ggdad1951 Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 9 hours ago, 5027 steve said: Can someone please help me with the taillights on my truck, 1950 2b2 -did they come with the cast iron type mounts or the stamped sheet metal mounts,i see DCM has both but doesn't list any difference in models ....Thanks sheet metal. And for your door locks you are likley mising a spring that has broken that keeps the handle in the locked position. Pulling the latch mechanism is your best bet to figure out whatneeds fixing. Quote
FlashBuddy Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 9 hours ago, 5027 steve said: Can someone please help me with the taillights on my truck, 1950 2b2 -did they come with the cast iron type mounts or the stamped sheet metal mounts,i see DCM has both but doesn't list any difference in models ....Thanks Rear Tail Light Are we talking about the same thing? I only have one, did I get ripped off? Quote
5027 steve Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Posted October 27, 2017 Just now, FlashBuddy said: Rear Tail Light Are we talking about the same thing? I only have one, did I get ripped off? Yes originally I believe they only had the drivers side tailight....I will be adding the passenger side for safety....so the sheet Metal mounts are what came from the factory correct???? Quote
FlashBuddy Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 More angles '50 Rear Tail Light Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 12 minutes ago, 5027 steve said: Yes originally I believe they only had the drivers side tailight....I will be adding the passenger side for safety....so the sheet Metal mounts are what came from the factory correct???? correct on all accounts, sheet metal and only driver side stock Quote
FlashBuddy Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 16 minutes ago, 5027 steve said: Yes originally I believe they only had the drivers side tailight....I will be adding the passenger side for safety....so the sheet Metal mounts are what came from the factory correct???? Keep me in the loop. I think a little more than one wimpy light and a couple of reflectors are in order Quote
5027 steve Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Posted October 27, 2017 Sounds like a plan and I just found out I can order a new wiring harness WITH directional wires in it already.....so it will look like factory but have directionals Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 Yes, lock it with the inside handle. The cast iron tail light mounts are for stake bed trucks of earlier vintage, and often used on our era as well. For pickup box tail lights you want the stamped steel ones. I got left and right bracket from VPW for my truck. The are the same as the one that was on the left side when I got it, except not bent up as bad. Quote
5027 steve Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Posted October 27, 2017 I found these sweet old hubcaps and they fit my non stock wheels perfectly..whew dodged a bullet ...get it ???? Dodged a bullet. LOL. 1 Quote
Reg Evans Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 Oh yeah ! full wheel covers. I like the look as you can tell from my truck. 1 Quote
5027 steve Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Posted October 27, 2017 56 minutes ago, Reg Evans said: Oh yeah ! full wheel covers. I like the look as you can tell from my truck. Ol' Yeller. Looks good Quote
5027 steve Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Posted October 27, 2017 Ok so the shop manual talks that it's so easy to remove the front clip ....but looking at it it seems a million nuts and bolts to do , anyone have some insight??? Quote
Desotodav Posted October 27, 2017 Report Posted October 27, 2017 It is better to remove the hood and the radiator first as it makes the front clip ('dog house') a bit lighter. There is only about 8 bolts which hold it on at the rear - brackets down the 'A' pillar and up under the rear of the guard at the side of the firewall... and 2 more bolts under the radiator support channel piece. You also have to disconnect wiring for head lights and parker lights, but that's about it. I have found it best to have 3 people to lift is as you need to spread the rear section of the guards a little to get them around the mounting brackets. Quote
5027 steve Posted October 28, 2017 Author Report Posted October 28, 2017 16 hours ago, Desotodav said: It is better to remove the hood and the radiator first as it makes the front clip ('dog house') a bit lighter. There is only about 8 bolts which hold it on at the rear - brackets down the 'A' pillar and up under the rear of the guard at the side of the firewall... and 2 more bolts under the radiator support channel piece. You also have to disconnect wiring for head lights and parker lights, but that's about it. I have found it best to have 3 people to lift is as you need to spread the rear section of the guards a little to get them around the mounting brackets. Thank you Quote
5027 steve Posted October 28, 2017 Author Report Posted October 28, 2017 Ok spent the whole day with my son under the truck and removing some stuff and will have a few questions but first we have the 3 speed manual trany and looks like we have to pull it ...Does the shifter handle come out or do u have to try and pull the trany out with it on????? We are trying to Figuire it out...Thanks Quote
5027 steve Posted October 29, 2017 Author Report Posted October 29, 2017 How does a person remove the switches and cable knobs out of the dash???? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 29, 2017 Report Posted October 29, 2017 You have a 3 speed floor shift in a B2? Anyway, the top cover should come off, with the shift lever. The knobs should unscrew from the cables. Then the retaining nuts unscrew off the front. Check with Eric a.k.a. Town wagon for a tool for the retaining nuts. Quote
5027 steve Posted October 29, 2017 Author Report Posted October 29, 2017 Yes Merle we have a 1950 b2b with a 3 speed floor shift Quote
Los_Control Posted October 29, 2017 Report Posted October 29, 2017 Lift up the floor mats and remove the transmission cover to get to the trans. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 29, 2017 Report Posted October 29, 2017 That wouldn't be an original trans. Probably out of an earlier truck. A 3 speed would be column shift. Only the optional 4 speed would be floor shift. Quote
5027 steve Posted October 29, 2017 Author Report Posted October 29, 2017 59 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: That wouldn't be an original trans. Probably out of an earlier truck. A 3 speed would be column shift. Only the optional 4 speed would be floor shift. Yes I believe we have a late B1 that was rebadged a B2 by Dodge....on our door plate it is stamped B1+1 and I've seen others that are stamped B2 not B+1+1 I think the b1 had a 3 speed floor shift but I don't know too much about these I'm still a virgin.....but learning more each day .....Thanks for all the help Merle Quote
5027 steve Posted October 29, 2017 Author Report Posted October 29, 2017 Anyone see the problem here????? I can't believe someone would do this ....we had massive wobble in the back end ..........unreal Quote
5027 steve Posted October 29, 2017 Author Report Posted October 29, 2017 Are there bushings available for the wiper arm to motor stud???? Quote
JaysonK Posted October 29, 2017 Report Posted October 29, 2017 3 hours ago, 5027 steve said: Anyone see the problem here????? I can't believe someone would do this ....we had massive wobble in the back end ..........unreal I had the same boltswith acorns n the front of my truck....one was busted on the passenger side, tried to find a left hand replacement with no luck so I just swaped them all back to the original bolt. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 29, 2017 Report Posted October 29, 2017 19 hours ago, 5027 steve said: Yes I believe we have a late B1 that was rebadged a B2 by Dodge....on our door plate it is stamped B1+1 and I've seen others that are stamped B2 not B+1+1 I think the b1 had a 3 speed floor shift but I don't know too much about these I'm still a virgin.....but learning more each day .....Thanks for all the help Merle I've never heard of that happening. Some of the very late '49 B1's started to get the B2 features and were designated with an "X" at the end of the Serial Number. B2 upgrades included column shift, under dash park brake, and 45 Amp generator with 50-0-50 ammeter. Quote
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