new guy

[neil and ethan]

hi, just came across site,  inspired by the coldwarmotors you tube videos. i decided to,  at my grandsons urging ,  to  get at my 1948 dodge car 4door  i have had for about 18-25 years, up and running

. thinking i will need some help from you guys i signed on.  bought it off a neighbour, it was his dads last plated in 1971.he had it inside, i sadly could not. it also has rust. esp. the sills

and some on the rear fenders, it ran and drove 18 years ago, with no brakes .i tried to start it every year. but got behind and it seized ,12 years ago.

grandson and i , tried last summer  .could not get it to budge,  this time filled the cylinders with ATF, sat for a few weeks, took the head off, hammer and 2x4 for 1/2 hour and it moved.

i was amazed as stuck as it was, that there would be rusty rings in the bore, where they sat , but there is not(pistons are all 30 over). smooth as can be.took starter out, cleaned it up.back in ,spins over like a dam on 12 volt. had one exhaust valve stick open, taped it down 15 times , to get loose tried to get all valves to  spin.lots of cleaning , tapped the threads,on head and bolts.

back together put 4 good used tires on,( got the starter on 12 volt, direct  ),( ignition  on 6 volt)( did not have a decent 6 volt batt. on the farm) no spark, points looked good,  2-3 hours screwed around , changed condenser, maybe that was it, got spark, pour  gas in carb, she fires.  hooked up gallon gas tank , gravity to carb,runs up to 4-5 minutes at a time ,but that is only with accelerator pump

constantly pumping, it tries to move in gear, but maybe fluid drive is low.  ( and amazingly it charges) so that is where we are at.  not bad for one   weekend.

the plan now, have a carb kit on order, fuel pump must be screwed , even running , no fuel from pump.  will check fluid drive. get it moving on its own . then worry about brakes .

then whether to start  converting  to 12 volt ,or stay with 6

  my grandson can have the car, i think he is beginning to see how much work is really involved, and learning tons of stuff. that is the important part.. how long he stays interested, i do not know, but we are spending time together.  ( just have to lock up the spray paint cupboard)

     things i will need to know ,   how to get rear drums off   ,inside  door handles,window cranks and   panels.( all glass is good and they work , but stiff) window crank knobs have disintegrated.    just for starters.  

           thanks    i will get pics and serial #s later

   

 

 

 

 

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[classiccarjack]

Welcome to the forum!  

Rear brake drums require a special tool.  Without the tool you will most likely destroy the threads on the end of your axles.  

Which part of the US do you reside in?

[Conn47D24]

Welcome, yes rear drum are youreally first challenge.  Rent the puller and take your time.

[casper50]

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

 

good for brake no how and how to remove drums.

 

a good video

 

You must have a very good puller and a very large hammer. Unless you get reall lucky.

[classiccarjack]

19 minutes ago, casper50 said:

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

 

good for brake no how and how to remove drums.

 

a good video

 

You must have a very good puller and a very large hammer. Unless you get reall lucky.

That's the tool!  I am glad to own one.  Tough to find....

[Dartgame]

The  window crank and door handles are held on with w/ a pin. You push the spring loaded eschution at the base of the handle inwards and the pin becomes visible. Push the pin out and the handle comes loose.

sounds like you are on your way to getting it running.

The master cylinder is under the floor, you can remove a floor panel in the drivers foot well to gain access to it. Likely you will need to remove the brake and clutch pedal pads to get the floor panel out.

lots of info on the site here to assist you as you progress. Use the search function to locate various topics and how to's. 

