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Bmartin

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Everything posted by Bmartin

  1. Got this done as best I can right now. 1 - 10%, through crankcase 2 - 15%, through crankcase 3 - 7%, through crankcase 4 - 10% through crankcase 5 - 20-25%, some through crankcase, maybe some through exhaust, hard to tell 6 - I bought the engine from the builder, and when it arrived the #6 sparkplug was threaded in at an angle. Threads are hosed up. I threw a new plug in it when it arrived and have not touched it since. Plug looked good when I pulled it for this. I can't get a good seal around the tube for the check. It was around 25% with the leaking threads. So I'm just going to assume it would be good if I got a seal. #5 - seems to have an issue, although I'll need to think on how I can further diagnose. Interesting that it is one of the further pistons from the fuel pump.
  2. I was messing with this today and it was not making sense. Then I realized the fan pulley is not the same diameter as the crank pulley. So marking the fan pulley wont work. It needs to be the crank. Guess I will give that a shot next.
  3. Correct, I can rock it front to back of the vehicle. Not as if the bolt holes were wallowed out, left to right of the vehicle. I only have basic knowledge of engine internals. I was reading the service manual and saw the process for measuring clearances using a feeler gauge/shim steel. Plastigauge may be easier. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the input. I got the fender off yesterday and pulled the valve covers. Will work on the leakdown as soon as I get the time.
  4. Interesting. This would seem to mean that oil pressure is not a reliable indicator of main bearing condition, or at least in this case. As for the bearing swap, its possible. But it has not run as well since the fuel pump incident. Still working on a full diagnosis. Concerned that a valve may have been damaged by the flailing metal. Need to finish up the leakdown check as a next step.
  5. My fuel pump actuator arm fell off into the block on a road trip, swapped on the side of the road and it promptly did the same thing within 10 miles. Got it home and dropped the pan and it was not pretty. Silver soup and a nice silver coating on everything. Actuator #1 was chewed up by the crank and bounced pieces all around. Cam lobe is chewed up. In my inspection, I grabbed the crank bearing caps and I can rock them back and forth. So my question is, how is it that I still read good oil pressure? It sits at 40 lbs most of the time. If I bog down the engine to 6-800 RPM, after a full heat cycle, it'll drop into the 18-20 range. But comes right back up. I would have thought with that much clearance, I'd have low pressure. For history, this is a relatively fresh build I had done. Maybe 5k miles on it. Curious on opinions.
  6. Thanks for the process. I'll give that a try. Hopefully saves me from pulling the fender for now. I need it mobile for a while yet.
  7. I'm attempting to perform a leakdown check on each cylinder. Since the flatheads only have access to the #6 piston top, is there way to determine TDC of cylinders 2-5? I am not sure if you could use the status of 6 to determine the other 4 or not. Engine is in the car and running, access to the valve covers is extremely difficult without pulling the fender. Thanks.
  8. Thanks for the input. I realize now that I'll be muscling it all back together as a unit. Perhaps that is the easiest route as it avoids any dissection of the OD itself. If I can't find a spreader spring, then I'll clean this one up a bit and use it. The back side has some wear marks in it that I can easily catch with my finger nail.
  9. I ran into an issue. The Spreader Spring is not longer available from Northwest Transmission. Does anyone have any other sources for this? I'll try Ebay, but its unlikely I'll get that lucky.
  10. 9 foot box: thanks for the advice, I will look into that when I am ready to reassemble. James_Douglas: Thanks for the background, I will PM you my email address. I would love to have any and all info I can get. The more literature I have as reference the better I can triple check everything. rekbender: I was incorrect, the spreader spring is in the clutch hub as you show. Sorry for the confusion. Laynrubber: Thanks, thats the second vote I've gotten for Northwest. I'll be calling them tomorrow.
  11. JohnS48plm: Thanks for the source, I'll check them out!
  12. Thanks for all the replys! laynrubber: If you could point mein the direction of a good source for parts, that would go a long way to helping me out. Much appreciated. DJ194950: Sounds like I took it apart the way it has to go, so thats reassuring. Ill just have to muscle it back together when the time comes. At least I don't have to deal with the OD internals. Thanks. rekbender: That is extremely helpful! Makes sense, since the other manual I have is for a 1940 Plymouth. So its not there either. Its definitely a part I'd like to swap to be safe. It shows some wear, but I would be surprised if its the ulitmate reason for my issues. oldasdirt: Looks like that spreader spring got introduce later on, so an older manual shown above is big help. The OD worked great so no worries there, just wanted to make sure I was dissembling things correctly. Its far from a basket case, I can get it back together in a couple hours with my buddies help. Just want to doublecheck if I can. Thanks for the help.
