Let there be light, Dome light.

[wolfy]

  On 6/30/2015 at 5:38 PM, Dave72dt said:

If you have 2 wires at the dome light, disconnect the ground wire.  If the light now goes out, your ground wire is making contact somewhere.  If it does not go out, you have a problem of some type in the dome light itself.

 

 

Okay so I just did this. and the light did NOT go out.  I disconnect the ground wire and when the I put the base back in to grounds out and bam light comes back on.  

[Dave72dt]

So that means you have a problem with the light itself.  You need to find out where it is grounding  to the base.

[wolfy]

  On 7/1/2015 at 2:21 AM, Dave72dt said:

So that means you have a problem with the light itself.  You need to find out where it is grounding  to the base.

 

Sounds right.  I can tell you where it is grounding out.  It is screwed to some metal plate on the roof of the car.  Metal screws with a metal dome light, to the metal base on the car = good ground.  

 

So my next test will be to hook everything back up and then leave the dome light un attached but wired up with power and ground, and see what it does.  if it works like this then the ground is for sure the issue.  

 

My next question is how do you all have the dome light attached without having it grounded? 

[Dave72dt]

Is the light socket supposed to be insulated from the base? If not, the base will have to be insulated from the plate ands the attaching screws.  If you still have all the door switches out, it's going to think the doors are open and the light will still be on when testing

[wolfy]

  On 7/1/2015 at 2:54 AM, Dave72dt said:

Is the light socket supposed to be insulated from the base? If not, the base will have to be insulated from the plate ands the attaching screws.  If you still have all the door switches out, it's going to think the doors are open and the light will still be on when testing

Thanks.  I am not sure what is supposed to be insulated and what isn't.  

 

Maybe it is something as simple as an incorrect bulb?  Right now I did some research and found that the 1158 bulb was "supposed" to be there.  So that is what I am running.  Can someone verify that is the correct bulb?

 

So just to clarify, when the circuit is open, like how I have it right now, with just a bare wire in the air, then the light will be on?  So it is ground to turn off?  I figured it would be the opposite, ground to close or turn on the circuit.

Edited July 1, 2015 by wolfy

[_shel_ny]

Why would a dome light use a dual filament bulb????

[wolfy]

My thought exactly! But what bulb should be there?

[49roadster]

The correct bulb is mopar part number 142446 discribed as double contact single filament.  My 1949 Plymouth suburban is the first time I had ever run across this.  The bulb is always getting 6V . You compleat the ground to turn it on.  The base for the light is insulated from the socket. the switches compleat the ground and cause the light to come on.  I sounds as if you either have the wrong lamp assumbly for that car or you have a short in the lamp base. I got the correct bulb in an asortment of 1949 Plymouth bulbes on e-bay and don't remember the 1100 number.

Looking on the internet, it looks as if either a 1130 or 1594 would do.

Edited July 1, 2015 by 49roadster

[Dave72dt]

Aahh, that explains your grounding.  Most dual filament and dual contact bulbs will ground through the base.  that particular correct bulb, with it's twin contact and single filament must be an "in one contact and out the other "so the insulating is in the bulb itself.   The bulb base does not do the grounding on it.  A continuity test with an ohm meter should confirm that is what is happening.

Edited July 1, 2015 by Dave72dt

[wolfy]

  On 7/1/2015 at 5:00 AM, 49roadster said:

The correct bulb is mopar part number 142446 discribed as double contact single filament.  My 1949 Plymouth suburban is the first time I had ever run across this.  The bulb is always getting 6V . You compleat the ground to turn it on.  The base for the light is insulated from the socket. the switches compleat the ground and cause the light to come on.  I sounds as if you either have the wrong lamp assumbly for that car or you have a short in the lamp base. I got the correct bulb in an asortment of 1949 Plymouth bulbes on e-bay and don't remember the 1100 number.

Looking on the internet, it looks as if either a 1130 or 1594 would do.

This looks to be the solution.  I figured it was something strange like this.  But I did have that one switch that was stuck so I thought that may be the case.  Plus the previous owner had spent quite a bit of time looking into this.  This makes perfect sense.  I figured it would have to be ground to turn on, because you have to close the circuit. 

 

Thank you thank you thank you for the bulb numbers!!!  I will get a few of these and give it a shot. 

 

  On 7/1/2015 at 12:54 PM, Dave72dt said:

Aahh, that explains your grounding.  Most dual filament and dual contact bulbs will ground through the base.  that particular correct bulb, with it's twin contact and single filament must be an "in one contact and out the other "so the insulating is in the bulb itself.   The bulb base does not do the grounding on it.  A continuity test with an ohm meter should confirm that is what is happening.

Thank you as well. 

 

Also just for some possible potential other problem.  What bulb would be needed for the Map lights.  Those are the 2 that are under the dash. 

 

Thank you all for your help!

[DonaldSmith]

My DeSoto manual calls for:

 

Map light, right: 1129 (also left without hand brake signal)

Map light, left:   1110 (with hand brake signal)

 

For what it's worth. 

[wolfy]

  On 7/1/2015 at 2:38 PM, DonaldSmith said:

My DeSoto manual calls for:

 

Map light, right: 1129 (also left without hand brake signal)

Map light, left:   1110 (with hand brake signal)

 

For what it's worth. 

worth its weight in gold!  Thank you so much

[wolfy]

Okay I bought some bulbs back in early July from Bulb Town.  They were on backorder, but they finally came through for me and got them.  

 

The 1130 bulbs work perfect in the dome light.  Dome light now works as it should.  The kicker here was finding the right bulb.  Thanks so much for steering me in the right direction. The other bulbs I had grounded out on the base, thus turning the light on the whole time.  

 

Next will be the map lights.  If I ever get a chance to go work on the car...

[Booger]

Can someone give me a part # on the bulb itself? 2 contact

[Sniper]

1130 is what the post above yours says he used in the dome light.

 

https://www.bulbtown.com/1130_Miiature_Bulb_Ba15d_Base_p/eiko1130.htm

[Dodgeb4ya]

#88 is the correct dome lite bulb for the 1950 Chrysler...15 watt, single filament, double contact

[Sniper]

looks like the 88 is a dimmer version of the 1130

 

https://www.bulbtown.com/88_Miniature_Bulb_Ba15d_Base_p/b88.htm

 

Same base ( Ba15d), same voltage, more watts with the 1130, more life with the 88. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

lots depends on your personal taste and style lens.....plastic lens and you will want the lower wattage so not to melt the lens.....

[Booger]

great information thanks to all

[Aram]

Can anyone tell me how to open the dome light? I have a 1947 Windsor sedan. Thanks.