucks with factory cut outs (2 51 and 1 53) I can tell you for a FACT it will not fit a FACTORY cutout.

[Reg Evans]

Maybe it has something to do with what plant the trucks were built in.  I have also owned many Pilothouse trucks from 48-52.  Approx. 30. Never a 53 though.  The 51-52's that I owned never had the dash cut out for a radio.  I almost bought a 53 about 20 miles from me just because it had a 610T in it but the timing was not right financially.  Why does this Photofact specify for 53 trucks is it ain't so.  Not arguing.....just discussing.

 

 

 

[ggdad1951]

13 hours ago, Reg Evans said:

Maybe it has something to do with what plant the trucks were built in.  I have also owned many Pilothouse trucks from 48-52.  Approx. 30. Never a 53 though.  The 51-52's that I owned never had the dash cut out for a radio.  I almost bought a 53 about 20 miles from me just because it had a 610T in it but the timing was not right financially.  Why does this Photofact specify for 53 trucks is it ain't so.  Not arguing.....just discussing.

 

 

 

 

well I've sent examples of the cutout on my trucks to people on the left coast and they all have the same cut out.  Now MAYBE if the truck DIDN'T have a cut out and you wanted to put one in...

[Pilot House Pete]

On 11/20/2017 at 3:12 PM, johnsartain said:

I was hoping to find a nylon, or Teflon grommet but no luck.... yet. I am still looking.

I used the nylon ferruls from a sink supply line....perfect fit and nylon.....

[5027 steve]

Well finnally some time with Lucy....got inner and outer rear axle seals in and back together.... pulled old pinion seal out and that was a real bugger to do ...came out in 3 separate parts.....come to the conclusion that she won't be driven this summer .....what a bummer

[Young Ed]

15 minutes ago, 5027 steve said:

Well finnally some time with Lucy....got inner and outer rear axle seals in and back together.... pulled old pinion seal out and that was a real bugger to do ...came out in 3 separate parts.....come to the conclusion that she won't be driven this summer .....what a bummer

it's barely spring what is going on that you won't be able to drive it?

 

[Fernando Mendes]

On 08/10/2017 at 10:46 PM, 5027 steve said:

Do the vacuum opperated wiper motors really work or should I find a electric one???

I think it really works.

[5027 steve]

Whewwwww been a long while ....ok back at the truck part time ...I'm ready to install rear hubs and looking for instructions on how to do so ....I searched and couldn't find anything...so do I shine the axles???? Do I use anything on axle ??? Oil,anti sieze??? Also can't find axle nut torque specs in my books...Thanks Ahead of time...Steve

[Merle Coggins]

The tapered shaft/hub should be clean and dry. Don’t use anything abrasive to clean them. If you want to polish them just use a wire brush. Some use anti-seize or oil on the mating surfaces, but I don’t recommend it. The metal to metal connection when torqued up is key to the transfer of torque without putting extra load on the key. 

 

Get the nut TIGHT. As I recall, the torque spec is 160 ft/lbs minimum. So once you get to that toque, tighten enough more to line up the cotter pin. 

[squirebill]

Did you ever get the broken studs out?  You mention them being in the "head" but I'm guessing you mean the "block".  Anyhow, I looked up the manifold studs in my P17,P18 Plymouth car Parts list.  In their description in parenthesis they say "(heat treated cold drawn steel....)".  They have two listed with the same code number as in your parts list but each one has its own part number.   P/N 623 369  is  1 15/16 long, quantity is 4 and P/N 51 561 is 1 11/16 long, quantity is 7.   Like in your Parts List no description or picture of where the different lengths are to be placed.  Anyhow,  knowing  to heat treat steel you heat it up to a certain temperature and then quickly cool it (quench it) and also to soften it again you heat it up and let it completely cool slowly (anneal it);  maybe if you heat the broken stud as hot as you can and then let it cool you may be able to anneal it so you can drill it out.  Just a thought.