new guy

[Plymouthy Adams]

per the parts book description, the black steering wheel and knobs make your car a SPECIAL so was a bit surprised to see a clock delete...

as for body trim clips....one can easily replace the old rusted out and often unavailable clips with the industry universal metal cut to fit..these can be altered to mimic a variety of clip styles including offsets....these clips can be found on ebay as just one source, if you buy right can get 50 with self sealing nuts delivered for approx. 37.00

 

[T120]

The Canadian built Dodge D24 came with the longer 25 inch block as mentioned. The bore is is 3 3/8" ,Stroke is 4 1/4" , Piston displacement is 228.12 cu. in. The shop manual will come in handy for your car. I managed to find one in a used book store. The Canadian shop manual is, WM-4184. The Canadian passenger car parts list manual is, WM-4205.

 

[neil and ethan]

special , that is interesting,  never knew they had other color knobs,  i will look for that  from now on .

   not a crack in the steering wheel 69- years later,  did they come with a backup light ? looks like the turn signals were after market 

    cheapo things,   would like to incorporate signal lights into existing tail lights. 

[classiccarjack]

5 hours ago, neil and ethan said:

it is canadian built D24C body#4603,paint 4002,trim 8AG,  my pics are too big, so i only get 1 per post,

got into a door today,to get windows/ latches, lubed,dirt out,need crank knobs, and see what it will take  to refinish wood grain trim, and door panels. will experiment to see if we can get close to the wood grain, or just a solid color.   build a batt. box next , or in trunk.  have a volunteer  to do some welding below the doors and a little on fenders.

I have a question on the body chrome, attachment. can you get new clips, or is there a better way, do you fill the holes and use a different system?

Wow!  Your interior dash is really nice!  That steering wheel looks amazing!

Unfortunately, if cars sit in Southern California, the sun destroys everything.

You are getting a really nice car back in action.  Please keep moving forward.

[1950 Special Deluxe]

On ‎2017‎-‎02‎-‎07 at 10:42 AM, neil and ethan said:

 

 on to the brakes,  from everything i have read here ,  pretty well a complete renew,   been pricing at napa and around,  online seems cheaper.

       any tips on best place to buy , or online's  that  deal in canada ?

           thanks for the site and the help

   

  

I got a new master cylinder for mine from here a few years ago.

He is fellow member Rockwood's contact

Norm Dumontier at Mid Canada Suspension 1-204-475-3399

[Plymouthy Adams]

not sure of your SPECIAL..here in the US I have a D24 Town Sedan Special....it has the special black knobs and steering wheel/column and brake handle etc.  Being a special it was my understanding they were of a very high option when delivered to the dealerships and or augmented by them prior to sale but you know how rumors abound.  I was not around at time of purchase and can only rely on what the original owner stated was equipped on the car when bought new.  Mine has from the factory, e-brake light, back up light, radio, clock, dual heaters, turn signals and electric fuel cap.  These specials were also available in export cars according to the parts book.  Enjoy the ride.

[neil and ethan]

  went for a drive in it today,, must have gone about 5 miles around the yard and down the road, 1st time in 15 years.

   still some issues,  biggest one is fuel tank, had trouble from start, runs fine out of a gas can, line is free and open to tank.  blew and sucked out old gas

it will not come out of tank, blew back and ran a wire in , but no luck,  for now have fuel hose thru filler tube.  just do not know what is going on.

  we were doing a little hod rodding in yard in the snow . and  it quit no spark , same as when we first tried to get it going.  , we will figure that one out.

   needs steering box play tightened up, it is way too much i think,  all over the road,  all the linkages seem tight,   but like 2-3  inches of play in the box.

  the other thing is it charges great , till you turn on lights , then discharges, maybe a short in light or wire somewhere..

    was nice to actually drive it.  we even managed to get stuck in snow  turning around on an approach, a mile away,  

 gave her a good work out getting un stuck.   

  

    

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, neil and ethan said:

  went for a drive in it today,, must have gone about 5 miles around the yard and down the road, 1st time in 15 years.<<

That is always a thrill. That first drive makes it all worthwhile.

1 hour ago, neil and ethan said:

   still some issues,  biggest one is fuel tank, had trouble from start, runs fine out of a gas can, line is free and open to tank.  blew and sucked out old gas

it will not come out of tank, blew back and ran a wire in , but no luck,  for now have fuel hose thru filler tube.  just do not know what is going on.

Sometimes the smart thing to do is just go ahead and bite the bullet,and buy a new gas tank. That way you don't have to worry about a new "slug" of rust and trash breaking free 6 months from now and strand you 100 miles from home and facing a tow bill/rollback bill that costs more than a new gas tank would have cost.

