Swap 1950 Chrysler 6 to a 340

[DrDoctor]

PS – I’ve just got to say this: I love the green car pictured above (not sure just exactly what it is, nor what year it is), but it’s simply a stunning car. While green isn’t my favorite color, it does look good on that particular car, and the wire wheels look perfect on it!!!  But . . . . . I’m just not sure I could do whitewall tires. They look good on that car, but they’re A LOT of upkeep (I remember when I last had whitewalls – it was back in the 60’s . . .  See, I’m older than dirt.) So, I’d have to give whitewalls some significant tho’t.

   Thx.

[BigDaddyO]

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

look to the hugger style manifolds off a later model truck...you may find them interesting...

[Dodgeb4ya]

4 hours ago, The Dr's In said:

PS – I’ve just got to say this: I love the green car pictured above (not sure just exactly what it is, nor what year it is), but it’s simply a stunning car. While green isn’t my favorite color, it does look good on that particular car, and the wire wheels look perfect on it!!!  But . . . . . I’m just not sure I could do whitewall tires. They look good on that car, but they’re A LOT of upkeep (I remember when I last had whitewalls – it was back in the 60’s . . .  See, I’m older than dirt.) So, I’d have to give whitewalls some significant tho’t.

   Thx.

That's a 1950 NewYorker 8 cylinder hardtop I've had for over 40 years...all stock except for the wire wheels which really came out on MoPars in 1953.

The tires are 8.20 X 15 Denman's... a very high end and expensive tire ... they are not made anymore.

The white wall rubber is extremely dense and closed cell so to speak... just about as smooth as the plastic on a white plastic bottle.

Basically no vigorous cleaning has ever been required. They do require a quick wipe once or twice a year with "bleche white" whitewall cleaner.

They have never yellowed/cracked or turned brown like 90% of the new vintage white wall tires sold today after 2-3 years..

Thanks for the compliment!

[CaptChris]

I was thinking the tight truck header might be an option and then I could fab a pipe to turn back up quick and exit thru the inner fender and out and down behind the wheel. I did find some small block fenderwell headers, made by Sanderson, but they cost as much as my engine did. 

http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson-twister-outside-chassis-header-for-chrysler-small-block.html

Waiting on dimensions from the company. My only worry with these are if they come out far enough......and the price. 

Removed inner lower fender on pass. side. Very easy as it was bolted on. Plenty of room on that side. 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2016 by CaptChris

[CaptChris]

Pass side upper will need a trim and I will go back and fill in around exhaust with pieces from the lower. 

http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/villagehooligan/media/image1.jpg.html

Driver's side is a one piece inner, going to trim and leave a shelf up front for the battery tray. 

http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/villagehooligan/media/image1-1.jpg.html

http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/villagehooligan/media/image2-1_1.jpg.html

 

Another thought on headers, to hack up a cheap set from another application and weld on the small block mopar flange. I wonder what head is closest to a mopar???

Edited December 1, 2016 by CaptChris

[DJ194950]

On 12/1/2016 at 2:54 PM, CaptChris said:

I was thinking the tight truck header might be an option and then I could fab a pipe to turn back up quick and exit thru the inner fender and out and down behind the wheel. I did find some small block fenderwell headers, made by Sanderson, but they cost as much as my engine did. 

http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson-twister-outside-chassis-header-for-chrysler-small-block.html

Waiting on dimensions from the company. My only worry with these are if they come out far enough......and the price. 

Removed inner lower fender on pass. side. Very easy as it was bolted on. Plenty of room on that side. 

 

 

Fender well headers- What my work??http://www.manciniracing.com/hookerheaders1.html

Something to at least look at.

DJ

DJ

 

 

[wayfarer]

How about Dakota headers?

[CaptChris]

7 hours ago, wayfarer said:

How about Dakota headers?

Yup, not bad, at least they would bolt up ha! I am pretty stuck on making a real fenderwell. Been looking at Patriots and Doug's fenderwell, which aren't made for mopar small blocks. In the process of comparing manifold gaskets to see what's closest to my 340, cause I'll probably buy whatever is closest and hack the flange off. I don't have the patience to make them from scratch. I'm sure I will probably kick myself for not just using what naturally fits. 

[DJ194950]

Probably the easiest and cheapest in the long run if ya got to have those fender well headers.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/318-360-Mopar-Header-Kit-1-3-4-Tube-3-Inch-Collector,36216.html

Have read several articles where pvc pipes used to do mock-ups for the headers and then cut and copy your pvc pipe model to build the steel headers. Cheap and mistakes are easy and cheap to replace. Also do not use glue on the pipes/fittings.

