Disc brakes

[stan's52]

I found Rusty Hope web sight. I see he sells kits to convert to front disc brakes. From his sight it looks like there is more to buy after you install his basic mounts. Has any one who installed his kit had much trouble installing the parts. Then finding the remaining parts to complete the job? I would like to install front discs on my 52 Concord. If I live long enough to finish it. I see other people make disc conversions Any one have a preference on manufactures? Stan

[pflaming]

I have Rusty's kit for my B3B truck. Been three years, still work great, but you need to change the MC to a dual chamber unit. See other threads for details.

Edit. Don and Tim are correct ( see following posts). I use my truck a lot or did before the fire so I wanted brakes to be as good as possible. I am very pleased.

Edited January 2, 2016 by pflaming

[Don Coatney]

I have Rusty's kit for my B3B truck. Been three years, still work great, but you need to change the MC to a dual chamber unit. See other threads for details.

That is not true. It is optional to install a dual chamber master cylinder but not required.

 

As far as additional parts required contact Rusty Hope and he will supply a list of what is needed.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the difference between Rusty and others is not only the support you will get from him,,,but cost of shipping saved by buying only the pieces not available over the counter at the local big box.  Cost saving can be distinctly different between where you buy also...and on top of that..should you have an issue with a badly produced caliper, out of round rotor, you have the locals to assist and not a company states away to hinder the exchange process if indeed the exchange for a defective unit was agreed upon between you and the seller.  It is just common sense to keep all you can local and exchange path open.

 

While it is advisable to have a dual chamber master..it is not a requirement to upgrade but do keep in mind that removal of the stock residual is needed and addition of inline residual IF your master is lower than the calipers..

 

many article here for your searching pleasure that will have a few horror stories on service, so read these and make an informed choice...

Edited January 2, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[mopar_earl]

I highly recommend ECI kits and Stan. If you want to keep stock wheels, they won't fit on the ECI kits. Also I highly highly highly recommend a dual master kit for safety sake.

I used the ECI disc and dual master kits on my 52 Coronet. Love them. Car has excellent braking and its safe.

I added a GM combination valve on my car. If you keep your single circuit master, you need to remove the internal residual valve as mentioned. You will need a 2 psi inline residual valve for the front disc and a 10 psi residual valve for the rear drums. This keeps the fluid from gravity flowing back to the master on the disc. On the drums is keeps pressure on the cups to keep them from leaking or allowing air in.

I should add the kits came complete. I didn't have to buy any parts. Also no holes to drill or enlarge or tap. My car had 11" brakes and the ECI kit came with the big rotors and calipers. Disc kit came with sweet billet hubs and use floating rotors. The calipers were new, not reman. The master in the kit was also new, not reman.

If I ever get time to resize all the pics, I plan to write a post on the kits/install.

Earl

Edited January 3, 2016 by mopar_earl

[William Davey]

I also recommend the Rusty Hope system  I purchased the additional parts needed at my local NAPA and had to go back a few times to get the right brake hoses.  When I had a minor fitment issue with a spacer supplied with the kit, Charlie gave me his personal phone number and we talked through the issue.  Note that I was installing this on a '55 C-3-B.  For service after the sale, Rusty Hope can't be beat and the brakes work really well too. 

[deathbound]

I used the Rusty Hope brackets/parts list. Very happy with it for the last 4 years or so, and as mentioned, the customer service from Charlie was great. Here's a link to my thread on the conversion, with a couple other things thrown in. Only thing not in the thread-I changed the 1/4" lines I originally installed to 3/16" lines.

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/26625-new-front-disc-brakes-front-end-rebuild-steering-rebuild-for-the-38-plymouth/

 

 

[JD luxury liner]

Is this the residual valve that needs to be removed?

And then install inline 2 lb front & 10 lb for drum

[dale]

Can you convert to disc brakes on the front and still use the original Plymouth rims ?

[deathbound]

I did, with the Rusty Hope kit. My stock Plymouth rims are 16" though. Not sure about 15", but there were no disclaimers in the instructions saying 15" would not work.

[dale]

I wish I had known that they make double master cylinders with booster and brake pedal attached that bolt where the original ones were on the 46-48 Plymouths.   $249 @ Speedway motors...  Think I may still do that if I can convert to front discs and still use the original rims.

[dale]

Rusty hope.. Ill see if I can find the site.  THX

[deathbound]

Rusty hope.. Ill see if I can find the site.  THX

http://rustyhope.com/site/

[Robert Horne]

I wish I had known that they make double master cylinders with booster and brake pedal attached that bolt where the original ones were on the 46-48 Plymouths.   $249 @ Speedway motors...  Think I may still do that if I can convert to front discs and still use the original rims.

On my 48 Dodge I installed a Mustang II master cylinder.

Did not remove the stock MC, or pedals.

I just ran a long rod through the stock MC.

Several people here have done this procedure.

[nonstop]

Granted, my car is a little newer (1954), but I used the Scarebird kit on the front and am running 15 inch wheels. Same thing, uses parts available at any store. I used the ECI master cylinder kit and am very happy. Speedway sells an adapter for a power booster, so I am running a dual diaphragm 7 inch booster with my kit.