 

was nice to actually drive it.  we even managed to get stuck in snow  turning around on an approach, a mile away,  

 gave her a good work out getting un stuck.   

 

1 hour ago, neil and ethan said:

  

was nice to actually drive it.  we even managed to get stuck in snow  turning around on an approach, a mile away,  

 gave her a good work out getting un stuck.   

   Given where you live,one 40's Mopar option you might look into installing is the dual heater setup.

 

[oldmopar]

With the in tank bronze filters sometime the bottom of it is clogged with crud and if you have around a1/4 tank or less the filter will prevent the flow. The air may be blowing out of the top of the filter.

Just to show you all kinds of things can block a gas flow. I found this mouse blocking thein tank fuel filter in a 52 plymouth

 

 

Edited February 11, 2017 by oldmopar

[Dartgame]

when i was getting my 52 running - I was able to find repop gas tanks. I never considered trying to reuse the original one. Inside it looked like some sort experiment with it being submerged under sea water and then dried with caked petroleum varnish sludge and rust adhered to the inside of the tank. The intank filter was hardly recognizable and looked like some sort of disgusting donut. If you can salvage yours - great, otherwise see if you can get new one. You wont regret it.

Edited February 11, 2017 by Dartgame

[neil and ethan]

 found the spark problem, when i changed condensers last week.i dropped the screw holding it on.  

 used another one because  , i thought it hit the ground, .    it was in fact still in the distributor and on our tight turn it moved and shorted the ignition.

 

 

  

    

[Fastback50]

17 hours ago, neil and ethan said:

  went for a drive in it today,, must have gone about 5 miles around the yard and down the road, 1st time in 15 years.

   still some issues,  biggest one is fuel tank, had trouble from start, runs fine out of a gas can, line is free and open to tank.  blew and sucked out old gas

it will not come out of tank, blew back and ran a wire in , but no luck,  for now have fuel hose thru filler tube.

After much advice from different fellas on here I dropped my tank, filled it with 8 or 9 gallons of white vinegar, let it sit for four days, then took it to the local diy car wash and pressure washed the inside of it.  LOTS of rust and gunk had broken free thanks to the vinegar.  Then, I put a $2 inline filter on the line just after the tank.  So far, I've ran for 4 months without an issue.  I've never had an actual clog, but did switch the inline filter out once.  I don't know if I'd trust it on a long long trip, but it's a great temporary fix until you decide what you want to do.  Great looking car!

17 hours ago, neil and ethan said:

  

    

 

[knuckleharley]

11 minutes ago, jxc330 said:

After much advice from different fellas on here I dropped my tank, filled it with 8 or 9 gallons of white vinegar, let it sit for four days, then took it to the local diy car wash and pressure washed the inside of it.  LOTS of rust and gunk had broken free thanks to the vinegar.  Then, I put a $2 inline filter on the line just after the tank.  So far, I've ran for 4 months without an issue.  I've never had an actual clog, but did switch the inline filter out once.  I don't know if I'd trust it on a long long trip, but it's a great temporary fix until you decide what you want to do.  Great looking car!

 

Your tank must not have been that rusty. I once poured a old F-100 gas tank half full of white vinegar,and it it sat for 4 or 5 days before I was about to get to it to flush it out. By the time I got to it there were holes eaten out of the bottom. Which I guess means I was lucky because it was so paper thin it would have started leaking at any time,and this was one of the old ones that stand up behind the seat inside the cab.

Edited February 12, 2017 by knuckleharley

[Fastback50]

8 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

Your tank must not have been that rusty. I once poured a old F-100 gas tank half full of white vinegar,and it it sat for 4 or 5 days before I was about to get to it to flush it out. By the time I got to it there were holes eaten out of the bottom. Which I guess means I was lucky because it was so paper thin it would have started leaking at any time,and this was one of the old ones that stand up behind the seat inside the cab.

Yeah, There is still a sort of speckled layer of rust on the inside of the tank, but that's flaking off slowly and getting caught by the filter.  Not perfect by any means, but it keeps me rolling down the road for now   

[knuckleharley]

7 minutes ago, jxc330 said:

Yeah, There is still a sort of speckled layer of rust on the inside of the tank, but that's flaking off slowly and getting caught by the filter.  Not perfect by any means, but it keeps me rolling down the road for now   

Having had experience with Harley gas tanks with custom paint that were "sealed" and then months later having my gas line constantly clogged by sealer eaten by ethanol,I could live with a little rust inside. Especially in a car you drive regularly. The gas sloshing around and being refilled will probably keep the rust at bay. If you park it for a while you are going to have to drain the tank and pour enough oil in the tank to coat the bottom,though.

