C.C. Rider Posted April 16, 2016 Report Posted April 16, 2016 ive replaced the upper and lower toeboards and the transmission cover on the floor board of my b1d126, but im pretty sure im going to have to replace the rest of the floor board inside the cab. has anyone had to replace the floorboard? are there any templates made for this or is this something a fabricator or body works shop is going to have to do? Thanks, Thomas Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 16, 2016 Report Posted April 16, 2016 I've replaced mine. There are no templates so you'll need to make your own. My floor is completely flat, unlike the stock floor which has a number of strengthening ribs pressed into it and it has no seat support either. if you want stock looking, you'll need to add the ribs and reinstall the seat support. I'm set up for buckets instead of the bench seat and have added my own tubular support system under the floor panel. I made a pattern from cardboard, had a sheet of 16 gauge cut and then laid the pattern on it, cut it a bit oversize and then trimmed it to fit, marked the support structure from the bottom, drilled holes for plug welds and laid it in. If I had been going to replace the floor and keep it original looking, I would have used 18 or 20 gauge just for ease of working it and putting in those ribs. Someone with a bead roller could probably do most of those ribs for you or they can be beat in by hand with some patience. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 let the bashing begin....lol Quote
NiftyFifty Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 www.c2cfabrication.com Good to know there is an option...thankfully mine were in great shape except for a few small holes in the corners where water collected...cleaned and welded those up and it was fine. I guess you could try and beat in a bead, but I'm not sure it wouldn't end up warping the panel so badly, that it was 3x the effort. You can buy a bead roller pretty reasonably from Eastwood tools Quote
casper50 Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 No personal experience but I've heard nothing but bad things about C2C products and their lack of correct fit. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 a comment without experience...much of this bashing has been spread about due to the fact that there are folks with little to no skills to begin this task trying to work a panel into their inexperienced approach, lack of proper tools and such trying to move forward. I will be one of the first to say that many panels from many different sources are very close to the original but again the operative word is close...and price does not often make that panel superior over the cost of a less expensive item. I have but on one occasion found panels that were absolute fits,,,these were factory stamped pieces I was lucky to find. BUT even with these, the adjacent panels of the car had to be repaired prior to fitting these, make an error there it is compounded when fitting the replacement part. The aftermarket replacement panels are to some degree going to require some alterations trimming etc. based on each individual use and approach to the said repair. However based on the lack of many folks having forming tools of any kind or design at home..these lower cost panels can be used. I would like to conclude that if you have the skills/tools to work metal then why bother buying these panels to begin with, make them from scratch. Of all the panels I have bought, aside from the factory stamped rockers, they all required a tad of massage. Quote
casper50 Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 I prefaced my comment with "no personal experience". I've made most of my own panels but looked at these before I decided to jump on in and make my own. Most of the comments about this brand ran something like: biggest piece of s**t and a complete waste of money. Paraphrased. Scared me off. Have you had personal experience with a panel from C2C PA? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 yes......and many other makers also....and to that end my comment that none are direct fit stands, all have to be tweaked in one manner or another...however...for the money many are an excellent jumping in point...many and I do mean many, will make the cut for the replacement long before the replacement is on the scene for gauging fit. Like many other facets of the old car experience...lack of experience is most rampant and waaaaay to often, the lack of knowing how a thing works to begins with hinders them from knowing when it is working even if they stumble across the process... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 (edited) please to note here that my reply was not a slam to casper50....it was just he opened the door....my apologies if he or others think I was out to challenge him in any manner...Thanks...Tim many times folks made a cut prior to getting the replacement panel on hand..bigmistake..repair panels are often a representation of common rust for that make and model....your vehicle may be less rusted and often represents more rust than the panel will cover..if in question get the dimensions prior to ordering....have the panel in hand prior to cut.. Edited April 17, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
catfishcuz Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 www.c2cfabrication.com Sorry I was just trying to help I will now go back to my normal non posting sideline. Quote
casper50 Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 always post if you have a contribution catfish. If you have knowledge that someone else is lacking and share it, it makes their day. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 Sorry I was just trying to help I will now go back to my normal non posting sideline. it is not the fact you posted the link in an effort to help, the fact is they have been bashed here at every turn in the past...I often think most of this is without first hand experience and to that end I feel it is wrong..many posts on this forum would qualify as squawks from a polly parrot.. Quote
C.C. Rider Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Posted April 17, 2016 www.c2cfabrication.com now looking at the pic is that one side or both sides? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 17, 2016 Report Posted April 17, 2016 now looking at the pic is that one side or both sides? It looks like the whole floor area ahead of the seat riser, except for the removable pieces. Quote
48Dodger Posted April 19, 2016 Report Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) Sorry I was just trying to help I will now go back to my normal non posting sideline. Don't understand that comment...I didn't get that anyone was taking shots. Personally I'm glad you posted the link....I'm pretty sure I've never seen this product before. And for 150 bucks, it seems reasonably priced. Working on my brother's ride, I feel we might be getting one. 48D Edited April 19, 2016 by 48dodger 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 19, 2016 Report Posted April 19, 2016 It's good to see someone trying to supply sheet metal parts for these trucks. Until someone actually purchases and installs that floor pan it's hard to say if it's a good piece or poor piece. It looks good and if I was doing a stock floor and only needed that section, my metal forming tools and skills limited, I use it. Of all the pieces I've ever purchased, I don't think any of them didn't need a tweek here or there, all needed some trimming, some a lot, some had lines that weren't as sharp as they needed to be, too much or not enough roll in the panel. It didn't matter if they were from a company that specialized in parts for that model or not. Maybe it depends on one's expectations of what a usable panel is. The manufacturer is making a generic piece that needs to be refined for your very own specific unit. I don't expect any of them to simply drop in place. 1 Quote
1952B3b23 Posted April 20, 2016 Report Posted April 20, 2016 So here are my thoughts on replacement panels. I've never purchased any as i really love metal shaping and make my own. There are many suppliers out there that cut corners when making "reproduction" pieces. Either the panel will not have enough crown, missing details (joggles, beads, bends, etc.), or other details. In my mind these are important details and shouldn't be missing. They impact the overall fit and finish of the panel. What the buyer does need to remember is that the supplier more than likely based his replacement piece off of the best original he could find. Which means that from one vehicle to the next there might be slight variations that make it necessary to tailor the patch panel to fit. These vehicles are 60 plus years old so who knows what kind of damages and repairs its gone through in its prior life. Even when new the cars weren't exactly the same from one to another. All of these variables make it really hard to make a patch that fits 100% every time. The only way to get a panel that fits exactly to the vehicle you are working on is to use that car as the basis for the pattern. If one doesn't have the skills to make this happen then its best to bring it to a metal shaper to have the work done. Obviously this can be mighty expensive so its not an option for lots of people including my self. Now this reply isn't meant to bash anyone or stir up any trouble, it's just my 2 cents on replacement panels. To answer the original posters question, if you're feeling adventurous and want to learn a bunch you can try making your own. You can even buy a cheap Woodward fab bead roller and put the beads in the floor pans your self. If i remember correctly the floors in these trucks are just flat with strengthening beads? They're really not that hard to fabricate. If you go the route with the bead rolling all you'll need for material is 18 ga sheet. Good luck, Chris Quote
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