[fstfish66]

we did a rusty hope kit on  my  friends 40  plymouth,parts list  was correct no  problems,,,it uses  volare or  mopar F body rotors 11 inch diameter,,5x4.5 bolt pattern,,some of the other kits use a ford  probe rotor ,if  i remember correctly the ford probe rotors are only 9 inch  diameter,,,better stopping power with an  11 inch rotor, we are not useing a factory  wheel on the 40  ply,so the 11 inch  volare  rotors have no clearance issues,,,if there are clearance issues with a stock 40 wheel the 9 inch rotor should  take care of that,ask around,

 

just so you know, no matter  who,s  kit you use except  (ECI this kit  has a complete hub and  rotor assembly dont  now if this kit requires drilling or not.)  all  other kits require you to drill out the 2 lower mounting holes on the  spindle and steering arm, and use the  supplied bigger bolts , then you will have to grind those  bolts after installed so they do not  rub on the rotor, none of this is HARD, but you will need a GOOD drill,GOOD drill bits, and a GOOD  tap,,,well worth it in the end,,,we have power disc brakes now  on this 40  ply and  its like  driving a more modern  car  like the  1970/80s era,,,

 

i think  i have  pic  of my  disc brake  set up on my 40 dodge  if  u need to see it

[casper50]

I used  scarebird front kit and did not have to do any drilling.

[fstfish66]

I used  scarebird front kit and did not have to do any drilling.

interesting    good to  know

[deathbound]

we did a rusty hope kit on  my  friends 40  plymouth,parts list  was correct no  problems,,,it uses  volare or  mopar F body rotors 11 inch diameter,,5x4.5 bolt pattern,,some of the other kits use a ford  probe rotor ,if  i remember correctly the ford probe rotors are only 9 inch  diameter,,,better stopping power with an  11 inch rotor, we are not useing a factory  wheel on the 40  ply,so the 11 inch  volare  rotors have no clearance issues,,,if there are clearance issues with a stock 40 wheel the 9 inch rotor should  take care of that,ask around,

 

just so you know, no matter  who,s  kit you use except  (ECI this kit  has a complete hub and  rotor assembly dont  now if this kit requires drilling or not.)  all  other kits require you to drill out the 2 lower mounting holes on the  spindle and steering arm, and use the  supplied bigger bolts , then you will have to grind those  bolts after installed so they do not  rub on the rotor, none of this is HARD, but you will need a GOOD drill,GOOD drill bits, and a GOOD  tap,,,well worth it in the end,,,we have power disc brakes now  on this 40  ply and  its like  driving a more modern  car  like the  1970/80s era,,,

 

i think  i have  pic  of my  disc brake  set up on my 40 dodge  if  u need to see it

 

Any pics of the power disc set-up (master, booster, etc.) on the '40 Plymouth?

[fstfish66]

Any pics of the power disc set-up (master, booster, etc.) on the '40 Plymouth?

sorry no  pics of the 40  ply  brakes,,looking for the pics on  my 40 dodge, may  not  be  down  loaded yet  if  i find them  i will  post

[Bmartin]

I used the Rusty Hope kit and had a number of issues getting the caliper bleed screws to seal.  There are two different size bleeders on the calipers for that application.  One is a 9 or 10 mm and the other is an 8 mm.  Look for the ones with the 8mm.  Once I got two of those, the leaking stopped.  I also had issues with the copper washer sealing to the caliper and brake hose.  I used a trick mentioned on the board of tightening the bolt, then tapping with a hammer and repeating.  This helps the grooves press into the copper washers. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

Bmartin, on 05 Jan 2016 - 2:12 PM, said:

I used the Rusty Hope kit and had a number of issues getting the caliper bleed screws to seal.  There are two different size bleeders on the calipers for that application.  One is a 9 or 10 mm and the other is an 8 mm.  Look for the ones with the 8mm.  Once I got two of those, the leaking stopped.  I also had issues with the copper washer sealing to the caliper and brake hose.  I used a trick mentioned on the board of tightening the bolt, then tapping with a hammer and repeating.  This helps the grooves press into the copper washers. 

I can feel you frustration on the brake kit install but Rusty Hope only supplies part number and has no hand in the manufacture, remanufacture or warranty of any over the counter part sold by the retailer.   Sad to say, issues like this will continue as long as low bid is the prime concern in process/contract.  Copper washer issues run rampant across the industry these days.

[mopar_earl]

No drilling or tapping on ECI kit. Also comes complete, no gathering up the parts. ECI uses billet hubs and floating rotors.

Earl

[Don Coatney]

Read this (linked below) thread in its entirety for more ECI information,

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/20422-krap/?hl=krap

[mopar_earl]

FYI, the ECI dual master cylinder kits are different depending on the year and if you have fluid drive coupling or not. Also it makes a difference if your clutch pedal is on the frame or on the master cylinder. My bracket kit wasn't anything like Dons in the above link.

Earl