Ethanol creates rust. This is why my automatic reaction now is to just buy a new gas tank and be done with it. Poly tanks are probably the best for driver cars. Inexpensive compared to the others,and there are no conditions where rust will be created in them. Then steel tanks that are galvanized inside,followed by stainless steel tanks. Stainless tanks are unquestionably the strongest,but they are also the most expensive and most noticeable as not being stock. Poly tanks are black,so people just don't even notice them for the most part.

And really,in the long run it is cheaper to just buy a new gas tank,install it once,and be done with it than it is to pay a tow bill and then take it out,dump the gas in it,flush it out,blow out the gas lines,and replace the filters. Even if you figure your own time as only being worth minimum wage. If you have to pay a shop to do it,you are nuts if you don't put a new gas tank in it before your first drive.

[Fastback50]

I agree with the above---I'm just cheap and saving for disc conversion I think at this point, so it's just a matter of time before I probably cough up the $250 for a new steel tank.  Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a poly replacement made anywhere....

[knuckleharley]

6 hours ago, jxc330 said:

I agree with the above---I'm just cheap and saving for disc conversion I think at this point, so it's just a matter of time before I probably cough up the $250 for a new steel tank.  Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a poly replacement made anywhere....

I couldn't find a poly tank either when I needed a new tank for my 48 Plymouth or my 51 Ford,and ended up buying coated steel tanks from Tanks,Inc.

[dale]

Start out by spraying every bolt and nut you can find on the car with penetrating oil for a month.

[RobertKB]

3 minutes ago, dale said:

Start out by spraying every bolt and nut you can find on the car with penetrating oil for a month.

...... and re-assemble using an anti-seize product. 

[knuckleharley]

4 hours ago, dale said:

Start out by spraying every bolt and nut you can find on the car with penetrating oil for a month.

I just bought a 55 Plymouth 4dr for parts last week because it has a 230 in it with the actual automatic transmission. It had been sitting for over 8 years since last started,so it was stuck pretty tight. A socket with a 2 foot handle attached to it and pushed on to "one grunt" didn't impress it at all.

BTW,if anyone has a single barrel 230 carb with the dashpot for a automatic trans they want to sell,I sure could use one.

Someone told me about Kroil penetrating oil recently,so I bought some to use on the Plymouth. I put 1 ounce in each cylinder,and when I put the 2 foot breaker bar to it 15 minutes later,yes,I DID write "15 minutes later",it started turning before I even got to the grunt.

http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

I started trying this oil on a super stuck 55 DeSoto hemi this afternoon. Someone had packed this engine so full of the red Georgia powdered clay that I literally couldn't screw the spark plugs in it. This one had to come apart,so I pulled the engine and pulled the heads a couple of years ago,poured the cylinders full of WD,and absolutely nothing happened. After a couple of years the WD-40 just disappeared,but if it penetrated past the rings I can see or feel no evidence of it. It may have poured out one of the time I was moving the block around.

Anyhow,the block is sitting upright now with no heads on it,so I decided to test the Kroil as it sat. I sprayed it in at the top and sides of each piston,and sprayed enough to have a little puddle of Kroil at the bottom of each piston. Went away for a hour,and when I came back almost all the Kroil had leaked down on one cylinder,and some had leaked down on another. Red Georgia Clay was still winning on 6 of them. So I sprayed the two that had leaked down again,and let them sit for a almost 3 hours. The two that had leaked down had completely leaked down this time,and I THINK two more had leaked down some.

So I filled them again and shut the shop up and came in the house. Going to check them again in the morning to see if I am making any progress. I am temped to just roll the block up on one side so one bank of pistons is horizontal,and then spray enough Kroil in each one to completely cover the piston tops,and then wait a couple of hours to see what happens.

I am pretty sure that by tomorrow afternoon I will have one bank of pistons covered with Kroil,the head back on that bank,and 150 psi of air connected to a cylinder. I just don't see any way that even that Ga Clay,which has the consistency of concrete,can stand up to that oil with 150 psi of air behind it.

This is a low-mileage 291 "S" option DeSoto hemi that doesn't even have a ridge in the cylinder walls,so I want to save it. Plans are to put it and a push-button 727 in my 33 Plymouth coupe one day.

Edited February 13, 2017 by knuckleharley

[dale]

On 2/12/2017 at 6:06 PM, knuckleharley said:

I just bought a 55 Plymouth 4dr for parts last week because it has a 230 in it with the actual automatic transmission. It had been sitting for over 8 years since last started,so it was stuck pretty tight. A socket with a 2 foot handle attached to it and pushed on to "one grunt" didn't impress it at all.

BTW,if anyone has a single barrel 230 carb with the dashpot for a automatic trans they want to sell,I sure could use one.

