Installation of Door Window Glass Questions

[Barry Maxwell]

To All:

 

I am in the process of installing the glass and mechanicals in the doors of my '51 B3C, and I have several questions.

 

1. When the window is all the way down, is there enough finger room to install/remove the fuzzy weatherstrip and bumpers on the outside and inside edges of the window opening?

 

2. At the bottom of the rear door channel there is a prong like "snivey" that sticks out that I assume acts as a lower stop for the window travel. Is that correct? If so, I assume that the long window run has to be cut off just above that "snivey". Is that correct?

 

3. The Shop Manual says "Run the window all the way down, remove the "stop screws" in the glass lower channel and unhook the window lift rollers from the glass lower channel". Where are those "stop screws? The only screws I see are in the bottom of the division bar and they don't stop anything.

 

Thanks for any help that you can provide.

 

Barry

[MarkAubuchon]

I have the same questions?????

[Desotodav]

Our door window setup here in Oz is slightly different to the USA models in that the access panel from inside the door is in a totally different place.

 

In answer to your questions though Barry:

1.  I installed the fuzzy weatherstrip before the glass went in as there is more room to move one's fat fingers. I recall that the top of the window sits about level with those felt strips with the window fully down so that limits the space that you have to push that strip in so that the clips clip into the three holes on each side.

 

2.  I recall a 'snivey' in the channel, but from memory that was a stop for the outer channel (we call it 'Bailey Channel' here in Oz) from sliding up or down. The window winder stops going down when it gets to the end of the cog teeth on the window winder, and naturally stops going up when the window is fully closed.

 

3.  I am not sure what they mean when they talk about the 'stop screws'. The winder mechanism has 2 posts which push through the bottom window channel, and then is held in place by the 2 roller wheels with a small metal clip mounted in the groove of those posts to hold it all in place.

Edited April 9, 2015 by Desotodav

[NiftyFifty]

The "snivey" holds the rubber channel in from sliding down...but I'd just call it the tab at the bottom of the steel window channel I also agree, the brush or cat whiskers go in before the window goes in...as for the regulator...can't help...I ditched mine for power windows...partly because of how ugly it was to get out.

[Desotodav]

Attached is a photo of the inside of an Aussie PH door. Ours are quite different to the USA ones as we have a small opening higher in the door to get to our window mechanism..

[NiftyFifty]

Looks like a much better design, but could use an extra inch around. Be near I possible to do power windows in that door without a new cut

[MBF]

It was a long time ago when I did mine.  I think there are two stamped metal discs or clips that hold the roller assembly in place (at the bottom of the window).  These get removed so that you can separate the window and bottom channel attached to the glass from the regulator mechanism.  But, like I said it was a long time ago, and they were the single pane style w/o the vent window.   Mike

[The Oil Soup]

I did mine a while ago and I think that's right, disconnect rollers in track, rotate window 90 degrees, remove through top of door, remove regulator through access panel. Also w/o vent windows.

[Barry Maxwell]

Thank you all for your input on this. Very helpful! I will install the fuzzy strip and bumpers before putting the glass in. Also, I will trim the window run just above the tab (a better term than "snivey") near the bottom of the rear window channel. Hopefully, I will be able to install the window glass next week, and then install the vent windows. Thanks again.

 

One last question (I hope). How do you lock the driver side door? I thought that it would lock by pulling the inside handle up. That certainly doesn't work.

 

Barry

[Merle Coggins]

Yea, it should lock by lifting up on the inside door handle. Down to open, up to lock.

I don't believe I put the rubber bumpers in the door until I had the side window in place. I recall that you'll need the room to slide the window down into the door.

[ruff1148kr]

I'm also following this post, keep the great info coming will have to tackle this soon

[Barry Maxwell]

Yea, it should lock by lifting up on the inside door handle. Down to open, up to lock.

I don't believe I put the rubber bumpers in the door until I had the side window in place. I recall that you'll need the room to slide the window down into the door.

 

 

Merle:

I will have to take the door jamb mechanism out and figure out what is going on or not going on regarding locking the door. I see what you mean about putting the fuzzy strip and bumpers in after the window glass is in place. There doesn't appear to be enough room to get the window glass in past the strip and bumpers. However, other folks have said that the strip and bumpers go in first. Go figure.

Barry

[ggdad1951]

Merle:

I will have to take the door jamb mechanism out and figure out what is going on or not going on regarding locking the door. I see what you mean about putting the fuzzy strip and bumpers in after the window glass is in place. There doesn't appear to be enough room to get the window glass in past the strip and bumpers. However, other folks have said that the strip and bumpers go in first. Go figure.

Barry

I put the rubber bumpers in after the glass. But I don't think it really matters because I've taken the glass out and back in with them in place as well.

