Just Brought home our new 48 dodge D24...

[scott_53]

First of thanks for all the info I've gotten from this site.   With a little searching, I'm learning a lot about our new 48 D24.   One simple thing I could use help on.   I'd like to change the points as part of the first tune up.   But I'm having trouble reaching down into the distributor.   I'm standing on a milk crate, reaching down there feeling like I'm gonna fall headfirst  into the engine compartment.  

 

I had a 68 Dart as a kid, with the sland 6 and I would just take out the distributor to change and gap the points.......found it easier, but this dist is harder to get to.  So.........

 

Do your guys just take out the distributor to change and gap the point, or do that with it in the car?

 

Also is it best to use pertroleum jelly on the felt to lube the cam, or is there something better now.

 

 

Thanks!

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes..key here..look at the rotor location prior to slipping out...return to same position on reinstall...also remember NOT to turn the engine while distributor is out...ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE  make sure you get your tune up parts based on the distributor model..found on the red tag of the distributor itself..do not intermingle parts...

Edited March 20, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[LFT_QBA_1980]

Yeah, its not only that the car is tall but also the fender is wide. I am 5.5' and Its hard to reach over. But I did the spark plugs first, I got mine in 2010 and still till this day have not changed it. If it ran fine, I left it alone. As I learned more and more I got more into it. 

 

Welcome to the P15-D24 club. Put up pics, We love pics. 

LFT

[BobT-47P15]

Yes........as Plymouthy said............you can remove the distributor, but follow his cautions .       

[Young Ed]

I'm surprised you find the \6 easier to work with the distributor over the flathead. The few I've worked on I would state exactly the opposite.

[scott_53]

Thanks for all the replys..   I'll pull out the distributor, then install points and condenser.   Keeping the above cautions in mind. 

 

Also, it is pretty hard to start when cold...and it sure has been cold here in Western Mass.    I was looking at the auto choke....should that choke be completely closed before starting?  Mine is maybe 15% open on a cold day before starting.   Then I have to pump the gas pedal a lot of times till finally it starts.  Seems to start warm ok.

[Don Coatney]

Using a power supply and an electric drill you can set the dwell with the distributor spinning on the bench.

 

[scott_53]

Good idea........thanks

[DonaldSmith]

The Sisson automatic choke is part thermostatic and part electrical.  I bimetallic spring will close the choke partly when the weather is cold.  When the engine is cranking, the choke closes an additional extent.  So, it shouldn't be fully closed when it's not cranking.  

 

Someone's going to tell you to get a shop manual and parts manual, so I'll beat them to it.  The shop manual has a section on verifying the adjustment of the linkage.  And there's stuff in past threads about the choke.  Good luck; have fun.   

[scott_53]

Now I understand that much better....Thanks for you help..........manual is a necessity  it's on the way.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don't forget, to properly use the Sissions,  you must partially push down the throttle while cranking. during cranking you can release the throttle while starter motor is spinning so to set the high cam and thus close the choke butterfly..once started and as it warms it will release to a lower speed based on the action of the thermal sensitive spring and the operation of the throttle

[scott_53]

Well, I removed the dist, nope not too difficult, although it is a bit of a reach down in there.  I have to stand on a milk crate.  But no it came out easier that I anticipated.  Put in the new points and condenser, I see now no way to do that easily while the dist is in the car.      I'm finding a few  wires in there that were about to break off the connectors.  Fixed them.   Tried the starting suggestions...seemed to work.

 

Now to find a dwell meter somewhere....ebay I guess.

 

Thanks again!

[Jerry Roberts]

...

 

"  Also is it best to use pertroleum jelly on the felt to lube the cam, or is there something better now. ... "

 

Where I live petroleum jelly turns to liquid when it gets hot .   You can buy the special lubricate for the points cam from MACS Auto Parts , they sell it for the old Fords . You might also find it in other places . 

 

[Niel Hoback]

The dielectric grease that comes with plug wire sets works perfectly, just use enough for a very light coat all the way around.

[scott_53]

OK, Thanks for that info Jerry.   I only put a little PJ on the felt..not being sure and seeing all the splatter from some kind of lub from the PO.   Before warnm weather, I'll get some of that special lub from MAC.

 

Also thank you Plymouthy Adams.   Doing what you suggest dosen't just seem to work, it works awesome.  The car leaps to a start now.   I push the gas pedal down most of the way, then let it up as I push the starter button, and bam.........it's running.   Wow.  

 

Can't thank you all enough.

[ACJCF2]

Scott, you can purchase an inexpensive Acton tach, dwell meter through most parts retailers. It will work on 6V positive ground igntions too. I used mine several times my 54 Ford six. Can't wait to go get my "new" 49 Dodge. Have fun researching and networking here.

Jim

[central52]

I've also had difficulty starting my just purchased 47 Dodge. Reading the previous comments on the "Sissions" choke is new to me.  I didn't know my Dodge has it.  I was wondering why there was no choke knob on the dash, only a throttle knob, like there was on my previous car, a 47 Plymouth.  So, if it's not too much to ask, exactly, again, how do you go about starting the car in cold weather?   Ed

 

 

[casper50]

Don't forget, to properly use the Sissions,  you must partially push down the throttle while cranking. during cranking you can release the throttle while starter motor is spinning so to set the high cam and thus close the choke butterfly..once started and as it warms it will release to a lower speed based on the action of the thermal sensitive spring and the operation of the throttle

[_shel_ny]

 

Don't forget, to properly use the Sissions,  you must partially push down the throttle while cranking. during cranking you can release the throttle while starter motor is spinning so to set the high cam and thus close the choke butterfly..once started and as it warms it will release to a lower speed based on the action of the thermal sensitive spring and the operation of the throttle

 

Plus, if not started regularly, the fuel in the carb will evaporate, and additional cranking will be needed to get fuel from the pump to the carb.

[central52]

OK, when you say "push down on the throttle", do you mean to pull the knob all the way out?  And push it back?  Ed

[Niel Hoback]

I believe he means "step on the gas pedal to set the fast idle cam."  Cranking the engine will close the choke fully, releasing the starter will allow the thermal strip to adjust the choke as engine heat calls for it. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

you choice..so you wish to set with throttle pull cable..go for it..if you wish to set with the throttle linkage and foot pedal.....you can do that also..not all cars are throttle cable equipped...all Sission chokes are set with some throttle opening during starter operation....if you want to use the throttle pull you can leave it out till you decide to drop the rpm of the engine...the choke if set right will function automatically when engine starts...BUT the butterfly will not close till one or the other means for setting high cam is used during starter operation...this is not really covered in you repair manual, it is discussed in the ops manual..it is simple as can be....you just have to know how it works...from there it is simple..