Generators

[Merle Coggins]

Once again I am having generator issues. It started acting up when up at Back to the 50's. I needed progressively higher RPM to get the regulator's circuit breaker contacts to close. By the time I got home it wouldn't charge anymore. I finally had a chance to test it and the generator won't output any voltage unless I jump the BAT and ARM contacts on the regulator at around 1000 RPM. Then it will output 7 volts. I have pulled it to take to the starter/generator shop, but I haven't made it over there yet.

 

In the mean time I found a spare generator in my stash that had a narrow pulley. I swapped pulleys and mounted the spare. It works well, but I noticed a bit more end play than I'd like. If I can get my original gen repaired, again, I may then take in the spare to be gone through as a backup.

 

I've also been on the hunt for a good generator to have on hand, just in case. I found one that supposedly came off a '48 Chrysler and has the wide pulley that I need. However, the model number is quite different than mine. I have a GGW6001B  6V  40A Autolite generator. The one I'm looking at is an ISGBW4803A according the the seller. Does anyone have an Autolite manual that has specs that can be cross referenced? I'm wondering if this gen will work for me.

 

Merle

[Jeff Balazs]

Merle;

I gave you a freshly gone through generator.......is this the one you are having problems with? Northwest Starter repaired that one and it had zero miles on it.

 

Jeff

[Dave72dt]

I checked a MOTORS manual from 1957, covered '47 to '57.   All the Autolite generators started with a G prefix for Chrysler products, Fords had a F or B prefix and a think a couple other companies may have had an M prefix,  Delcos all started with a 1.  Taking the IS off your number and starting with GB, I would guess it would be it to be pre '47 as the earliest I found started with GC in '47 and increased alphabetically as models and years changed.  Still guessing, I would say it's going to be a 30 amp unit, 35 at best.

[Dave72dt]

\just found one doing a search for GBW4803-A, shows it for a '30's Chrysler, some Dodges, 22 amps

http://www.prewarcar.com/index.php?option=com_caradvert&view=ad&section_id=3&id=170140&Itemid=433

Edited August 3, 2015 by Dave72dt

[Merle Coggins]

Thanks Dave. That confirms my suspicion. The numbers off the tag that the seller sent me were "isgbw-4803a 6 r051887 22". Not sure where the "is" came from. I wondered if it should be just GBW. And the last two numbers, "22", I was wondering if it was the Amps.

 

Jeff, I greatly appreciated getting that generator from you. I used it a short time until I had mine repaired. It was rebuilt with a new armature and I reinstalled it. Mine has the wider pulley for my 5/8" belt. The one I got from you has the narrow 1/2" pulley. I was planning to keep it for a good spare, but then I was contacted by (I think it was) Hank, and he was needing a generator. So I shipped it back to California. Then last year when going through some stuff I found another one that I had. It also has the narrow pulley. That's the one on my truck now, but I swapped pulleys. It is working OK, but seems to have a little too much end play.

 

I dropped my generator off at the shop this afternoon. Upon inspection they found that the solder has been spun out of the armature again. It's the same failure as it had 2 years ago. Their generator guy, Marsh, will look at it tomorrow and see what's going on. I don't know why it would keep melting the solder out of the armature. Its not like I'm overloading the electrical system and making it work that hard. It typically runs with the ammeter just to the right of 0. Both times it happened when I had my truck in Minnesota. It must be those nasty Gophers across the border.

 

That all being said, I must say that this is the greatest bunch of guys on the planet. Within 10 minutes after posting this thread I got a text from Todd B stating that he had a few extra generators and would check the model numbers for me. I don't know if I'll need a 3rd one, but it never hurts to have options. First I'll see what it'll take to get my original one fixed. Then I may have them go through the current spare and keep it handy. However, I would have to change the pulley to make it functional for my engine. Or maybe I could get one from Todd that would be a perfect spare. Then I could possibly help out someone else with my current spare.

 

I'm beginning to think a 6v alternator. like Jeff's, would solve my problems, but then it would loose that old timey look under the hood.

 

Stay tuned...

[Don Coatney]

It is possible to convert a 6 volt generator to a 6 volt alternator to maintain the old timey look.