[neil and ethan]

thanks guys  ,  i took the cotter pin and nut off, and saw the key, tapped a bit  and realized i had better quit.

  live in  cold saskatchewan canada,   was melting , last weekend , when we worked on it, -20 today, but i have an old giant forklift that it is sitting on,

i can run it into the shop, for a day or two, and then boot it out, to get other stuff in.  kinda handy.

 the brake looks like fun, i have a fair selection of pullers , but none like that, get some studs , make a ring, something like that, and soak it for a week.

 i will have more questions , i am sure     thanks 

Edited February 3, 2017 by neil and ethan
adding more

[neil and ethan]

anything i need to know about front seat removal.i am sure they will be rusted solid , assume they are bolts , down thru floor. probably hopeless.

 i hope the bolts are not part of the seat.     i  will  see       but will  probably  end up grinding  off from bottom      .  if i can      size   bolt    wrench?

 got the btm cushion out in back,  i am guessing only a  couple bolts hold the top cushion in .

any  info  appreciated 

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, neil and ethan said:

thanks guys  ,  i took the cotter pin and nut off, and saw the key, tapped a bit  and realized i had better quit.

  live in  cold saskatchewan canada,   was melting , last weekend , when we worked on it, -20 today, but i have an old giant forklift that it is sitting on,

i can run it into the shop, for a day or two, and then boot it out, to get other stuff in.  kinda handy.

 the brake looks like fun, i have a fair selection of pullers , but none like that, get some studs , make a ring, something like that, and soak it for a week.

 i will have more questions , i am sure     thanks 

Don't even think about trying to make one. You can buy one cheaper than you can make one,and you know the one you buy will remove your brake drums without damaging them.

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B012P0QV5K/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486135638&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Mopar+rear+brake+drum+puller

Buy the one above or one similar to it,and spend your time on other things. BTW,that same puller also works on pre-49 Fords,Jeeps,IHC's,and probably all sorts of mobile farm or industrial equipment. Sometimes you can rent one from places like Advance Auto,but if you own it you don't have to waste your time taking it back,or going to rent it again if you ever need it again. Spend the 40 bucks once and be done with it. With this tool,a BFH,and plenty of patience,you can pull the drums off without damaging anything.

In case you haven't guessed,your rear drums are a press fit on a tapered axle end and have a keyway cut with a locator key to keep them from spinning independent of the axle ends. Good system and works well right up to the point someone does a brake job and wipes all the grease off the axle ends and hub races before re-installing the drums. We all know what happens to two pieces of steel with no grease that are a press fit and used where they will get hot and then cool. WD-40 and similar lubes ain't enough. You need to grease the axle ends and hub races before re-installing the hubs. You will be glad you did the next time you have to do a brake job.

One thing you can try that might make it easier is to use the BFH to beat on the outside of the drums before you start to pull them to see if you can "vibrate loose" the brake shoes from the drums. Almost never works,but is worth the try. If it doesn't work,cut the heads off the brake shoe locator pins in the rear of the backing plates so the shoes will move with the drums. I have been able to get the drums to turn in the past a couple of times by cutting the heads off those pins and then pulling the car a few feet forwards and backwards with it in neutral. Getting the brake shoes loose is a huge advantage. Especially if the drums are worn and sitting in a groove they have worn. Once you get the drums turning you can back off on the adjusters and make pulling the drum much easier.

And,as always,if you don't  have a Motors Manual that covers your year car,buy one NOW. You can buy one used on ebay for lunch money,and the tips it will give you with photos illustrating what they are talking about are invaluable. Everything you will need to know about tuning up,adjusting,and repairing your car is in that book. Best money you will ever spend.

Edited February 3, 2017 by knuckleharley

[knuckleharley]

13 minutes ago, neil and ethan said:

anything i need to know about front seat removal.i am sure they will be rusted solid , assume they are bolts , down thru floor. probably hopeless.

 i hope the bolts are not part of the seat.     i  will  see       but will  probably  end up grinding  off from bottom      .  if i can      size   bolt    wrench?

 got the btm cushion out in back,  i am guessing only a  couple bolts hold the top cushion in .

any  info  appreciated 

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486137128&sr=8-2&keywords=rounded+nut+removal+tool

Sockets like these will be your new best friend when you start taking old mechanical stuff apart with rusted or rounded bolt or nut heads. I now own them from about 1/4 inch up to 3/4 inch.