Good luck,

DJ

[CaptChris]

On 12/6/2016 at 5:25 PM, DJ194950 said:

Probably the easiest and cheapest in the long run if ya got to have those fender well headers.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/318-360-Mopar-Header-Kit-1-3-4-Tube-3-Inch-Collector,36216.html

Have read several articles where pvc pipes used to do mock-ups for the headers and then cut and copy your pvc pipe model to build the steel headers. Cheap and mistakes are easy and cheap to replace. Also do not use glue on the pipes/fittings.

Good luck,

DJ

yup my buddy showed me an even cheaper do it yourself kit. I don't have the patience to do exhaust, it would end up looking like hell. I got a real cheap set of fenderwells that I am gonna cut up.

[CaptChris]

Jacking up the rear height in conjunction with the front.

Made some adjustable rear shackles. Looks nice and high in photo, but the car dropped pretty low after removing blocks even with the new shackles. Springs are only a few years old too. 

Debating either having them re arched, installing add a leaf or just getting new ones that have more bend to them. I've never used an add a leaf, seems cheapest way.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

get rid of those shackles while you still have a spring to work with....look to Helwig for some levelers as this seems to be the approach mentioned....a trip to the junk yard may net a set for a few bucks...those long bars have no stabilizing qualities anywhere

[Dodgeb4ya]

I bought some of those shackles (chromed too!) from JC Whitney when I was 16. 

Put them on ...thought the car would be jacked up nice and high on hole # 14... just bent the springs backward.

The car really had an awesome sway to it going around corners too.

Scared  the hell out of all my friends going around corners!

 

[DrDoctor]

   Dodgeb4ya’s put forth an excellent point – ultra-long leaf spring shackles are dangerous in that by being too long, they allow sway when the vehicle’s turning. The higher the speed during the turn, the greater they sway, until they actually fail and collapse, leaving the rear end displaced from its normal position, and the vehicle immobilized. Further, they also compromise the effectiveness, and the function, of the leaf spring by not being able to swing in an arc when the spring flexes. This’ll result in the natural arch of the leaf spring being lost, and it’ll flatten, and actually eventually reverse its arch, leaving it unable to flex, leaving the spring worthless in that condition. So, removal/disposal of those ultra-long shackles is the first order of business. Then, replace/re-arch/add spring leaves are your options. Re-arching them will return the car to very near its original ride characteristic. A new spring will be abit stiffer than a re-arched one, but will last much longer, since it’s new. Eaton Spring Company is an excellent source if you do decide on the replacement avenue.  Adding leaves will stiffen the ride, so unless you intend on using the car for some serious racing, especially drag racing, it’s advisable to not go overboard with the additional leaves – 1 or 2 should suffice. Any more than that, and the car will ride like an old lumber wagon. Thx.

[DrDoctor]

PS – Back in the mid-sixties, when I was in high school, and those ultra-long leaf spring shackles were in vogue as the way to raise the back of one’s car to get that desired “rake”, I actually saw a car’s rear end dislocate sideways in the school parking lot with humourous results (remember – we were just kids). Thankfully, in retrospect, no one was injured, and other than the car in question, no other damages were sustained. Point made . . .   Thx.

[50 coupe]

On 12/11/2016 at 10:42 AM, The Dr's In said:

PS – Back in the mid-sixties, when I was in high school, and those ultra-long leaf spring shackles were in vogue as the way to raise the back of one’s car to get that desired “rake”, I actually saw a car’s rear end dislocate sideways in the school parking lot with humourous results (remember – we were just kids). Thankfully, in retrospect, no one was injured, and other than the car in question, no other damages were sustained. Point made . . .   Thx.

OH yeah. Shackles, ladder bars and straight thrush 'mufflers' were the set up!!

[CaptChris]

Little update of where I am with the car. Exhaust is nearly done. I will set how far it comes out after I weld engine into place.

 

Stock starter doesn't fit, "mini" mopar is the one pictured and doesn't fit much better.

 

I found a great one to try, as long as I can use it with a 143 tooth flywheel,

 

Chrysler starter part #  56029274AA (it's out of late model hemi truck with manual trans.)

 

[CaptChris]

Here's a photo of the RAM 2500 starter that was pulled off an A body website, 

 

 

 

[CaptChris]

Starter 56029274AA fits nice.

[fstfish66]

nice looking starter,,, wish  i seen your project sooner,,, as for  shorter water pump,you can get a rebuilt 1969 an  earlier, it will be shorter, and cast iron not  cast aluminum, like the one you have now, you will also have to find  the  correct  pullys for  the water  pump and  balancer, if you need more radiator  clearance,,,looking good so far,,becareful with  those long shackels,,,

[CaptChris]

Finished up my engine swap a few weeks ago. What a difference! This thing is FUN. 

 

 

 

[40desoto]

Hey Chris, I still have the flathead I purchased from you untouched.  Lol. I will either take it apart when I get some spare time and money or put it up for sale soon.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Lookin good.

[Frank Elder]

Is your upper control arm cracked?