 

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_541/6-Volt-Positive-Ground-L6-and-V8-engines-Ford-Chrysler-Desoto-Packard.htm

 

6 Volt Positive Ground L6 and V8 engines (Ford Chrysler Desoto Packard)

 

Get that nostalgic look of a generator and the reliable charging power of an alternator all in one! These alternators are designed to fit where the original generator was mounted.

If you want the look of an original generator, but the reliability and power of a modern alternator, the PowerGen from Powermaster is the answer. The PowerGen looks just like the generator your classic car came with or it can add the traditional look to any hot rod or street rod. But this is not old technology; it's a modern, powerful alternator that can keep up with all of the latest electrical accessories you have added to your ride. PowerGEN’s offer one-wire operation, producing 75 amps, with a whopping 60 amps at idle and is only 1/4'' larger in diameter than a stock generator. They have a black finish just like the original generator.

Comes with pulley for 3/8” belt. Other pulleys options are available upon request.

 

[Merle Coggins]

Yes Don, I've thought about that too. I hadn't seen that company. $400 is a bit pricy, and they are out of stock on what I would need.

I have known about the Gener-nator. http://www.gener-nator.com/index.htm  I have sent them an email for a quote. It'll probably be at lease as pricy. I don't know if it's in the budget right now, but it's good to know my options.

Edited August 4, 2015 by Merle Coggins

[Dave72dt]

If your generator has a 3rd brush that's adjustable, maybe have your repair shop turn down the amp production a bit. If you're not using that many amps, you don't need it to be producing at max level, maybe check out your amp gauge as well for accuracy. Changing your pulley diameter so the gen runs a bit slower may also help. It'll kick in at a higher RPM though. Did the problem occur after extended night driving?

[Merle Coggins]

Current regulation is handled in the Voltage Regulator.

Come to think of it, I drove up to Appleton the evening before driving to MN for BTT50's. at least 2/3 of that trip was with lights on. And when it failed the first time, 2 years ago, I was coming home from the WPC meet in MN, on a rainy day with the lights on. Maybe my ammeter isn't showing the full current draw for some reason. Even when running with the lights on it'll show just a little to the + side of the gauge. It will swing to near -10 at idle with brake lights on as well, but will quickly go back to the + side once driving again. If it discharges enough it may show up to +10 initially, but will settle back under +5 while driving.

[Young Ed]

Merle on my 46 I had the headlights wired wrong so they didn't reflect on the ammeter. I didn't know anything was wrong until my first battery was dying. Then I started to wonder why I wasn't seeing a - indicated and figured it out. With the engine off do you see negatives with the headlights on? What about with the brake lights on? If that seems ok your slightly + indication while driving seems normal.

[Jeff Balazs]

Well I only have positive things to say about my alternator conversion. I think it is a natural progression or evolution in running something this old.  I have a lot of extra stuff on my truck and it keeps up so well I don't have to give it a thought. May not look stock but it gets a big thumbs up from me. Makes staying with a 6 volt system very trouble free.

 

Jeff

[48Dodger]

I'll dig through my gen's for you Merle...for the future, for the next deal, to hit gophers with....I don't build to many of the L6 egines, so I should have a few to pick from.

 

Hope the rebuild fixes the problem.

 

48D

[TrampSteer]

....I don't build to many of the L6 egines

Yeah - you don't get the fastest pilothouse in the world with a stock 218!

[Merle Coggins]

So, an update on this saga...

 

I got a call from Marsh at MJ Auto Electric saying the generator looks good and performs perfectly. So I stop in to talk with him further. He put it back on the machine and spun it up. Sure enough, it puts out good voltage and amperage. Not sure why I couldn't get anything out of it in the truck. So today I brought in the voltage regulator that was on the truck when this all came about. I also brought in the new regulator that I was using with the spare generator, that all worked well. He hooked up the new one, polarized it and it charges perfectly. Right at 7 volts and up to 40 amps before he stopped pushing it. We then tried the previous regulator and it didn't do so well. It could get it charging but it seemed weak.

 

So, contrary to my test results there appears to be nothing wrong with my generator. Now I just need to find time to put it back in and retest things.

 

I still have a Gener-nator in mind, but with a quote of over $900 it may have to wait a bit.

 

Merle

[ggdad1951]

I still have a Gener-nator in mind, but with a quote of over $900 it may have to wait a bit.

 

Merle

 

I think you should put that on/make it your wedding registry item!