Craftsman makes a good set,but it's more expensive than the Hanson set. Nothern Hydraulics also has big and small sets for sale at good prices made by KD and other manufacturers. These sockets will save you a lot of frustration,and maybe even some skin and blood. You can even buy wrenches now for rounded off nuts. I recently bought  a set of Craftsmen from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch at Ace Hardware for around 30 bucks,and they work like a charm for instances where the bolt head protrudes too far for your socket to fit.

[1950 Special Deluxe]

Not sure where in Saskatchewan you are, but if close to Saskatoon I have the rear drum puller that you can borrow.

I have a 1950 Dodge D36, I have the manuals and parts list book as well.

They are available to borrow as well.

There are a few of us in Saskatchewan on this site, various parts of the province.

Neil

 

 

 

[classiccarjack]

One last thing, put a penny between the axle and the pressure screw/shaft of the puller.  A squashed penny is better than repairing axle threads.  I learned this from my grandpa when I was a teenager back in the 1980's.  A tip that I once failed to follow on my 1956 Desoto and learned to truly appreciate the wisdom of my elders....  It took me some time to repair a mushroomed end and rethread it(It was late at night and I didn't see the damage that I caused until it was too late)!  eek!

[neil and ethan]

1950 special deluxe  thanks , i appreciate the offer, i will see what is around here, i am 2 hours west of saskatoon,   unity . and if it came to that, i would give you a big deposit

before i borrowed your tool.    not there yet ,but thanks.     been doing wife stuff, renovations,  might get it back in shop today. start soaking everything down, do fuel pump etc.

carb kit showed up today, enough to keep busy for a while.      it was fitting , after my first post here,went to town A&W for coffee , there running in the parking lot was a really nice

( at least in the dark )58-59-60 ? chrysler   saratoga 4dr.  a guy bought it in edmonton, was on his way to Bigger ( driving it.). was not charging , so they had to stop every 30 miles and boost.,   must have been a long day    tough decision  do i want heat or lights or both.

  it was a beauty.

 

Edited February 4, 2017 by neil and ethan

[neil and ethan]

hopefully have some pics here

[neil and ethan]

 update , got the seats out,  door entry  rubber,   only twisted one seat  bolt off,   floor pan out , put the carb kit in. now it will idle,  runs smooth  , fuel pump was screwed, put a spare one on,  still running it out of a gas can .   checked fluid drive level, was full ,  transmission was low.      put 85-90 in is that right

 gas line was fine up to the tank ,    but  blocked in the  tank       took a lot of air pressure to get  it unclogged       took  fuel sender out  , i will test it today.

think it is junk.

   now to  hook up gas tank   .    i  was wondering if i should stir up gas tank with air  then suck out all the crappy gas,    tank  has a tiny leak,so i am assuming it was dry,

before i dumped in 6 gallons.    put the hood back on last night.    get new plugs today. and new 6 volt batt.    should be drivable, except for brakes.  

E brake works, 

    we have the front fender chrome, but could be short the  rear door piece, and  the one above the rear  wheel  on the other side., might still be in the grass where the car was parked.                one front bumperette is totally squashed, so i will be looking for one of them for sure .

 

 we will put front bucket seats in for now,  and store the factory ones ( to be redone ) till he or we figure out what is actually going to be done with the car.

 custom / original  color  etc.

 on to the brakes,  from everything i have read here ,  pretty well a complete renew,   been pricing at napa and around,  online seems cheaper.

       any tips on best place to buy , or online's  that  deal in canada ?

           thanks for the site and the help

   

  

[knuckleharley]

8 hours ago, neil and ethan said:

hopefully have some pics here

Love your mobile car lift,

[knuckleharley]

8 hours ago, neil and ethan said:

 

 on to the brakes,  from everything i have read here ,  pretty well a complete renew,   been pricing at napa and around,  online seems cheaper.

       any tips on best place to buy , or online's  that  deal in canada ?

           thanks for the site and the help

   

  

IIRC,I bought new wheelcylinders for my 51 Ford for about $5 each off of Amazon. Brand new Lockheed. Master cylinder came from a specialty vendor,and was expensive,I think if I were to do it again,I'd go ahead and spring for a brand new dual outlet mastercylinder  with the installation kit and be done with it.

