James_Douglas Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 Hi all. Anyone have a source for crankshaft sprocket shims? I got a new sprocket, cam gear, and chain, and of course the sprocket is too far "in" on the crankshaft. Funny thing is that my 1949 and 1950 Master Parts Books do not show the shims, however, my 1946- 1948 book does. The part numbers are: 537-829 (0.003) and 537-821 (0.003) Does anyone have a photo of these shims? I think they have to have a cut for the key as well as being round. Thanks, James. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 Why don't you just make one out of shim stock? I've never seen any of those MoPar shims. Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Posted December 7, 2015 No doubt because they are hardened. A soft shim will "cold flow" over time causing it to thin out and disintegrate. Little bits of metal in the timing gear is not something I like :-) James. Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Posted December 7, 2015 I found this in an old box of block miscellaneous parts. Could this be one of the shims? Anyone see this part before? I have some vague memory of seeing one of these on my '47 Engine, but It has been over 10 years since I had that one apart. James Quote
wayfarer Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 First, it seems odd that your chain is so exact that it will not accommodate 0.003" mis-alignment between sprockets. Soft shim stock, like brass or aluminum, will cold flow as you worry, but a steel shim under the anticipated usage will not migrate any faster than the crank snout itself. If such a small amount is critical could you not just remove 0.003 from the cam sprocket or is something else in the way? 1 Quote
mopar_earl Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 I found this in an old box of block miscellaneous parts. Could this be one of the shims? Anyone see this part before? I have some vague memory of seeing one of these on my '47 Engine, but It has been over 10 years since I had that one apart. James Looks like an oil slinger to me. Earl 1 Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Posted December 7, 2015 I just pulled off the new one. It is 1.033 inch thick. I have an original and it is 1.043. Difference is 0.010 or 10 thou. Interesting in that the original shims are .003 and .010 inch. Also, the fact of the cam gear is .002 to .003 out from the face of the block as opposed to two used originals. So, the effective offset is .0.013 inch. Not trivial when we are talking about gears and chains. That amount of side loading will kill the life of the gears and chain. James. Quote
Andydodge Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 James, that part looks like the oil slinger to me, although my Oz 36-42 and 46 to 53 workshop manuals don't show or mention it, but I have seen it listed somewhere and from memory the 230 engine I had did have one..........dunno if this helps......lol..............andyd Quote
mopar_earl Posted December 7, 2015 Report Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) I recall reading somewhere that some engines have a oil nozzle to lube the timing chain and some don't. The ones that don't have the nozzle have an oil slinger on the crank to splash lube the chain. If I recall correctly they changed it due to the nozzles plugging up and no oil to chain. Don't recall where I read this or if its correct. My 52 230 has the nozzle. Earl Edited December 7, 2015 by mopar_earl Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 8, 2015 Report Posted December 8, 2015 The nozzle was dropped in 1956-59? Then a trough dripper plate as I recall . Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 8, 2015 Report Posted December 8, 2015 No doubt because they are hardened. A soft shim will "cold flow" over time causing it to thin out and disintegrate. Little bits of metal in the timing gear is not something I like :-) James. I'm sure with your tenacity you could find the proper material. personally I wouldn't be too concerned about cold flow on a hot rod flathead. Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Posted December 8, 2015 I found some hardened stock at McMaster-Carr. I have it incoming. My machinist will cut them out on a jet cutter. Does anyone know where that oil slinger I posted a photo of goes? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 8, 2015 Report Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) The oil slinger goes to the front side of the crank gear... deflects oil from the front seal. Edited December 8, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
dpollo Posted December 9, 2015 Report Posted December 9, 2015 I have had a lot of these engines apart and have never seen one without a nozzle. I have a 59 engine on the bench now and it has the tube. The slinger, if used , goes between the front pulley hub and the crankshaft sprocket Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 9, 2015 Report Posted December 9, 2015 Yea Dave... I think you are right on the oil tube nozzle being used on all the flatheads up through the 265's no drip trough. I looked through my MoPar truck parts book..shows the nozzle on the 251's. The troughs on the V-8's must be what i was thinking. Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Posted December 11, 2015 I have confirmed that the crankshaft sprocket I have was made by melling. It is 1.032 and an original MOPAR is 1.042. So, depending on what crankshaft you have, where the step is machined, your sprocket will be too close to the engine. Side loading is not good on those parts. You can get shim stock, mine is on the way. A good shop with a jet cutter can cut the shims. I checked an melling is the only supplier of these sprockets. So, if someone gets one...it will be the same. Best, James 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted December 11, 2015 Report Posted December 11, 2015 Thank you for the heads up James as I have several rebuilds coming up. Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 12, 2015 Author Report Posted December 12, 2015 Just a follow up on this. This morning I mounted the new Cam Gear and torqued it down. I then placed a starrett straight edge on it. I measured across the center of the cam gear. The crankshaft sprocket was 0.035 Inch in toward the block. That is a LOT! So, I will have to have three 0.010 shims cut and two .003 shims cut. With that the cam gear and the sprocket will be in alignment to within 0.001 inch. Should be good enough. In the event you buy a new set of gears or place them onto a different crankshaft or cam plate, get a straight edge and see if they are in line! Best, James Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 13, 2015 Report Posted December 13, 2015 Seems like that cam gear was machined improperly. Way too much offset. Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 13, 2015 Report Posted December 13, 2015 Almost sounds like the the crankshaft gear was installed with the bevel forward rather than toward the rear??. Something seems to be off, but what? DJ 1 Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Posted December 16, 2015 Gear on the correct way and cam gear within .004 compared to stock. The sprocket is .010 thinner than stock and the neck of the crank is about .025 further in than the other cranks I have around. James Quote
stan's52 Posted December 16, 2015 Report Posted December 16, 2015 You may need to cut your own. Mc Master Carr has a good selection of shims, and shim stock. You may even find one already cut out. Stan Quote
_shel_ny Posted December 16, 2015 Report Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) ... Edited December 17, 2015 by shel_ny Quote
stan's52 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Posted December 17, 2015 Like I said: you may find one already cut out. They have a good selection of ready made round shims. Stan Quote
James_Douglas Posted December 18, 2015 Author Report Posted December 18, 2015 Like I said: you may find one already cut out. They have a good selection of ready made round shims. Stan Checked. They did not have anything with the correct dimensions. Quote
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