[Desotodav]

...One last question (I hope). How do you lock the driver side door? I thought that it would lock by pulling the inside handle up. That certainly doesn't work.

 

There are three springs in the door latch mechanism Barry (see photo): The small 'L' shaped spring (top of photo) activates the lock, the smaller and thin coiled spring (below left) prevents what we here call 'handle droop' , and the thickerer large coiled spring (below right) creates back pressure on the latch tongue.

 

The 'L' shaped spring which activates the locking mechanism is located in the remote part of the mechanism (behind the door handle) - see attached photo with red circled area for spring location. I suspect that you will find this small spring either missing or broken if flipping up your handle will not lock your door.

[The Oil Soup]

I put the fuzzy strip on both sides of the window instead of using the rubber bumpers and then installed the glass but that is w/o vent windows. may be different with them.

[Barry Maxwell]

There are three springs in the door latch mechanism Barry (see photo): The small 'L' shaped spring (top of photo) activates the lock, the smaller and thin coiled spring (below left) prevents what we here call 'handle droop' , and the thickerer large coiled spring (below right) creates back pressure on the latch tongue.

 

The 'L' shaped spring which activates the locking mechanism is located in the remote part of the mechanism (behind the door handle) - see attached photo with red circled area for spring location. I suspect that you will find this small spring either missing or broken if flipping up your handle will not lock your door.

 

 

Davin:

 

Thank you for this information. It is very helpful! Yesterday, before receiving your post, I decided to remove the door jamb mechanism to see what is going on. I removed the 6 screws and tried to remove the mechanism and quickly realized that I had to work it free from the rear channel. Since my wife was not available to help (as in the past), I decided that I could live with the inability to lock the door. Thus, I reinstalled the mechanism. I have since checked the rear of the handle mechanism and the spring circled in you photo IS missing. Also, since my handle droops, I suspect the spring that deals with handle droop is also missing or broken. To sum it all up, I can learn to live with a droopy handle and a door that will not lock. There are worse things. Thanks again for your post. I am sure that it will be valuable for others in the future.

 

Barry

[Desotodav]

Barry, I have all of those (3) door latch springs available if you want to PM me. I had a small supply of them made in stainless steel a while back. They were not the cheapest to have made, but I suspected that there was little else out there.

Edited April 12, 2015 by Desotodav

[Jeff Balazs]

Barry;

I would take Davin up on his offer. These springs are very hard to source......and droopy door handles are not good enough for that beautiful truck you have built.

 

Jeff

[Barry Maxwell]

Barry, I have all of those (3) door latch springs available if you want to PM me. I had a small supply of them made in stainless steel a while back. They were not the cheapest to have made, but I suspected that there was little else out there.

 

 

Davin:

 

I may take you up on your offer to buy one or more springs, and Jeff obviously agrees. First, I have to convince my wife to help me two more times in wrestling that blasted mechanism around the rear channel. We have done it several times before, but we got a bit testy with each other each time (to say the least). Actually, she is much more talented with these things than I am. That really burns me up, but that is the way it is. Actually, I am really thankful for her talents.

 

Marjie is working on the other side of our farm today on a project at our daughters home. Thus, I won't be able to talk with her until the end of the day. I will PM you in a day or two  (if I can figure out how to do that). Many thanks for you offer.

 

Barry

[Jeff Balazs]

Barry;

Drooping door handles are not the end of the world. And I certainly don't want to suggest anything that might cause domestic strife. But I have been following your build for quite a while........and it is exceptional.

In my opinion.......this is the appropriate time to get this handle fixed. And it is probably easier while the conditions are fresh in your mind. Blame me if it helps at all.

 

Jeff

[NiftyFifty]

Not to hijack, but I'm having a brain fart (too long with the truck apart)...from the inside can you lift the passenger side handle up and lock it too? Reason I ask is Im on the hunt for new outside door handles and thinking I need just one locking for the drivers side and a non locking for psgr because I can lock it from inside. I'm not interested in trying to fix my original door lock, it's siezed in and expensive to get a NOS.

Thanks

[TrampSteer]

From what I've been told no. You have to use the key on the passenger side. I don't know for sure because my key doesn't fit

[NiftyFifty]

I'm thinking you can, just from back when the truck was on the road I swear I used to lock that door and then lock mine through the vent window...just for the honest thief...but can't say 100%

[Merle Coggins]

I believe you're right. I know my passenger side door handle will lift up just like the driver's side, but I've never went outside and checked that it was locked.

 

Merle

[Young Ed]

I believe you're right. I know my passenger side door handle will lift up just like the driver's side, but I've never went outside and checked that it was locked.

 

Merle

 

I would guess that too. My car has an exterior lock on both doors but you can still lock from the inside with the handle.