I also bought my copper/nickel brake line from Amazon.

I bought my brake hoses from Ebay.

I'd check amazon for brake shoes also,but you may have to go to Roberts,Rock Auto,NAPA,or somewhere similar for that.

As always,your best recourse for things like this is a factory parts manual,or the digital equivalent. If you have the factory parts numbers,you can find what you want cross-referenced. Many old parts also fit newer cars,trucks,or machinery. The parts manual will also  help you track down your missing door chrome piece.

[oldmopar]

On the gas tank when i have a lot of old crappy gas I usually pull the sending unit and drop a hose attached to a modern electric fuel pump (keep pump a distance from the tank in case it sparks) and pump the crud into a empty can up though the sending unit opening.

If you drop the tank watch the fuel line that have a furel , like a pipe on a sink that seals line to tank and is a odd size. These cars have a bronze intank non removable filter but it should clear when you hit it with the air.

Once you get the puller for the brakes i have found by using a socket that fits my brake puller and a air gun sometimes the nut will come off with out pounding on the bar the comes with the tank.

Its been a while since I worked on any old mopars but this should be helpful if not someone will correct me i hope.

 

[neil and ethan]

knuckle   the only sad part about my mobile lift is it needs brakes too.  use a 4x6  now

  oldmopar , yes i think i will suck out all the old stuff, but i like to do that kind of stuff outside.

 prevent burning down the shop.  -30 this am, so a little cool for outside, supposed to warm up on weekend.

[49D-24BusCpe]

Hi Neal & Ethan,

    Your car is a U.S. built D-24 Dodge Custom Four-Door Sedan. It was built with the 23" head 230 cu. in. engine.

    It sound like you're on the road to success!

Walt

[RobertKB]

There were a few D 24's built in Canada as well as the more numerous D 25's. If built in Canada the build tag under the hood should tell you and it should have the longer 25" engine. 

[Andydodge]

Welcome to the best mopar forum on the internet, these guys know their stuff........have attached a pic of a puller I bought 45yrs ago when I first bought my Oz 1940 Dodge.........it hasn't met a tapered axle brake drum that it didn't like....lol........basically get the biggest puller you can find and have at it....the idea of putting on a coin to protect the axle threads is a good idea, a good amount of WD40 or similar and a large hammer once the puller is tightly on & against the drum & axle are all good ideas..........lol............ain't old cars fun.......welcome again and best wishes with the project.....Andy Douglas  

[neil and ethan]

it is canadian built D24C body#4603,paint 4002,trim 8AG,  my pics are too big, so i only get 1 per post,

got into a door today,to get windows/ latches, lubed,dirt out,need crank knobs, and see what it will take  to refinish wood grain trim, and door panels. will experiment to see if we can get close to the wood grain, or just a solid color.   build a batt. box next , or in trunk.  have a volunteer  to do some welding below the doors and a little on fenders.

I have a question on the body chrome, attachment. can you get new clips, or is there a better way, do you fill the holes and use a different system?

[knuckleharley]

16 minutes ago, neil and ethan said:

it is canadian built D24C body#4603,paint 4002,trim 8AG,  my pics are too big, so i only get 1 per post,

got into a door today,to get windows/ latches, lubed,dirt out,need crank knobs, and see what it will take  to refinish wood grain trim, and door panels. will experiment to see if we can get close to the wood grain, or just a solid color.   build a batt. box next , or in trunk.  have a volunteer  to do some welding below the doors and a little on fenders.

I have a question on the body chrome, attachment. can you get new clips, or is there a better way, do you fill the holes and use a different system?

check this guy out for trim clips  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/

[neil and ethan]

that is a great site, maybe my searches , will go better that i am learning the correct terms for things.