georgeeb Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 I just bought a 1946 dodge wf-32 stake truck. The issue I am having is that once I drive it for a bit, it will not start. Let it cool for a couple of hours, it starts just fine. A secondary question is what can I expect the top speed to be? Its only a 4 speed. At this point, I don't want to go over 45.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Welcome to the forum. So by "won't start" do you mean won't crank over, or will crank just fine, but won't fire? If it's #1, then he timing is very likely too far advanced and once hot it's building pressure and won't turn over fast enough.....if it's #2 then most likely a coil issue, but it could just be that your boiling or evaporating the gas all out of the bowl, and you actually need to choke it to start it.....but more info would help on a desktop diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 The hard starting issue could be that it gets flooded from fuel peculation. Try holding 1/4 to 1/2 throttle while cranking and see if it'll start. As for your top speed, we need more information. From that one picture it's hard to determine, but looks like it may be a 1-1/2 ton truck. You probably won't win any races, but it'll probably go faster than you think. Merle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Look at the base of the carb. Is it wet? If so you are likely percolating fuel out of the float bowl. Do you have the heat shield in place above the fuel pump? Is your manifold heat riser functional? Can you see a squirt of fuel in the carb when you work the linkage from closed to wide open throttle? If Merle's suggestion doesn't work push the gas pedal to the floor and hold wide open while you crank the starter. Do you get black smoke or really strong gas smell if or when it starts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeeb Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 It turns over, just won't start. I talked to my mechanic friend today and we will be replacing the coil, and wrapping the gas line with heat resistant stuff (just in case vapor lock is real). The truck is 1 1/2 ton, 4 speed. No upper or lower. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Before you do anything, I would try getting it hot and starting with the pedal floored, and if no go, try a bit of choke and a little pedal....then once you figure out if it's fuel or spark start working on the problem...although changing the coil and wrapping line won't hurt, or cost much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 ***TROUBLE SHOTTING(CARTER carburetor) The proper operation of a gasoline engine requires that the engine,the fuel system and the ignition system must operate properly. ................................................................... The only way of being sure that a given trouble,,such as .........,or HARD STARTING is being caused to the carburetor is to FIRST check the engine,ignition system and the fuel system including the carburetor. COMPLAINTS,CAUSES AND REMEDIES ...................................................................... b.Hard starting ............................ (2)Hard starting when hot (a)Overchocking (b)Antipercolator not opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Has the engine always been running and you turned it off and then it wouldn't restart or has it been dying on it's own and you're trying to restart it? if you've been turning it off, how long does it sit before you try to restart it? Immediately or after several minutes, 5? 10 15?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 I had the same problem with my 36 Plymouth. I converted it to 12v several years ago along w one of my PH trucks. Check your grounds, and the condition of your battery cables, and their gauge. A hot engine takes more battery oomph to start. If the cables are corroded internally, or too light a gauge (6 volt systems have twice the amp draw of a 12 volt system), the starting problem may be affected by too low a voltage to the coil. That along with percolating gas/heat sink will make it hard to start when hot. I'd also make sure that the fuel pump heat shield is in place-that is needed with the formulation of today's gasoline. Nice truck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeeb Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 When it would not restart, I would have my wife pick me up then it was usually a couple of hours before I returned to the truck. It always started fine then. My mechanic buddy is going to put electronic fuel injection on it and then we will see what that does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeeb Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 I should say I made sure all battery cables were the appropriate ones for 6v. I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected all ends / connections. The home made fuel pump shield did not seem to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 That's a great idea When it would not restart, I would have my wife pick me up then it was usually a couple of hours before I returned to the truck. It always started fine then. My mechanic buddy is going to put electronic fuel injection on it and then we will see what that does. .EFI is the 100% right answer. See what that fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Not sure what kind of efi is going to go on to an application like this...the wiring alone would be a nightmare, and nothing to say you would fix anything that's actually wrong. You will have to get a new electric fuel pump, so you do eliminate the entire original fuel system...but if someone was going to go to that extent, I would throw the points out and more to electronic spark control from Pertronix and a brand new high output coil as well. Hope you end up with what your after...playing Guinea pig sometimes pays off, and sometimes back fires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 I think I would try a few low tech things before attempting an EFI. What you are dealing with is fuel being percolated out of the carb by heat soak. The fact is that many of us live in hot climates and don't have this problem. Have you verified that the heat riser is working properly? I have a heat shield under the float bowl that I made. It is wired in place on top of the manifold and deflects some of the heat away from the float chamber. Do you have a 1/8" thick insulating gasket at the base of the carb? This is another source of heat transfer that contributes to fuel being percolated out of the carb after shutdown. You may also want to try lowering the float level slightly. Hope this helps, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 So many suggestions, so many questions left unanswered. So instead of trouble shooting engineering that has served without major problems for 60 plus years, let's just throw everything out and try to adapt something that requires changing the electrical system, requires a high pressure fuel pump on a more complicated fuel tank and lines with a return line and various vacuum controlled venting apparatus. That will need to modify the intake manifold and adapt 3 injectors to feed 6 cylinders with a triggering system designed to fire separate nozzles, not to mention fabricating fuel rails and wiring harnesses, need o2sensors, throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensors, knock sensors, and a computer somewhere. Yep that sounds a lot simpler than rebuilding a carb,readjusting the float level and following the owners manual's directions for starting a hot engine. Very interested in watching the process and seeing the finished product 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David A. Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 My truck had a fuel sediment bowl on the front of the carburetor, and I never had a problem starting it hot or cold. One day the bowl started leaking so I removed it and just ran a line straight into the carburetor. From then on it never cut off on me, but I had a terrible time trying to get it to start when it was hot, like after getting gas or stopping at the store. I repaired the old sediment bowl and put it back on and the problem went away. Can't give you a good reason why! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeeb Posted October 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Added EFI and all my engine issue went away. My next big problem was getting the new front tires balanced. I could not find anyone in my local area to do it. A guy named George Osteen at Osteens Body shop put the word out, and an acquaintance scrounged up an old bubble machine. We duct taped the large openings in the tires and bubble balanced. Its not perfect, but at least I can get up to 50 now without bouncing off the ceiling. Just got it painted, and am having a custom wood bed made for it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis46PU Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Please post pictures and details of EFI. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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