Tatback Posted September 26, 2015 Author Report Posted September 26, 2015 Fuel system is all original except new lines, but no return. Quote
Tatback Posted September 26, 2015 Author Report Posted September 26, 2015 Really think that simple thing could be it? Quote
casper50 Posted September 26, 2015 Report Posted September 26, 2015 My 47 is not a sealed fuel system. Cap is vented. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 26, 2015 Report Posted September 26, 2015 Donald was saying IF your cap is air tight...BAD... Quote
Tatback Posted September 26, 2015 Author Report Posted September 26, 2015 Plymouthy, unless the caps are designed to only vent one way my cap is airtight. I did a pressure test to test my new fuel bung and had the gas cap on and duck tape over the float hole and it held pressure. Lots of pressure without leaking out of the cap at all. It wasn't until the duck tape tore and scared me enough for me to try and stand up in the wheel well out of reaction. I looked like a 10 pound turtle trying to hind in a shell meant for a 2 pound turtle Quote
DonaldSmith Posted September 26, 2015 Report Posted September 26, 2015 Probably the fuel pump is not the cause of your tapping noise. That would be too simple. And maddening, if that was all it was. But at any rate, your gas cap should be vented. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 26, 2015 Report Posted September 26, 2015 the importance of owning and reading your factory repair manual...fuel section and paragraph 1 on the fuel tank states 46-52 and 53/54 station wagon use a vented cap... 53/54 sedans and the style of the fill nozzle made use of an aux vent system so to prevent puking on the painted surface of the gravel shield. 1 Quote
Tatback Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Posted October 2, 2015 Sorry Plymouthy... When I ordered a new fuel cap I just went through Andy bernbaum. I made that order with a few other things including the shop manual. After Kenny briefly looked at the engine, he is convinced it's my piston slapping around inside the cylinder. Question is do I try to sleeve it (already 60 over) and hope that solves the issue or do I buy this other 251 that's a mile from me. Supposedly ran great two months ago when it was bought for a rat rod and they went in a different direction in terms of engine size and power. Asking price for it is 600 bucks. From what I'm told it's pretty much complete. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 only you can make the call on the engine replace verse repair...I would find it hard to believe only one piston would have slapping given the set has run together for all these miles equally....is this noise when cold and goes away/subsides when hot or stays with you all through the spectrum at same slap rate/level...there is usually a degree of noise abatement when the piston approaches operating temperature.. Quote
Tatback Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Posted October 2, 2015 I know, it's just a tough decision. Do I sink almost the same into this engine and hope everything works out or do I take a chance with another whole engine and then have a parts engine/ part it out.... And the noise starts right after the engine starts up and keep with the RPM's the whole spectrum. Doesn't go away when the engine warms up. Right before the video I took with the noise I took the car a mile up the road and it was there the whole way. I could hear it inside the car but people outside said they couldn't hear it while I was driving. The number 1 piston looks nasty, much worse than the others and I think that's what he's going by. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 You neeed another "good" engine or a complete rebuild IMO. Quote
Tatback Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Posted October 2, 2015 I did let the engine sit with new oil and MMO for two months. Could any noise be coming from the oil pump if it sucked up sludge or if that happened my oil pressure would of dropped right? Sorry just thinking out loud again. Quote
Tatback Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Posted October 2, 2015 Dodge, if that's the case I'll go and check out the engine. The guy selling it owns a motorcycle shop and has a couple funny cars. So if he was buying it for his rat rod I'm hoping he wouldn't buy junk. Quote
Tatback Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Posted October 2, 2015 He's asking 600 so maybe I can get him down a hundred or two if I'm really lucky. But on a brighter note... My rewire worked great and all the lights are incredibly bright and working now. The all new brakes work and the car actually stops AND the transmission shifts really quietly and smoothly when letting off the pedal to shift... Woohoo! 1 Quote
soth122003 Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 Hey Tat, I'm of the same opinion as a few others here. Hard to believe that one piston is making all that racket. Have you tried using the inside micrometer tools and measuring the piston walls for out of round? Also try using a feeler gage and check the gap between the piston and walls and the rings and walls. With that much racket, you would expect and pretty good gap of .005 or greater. Joe Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 Looks like some deep rust pitting in cylinder #1. The engine must have sat for a long time possibly with the spark plug (plugs) out or the head off..... not good. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 I suspect wrist pin failure as it can be very noisy. Quote
DJ194950 Posted October 2, 2015 Report Posted October 2, 2015 The top of piston #1 appears to me me to be a case of a newbe mechanic using a very stiff power wire wheel to clean off the carbon build up and made the grooves in the piston top by using using too much pressure. Maybe someone stopped him from doing repeats on #2-#6 piston. Did Almost that bad as a 16 yr. old and that is what gave me that memory. Bought a good running engine that had set for about 3 months and installed it in a car. Ran fine for about 6 months- quiet and strong. Parked car for about 3 months after I bought a newer car and decided the motor and trans would be cheap setup for my new/very old/worn out 37 Ply, bus. cpe. Right after the first first drive with the motor it had a knock! Turned out one of the rod upper bushings froze to the piston pin and was rotating in the upper rod end. It was Not working good that way and wore out very quickly= the new knock. 2 steps forward and one big one back? Hope not! Best of luck! DJ 2 Quote
Darbone85737 Posted October 3, 2015 Report Posted October 3, 2015 Looks like some deep rust pitting in cylinder #1. The engine must have sat for a long time possibly with the spark plug (plugs) out or the head off..... not good. One of the first things I noticed when my car was parked outside was that if it rained the seam in the hood would allow water onto the top of the engine, settling into the spark plug hole recesses.. If a plug was slightly loose or the car sat for extended periods I thought it might be possible for water to enter the cylinder. Living in the desert this is not a real problem for me but worth noting. I just had my engine rebuilt and after less than 100 miles it started making noise in the # 1 cylinder. Turned out the rod bearings and journals were seriously scored. The mains are fine. I had to pull the engine and it's back with the machinist. I'm pretty angry but it will be repaired at their expense. Really don't know what they did wrong but I will do the reassembly myself. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 3, 2015 Report Posted October 3, 2015 What brand of rod bearings were installed? Quote
Tatback Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Posted October 3, 2015 Thank you for everyone for all the time taken to help and diagnose my problem. I found the issue today.... http://youtu.be/bIj8RG1n_rU The crack you see in the cylinder wall is actually the high point. I think it's safe to say that its the cause of the noise Quote
Andydodge Posted October 3, 2015 Report Posted October 3, 2015 Tat........hard to see what you are talking about.......is it halfway down the bore running across?..........andyd Quote
Tatback Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Posted October 3, 2015 Sorry it was the closest I could get my phone to the cylinder. Ill try and lower the phone into the cylinder to get a better video. Its the crack the is running left to right in the video. The wall actually comes in towards the piston and the crack is the highest point. The noise was the piston hitting that ridge. Lets just pretend someone was trying to get their Water Distribution Tube unstuck and used a rather large flathead screwdriver and rather large hammer. While said person was hammering the screwdriver down the side of the tube the diamond shape of the screwdriver shaft couldn't occupy the same space as the cylinder wall and the cylinder wall gave way going in towards the piston and cracking right at the peak. Quote
Darbone85737 Posted October 3, 2015 Report Posted October 3, 2015 What brand of rod bearings were installed? I'm not certain. I'll have to ask. Any suggestions ? Quote
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