C.C. Rider Posted December 21, 2016 Report Posted December 21, 2016 Peace Family, Over the xmas break ill be putting a lot of time into my B1D126. I want to remove the rear drum brakes and i noticed that there is a locking/ torque nuts. I have my 2-9/16 socket but my question is when putting everything back together what are the torque specs and reinstall sequences? Thanks... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 21, 2016 Report Posted December 21, 2016 I do not have a truck specific book but the car of the same era has a torque spec of min 142 ft lb. The minimum is usually in reference to the minimum torque at first hole/opportunity to insert the cotter pin Quote
Merle Coggins Posted December 21, 2016 Report Posted December 21, 2016 He has a 1Ton truck with floating axles, Tim. It doesn't have the tapered axle like the smaller trucks and cars. That torque spec will not apply. I don't have my shop manual handy to look up the procedure for those hubs, but I'm sure someone here will know it. Merle Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 21, 2016 Report Posted December 21, 2016 thanks for the clarification Merle...I now know the axle of which you speak... Quote
JBNeal Posted December 21, 2016 Report Posted December 21, 2016 There are no listed torque specifications in the shop manual for rear wheel bearing adjustments...the shop manual is more specific, but the long and short of it is very similar to installation of all wheel bearings: not too tight, not too loose...additionally, adjust so that the lock washer dowel pin aligns with one of the washer holes 1 Quote
JPP Posted December 22, 2016 Report Posted December 22, 2016 Back when I worked at a Buick dealership in my high school days 1970's, I would ask mechanics about torque specs and they would tell me "tight-tight". Sorry not a technical term but that was what they used. 1 Quote
MBF Posted December 22, 2016 Report Posted December 22, 2016 I've always done mine by feel like Merle says. I'd also pack the wheel bearings while you've got it apart. These normally get lube from the differential oil, but I've seen a guy with a motorhome burn these up i less than a mile after assembling them dry. If you're trying to reuse the inner seals, be careful when removing the drum assembly from the axle. The lips on the seal don't like those axle stub threads. If you need p/n's for the 1 ton inner seals let me know, I think I have them written down. Good idea to check the surface that rides on the outer seal is clean and nick / pit free. I've made my own outer gaskets. 3 Quote
JBNeal Posted December 22, 2016 Report Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) additional information - Rear Axle Seals Edited July 13, 2020 by JBNeal revised link Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 23, 2016 Report Posted December 23, 2016 as others have said, no real spec on it. When building FEF up it was a "feel" thing. While rotating the assembly we wanted it to feel snug but not tight. I rule of thumb I'd go for is tighten till it feels tight then back off 1/4 turn and call it good. Quote
P15-D24 Posted December 23, 2016 Report Posted December 23, 2016 Actually you can use a dial gauge to measure the free play. I've seen specs for bearing loading somewhere. I'll see if I can find it later today. Quote
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