Someone told me about Kroil penetrating oil recently,so I bought some to use on the Plymouth. I put 1 ounce in each cylinder,and when I put the 2 foot breaker bar to it 15 minutes later,yes,I DID write "15 minutes later",it started turning before I even got to the grunt.

http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

I started trying this oil on a super stuck 55 DeSoto hemi this afternoon. Someone had packed this engine so full of the red Georgia powdered clay that I literally couldn't screw the spark plugs in it. This one had to come apart,so I pulled the engine and pulled the heads a couple of years ago,poured the cylinders full of WD,and absolutely nothing happened. After a couple of years the WD-40 just disappeared,but if it penetrated past the rings I can see or feel no evidence of it. It may have poured out one of the time I was moving the block around.

Anyhow,the block is sitting upright now with no heads on it,so I decided to test the Kroil as it sat. I sprayed it in at the top and sides of each piston,and sprayed enough to have a little puddle of Kroil at the bottom of each piston. Went away for a hour,and when I came back almost all the Kroil had leaked down on one cylinder,and some had leaked down on another. Red Georgia Clay was still winning on 6 of them. So I sprayed the two that had leaked down again,and let them sit for a almost 3 hours. The two that had leaked down had completely leaked down this time,and I THINK two more had leaked down some.

So I filled them again and shut the shop up and came in the house. Going to check them again in the morning to see if I am making any progress. I am temped to just roll the block up on one side so one bank of pistons is horizontal,and then spray enough Kroil in each one to completely cover the piston tops,and then wait a couple of hours to see what happens.

I am pretty sure that by tomorrow afternoon I will have one bank of pistons covered with Kroil,the head back on that bank,and 150 psi of air connected to a cylinder. I just don't see any way that even that Ga Clay,which has the consistency of concrete,can stand up to that oil with 150 psi of air behind it.

This is a low-mileage 291 "S" option DeSoto hemi that doesn't even have a ridge in the cylinder walls,so I want to save it. Plans are to put it and a push-button 727 in my 33 Plymouth coupe one day.

 

[dale]

Kroil is the best... We used it getting the big nuts etc.  off on the turbine power generators.  I see NAPA carries it.

[knuckleharley]

53 minutes ago, dale said:

Kroil is the best... We used it getting the big nuts etc.  off on the turbine power generators.  I see NAPA carries it.

I didn't know that. I bought mine directly from the manufacturer.

 

BTW,as of dusk last night,I now have 4 cylinders of the DeSoto hemi accepting oil past the rings. This is in a unheated building with no insulation and night time temps down in the 30's or 40's.

Engine sitting upright and all the oil that has gone past the rings has done so due to it's ability to penetrate aided only by gravity. At no time has air or any other compression method been used.

I didn't add any oil to any cylinders last night,but I expect to see more cylinders with no standing oil in them when I go out to check.

I am going to be shocked if I can't turn that engine over with a ratchet and socket by the end of the week.

Once I get it free,my plans are to coat the cylinder walls with either vasoline or gear lube,and turn it over enough to saturate the rings for safe storage,put the heads and intake back on it so it's all in one piece and one place again,and cover it up so it will be free and ready when I get around to rebuilding it.

[classiccarjack]

On 2/11/2017 at 4:40 AM, oldmopar said:

With the in tank bronze filters sometime the bottom of it is clogged with crud and if you have around a1/4 tank or less the filter will prevent the flow. The air may be blowing out of the top of the filter.

Just to show you all kinds of things can block a gas flow. I found this mouse blocking thein tank fuel filter in a 52 plymouth

 

 

Wow and ewwwww! 

[classiccarjack]

On 2/12/2017 at 5:59 AM, knuckleharley said:

Having had experience with Harley gas tanks with custom paint that were "sealed" and then months later having my gas line constantly clogged by sealer eaten by ethanol,I could live with a little rust inside. Especially in a car you drive regularly. The gas sloshing around and being refilled will probably keep the rust at bay. If you park it for a while you are going to have to drain the tank and pour enough oil in the tank to coat the bottom,though.

Ethanol creates rust. This is why my automatic reaction now is to just buy a new gas tank and be done with it. Poly tanks are probably the best for driver cars. Inexpensive compared to the others,and there are no conditions where rust will be created in them. Then steel tanks that are galvanized inside,followed by stainless steel tanks. Stainless tanks are unquestionably the strongest,but they are also the most expensive and most noticeable as not being stock. Poly tanks are black,so people just don't even notice them for the most part.

And really,in the long run it is cheaper to just buy a new gas tank,install it once,and be done with it than it is to pay a tow bill and then take it out,dump the gas in it,flush it out,blow out the gas lines,and replace the filters. Even if you figure your own time as only being worth minimum wage. If you have to pay a shop to do it,you are nuts if you don't put a new gas tank in it before your first drive.

What motorcycles do you ride?  I would assume Harley Davidson by your handle...