  13. I have an R10 overdrive that has shifting issues in 2nd. It’s a fresh rebuild, but it grinds into 2nd gear. I picked up the Overdrive book from fifthavegarage but its different than what I have. I’m guessing its geared more towards a Ford/Chevy/Lincoln. Anyway, I got the OD off the trans, but the main shaft came with it. I’m looking for a manual that will apply to this specific transmission, I’m guessing its going to be a mopar manual from a car that this trans came in from the factory. If someone could point me to the correct manual, that would be much appreciated. Along those same lines, I’d like to find some parts for it. I need a new gasket kit, possibly a rear output seal if that has to come out, and the welch plugs. I’d also like to replace the sychronizer shifting plates if possible as they are showing a little wear. The syncrhos look brand new. I need to know where to find parts. When disassembling, I thought the spacer between the trans and OD would stay with the OD, but its bolted to the OD. So when reassembling, I’d like to get the main shaft out of the OD and installed in the trans first. Then put the OD on. Seems it would be easier to get the roller bearings on the main shaft. I’ll need the correct manual to do that safely. Lastly, I have a question on what this part is. Its some sort of spring, but I can’t see it in either the manuals I have. It was on the 2nd gear synchro. All help is greatly appreciated.
  14. I tightened down that nut but it does not stay and loosens up over time from the movement. As long as its supposed to be square, I will get it fixed up so that it is good for the long hall. Its out already anyway.
  15. Sorry, the text is on the bottom, not sure what happened. The gear selector rod on my Plymouth has an hour glass shape to it as does the bracket. I'm about to take it to a gentleman who can weld them up and make them square. I just wanted to make sure that this is the way it was from the factory. Its an odd wear pattern to me, and almost looks intentional with the way it pivots in the bracket. So, is this supposed to be square?
  16. Not sure if it was here or the HAMB but there was a write up with pics of a guy who had two sets of stock uprights. He cut the kingpin boss off of one set and welded it up higher. Somehow used the other set for alignment. Hopefully you can search better than I can. Its up to you on whether or not you think welding to cast steel is safe. Of course this still may not solve your interference issue because I don't remember if he swapped to disc's or not. EDIT: Looks like it was olddaddy. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/reversing-the-uprights-on-1940-plymouth-coupe.125109/
  17. I think I am going to hang on to them for now. I may use them in the future.
  18. If I remember correctly, fatman requires a disc brake conversion for the uprights. I've got a set of their uprights that I have swapped in and out to try and get the right height. I have a 40. The main issue I had is that the Fatman uprights push the wheels out somewhere along the lines of 1/2". This was too much for me as the tires are tucked and already close to the fender. It put my tire right into the fender. The disk brakes actually kick the track wider as well. More like 1/4", but with it being this tight, everything matters. I went with cut Moogs on mine and the ride is firm but good.
  19. I will say that the engine acts different, but not a cure. Seems like less stumbling at tip in but goes quickly to choking at any more throttle. Its not very consistent.
  20. When spraying fuel at the base of the carb around the spacer, do I need to worry about any secondary effects? I noticed that the starter fluid has a cooling effect. If the idle goes down, can I be sure that a vaccum leak is causing that?
  21. He has not been all that helpful. I'm in AZ and he is in PA so there is the trouble of working over the phone.
  22. For reference, this a fresh built engine, built by George Asche, carbs and all. I worked on the balance and got them about 90%, still struggling with the linkage adjustment. Still no change.
  23. OK, I have one on order. Hope to get it by Sunday. If there is anything else I should try in the meantime, let me know. Especially looking for any first hand experience with this setup.
  24. The only syncing I have done is to match the throttle linkages to be equal, and only visually. Same visually for the idle mixture. I set the idle mixture for max vaccum, measured at the manifold output for the wipers. If there is a process for syncing them, I'd love to read about it. First time with carbs for me. Don: Do you have a name for that contraption so I can read up on it?
  25. I am having trouble solving an issue on my new engine,maybe 100 miles on it. I have a 230 with a milled head, split manifolds with true duals, and an Edmunds dual carb intake with two factory B&B's. I have a stumble at throttle tip-in and have to feather throttle to get it to take off smoothly. I've tried the middle position on the accelerator pump as well as the winter (richest) setting. Currently at the richest setting. Only real difference I noticed was needing more return spring to keep the throttle from hanging. Seems to improve some with higher engine temps, but I have trouble getting it fully heat soaked since there are no hood or fenders right now. The weather is also cool. Temp is sitting at 160-180 typically. Ignition: I'm running a twelve volt system with resistor wires, Autolite 295's gapped at .025, and twelve volt coil with internal resistor. Plugs have been reading lean to good. Timing: I set piston 6 at TDC, the rotor pointed to cylinder #1, and timing indicator was right at the center mark on the pulley. I have tried 0 advance, about 4 degrees advance, and also about 12 degrees advance - amazingly I never detected any pinging. Gears: I'm a little under geared right now with 3.55's in the rear and 29" tall tires. So it bogs a little at take off. Still stumbles when moving if the revs drop low enough <~1200 rpm. Factory 3 speed with O/D but thats locked out right now. I'm looking for some ideas to try and especially any first hand experience. For those with a similar setup, do you have any stumble or does it roll away from a stop as smooth as stock? Do you have to feather the throttle at all? Right now I'm wondering if I have to go with Tom Langdons two barrel carbs to get rid of this. Any help is appreciated.
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