1950 B-2-D

[Jeff Balazs]

That ought to work just fine. I like the location of the vent outlets on this model best. You will need to repair the flapper and find a fresh air intake shroud but that is no big deal. Fresh air intake is a great option! One thing to watch out for is the selection of a resistor switch for the fan. Beware of excess heat generated by the switch unit itself as some get very hot.

 

Jeff

[1TonDirtyMopar]

yes that would be "correct".  Nice find on the knobs, they look to be in great shape!

Awesome!  Thanks!! This was one of my blind purchases over the phone through ebay.  I bought a complete seat from a company off ebay.  I think i just saw a listing and decided to call them up to see if they had the heater and the entire seat assembly.  Didn't get any pictures just took the guys word for it and had them ship it out to me.  I'm really happy that i did and i really came up on this one.

 

That ought to work just fine. I like the location of the vent outlets on this model best. You will need to repair the flapper and find a fresh air intake shroud but that is no big deal. Fresh air intake is a great option! One thing to watch out for is the selection of a resistor switch for the fan. Beware of excess heat generated by the switch unit itself as some get very hot.

 

Jeff

The flapper functions i set the flapper to be open on the crease to show it open.  What does this fresh air intake shroud look like? Is it the rectangular looking piece i see on ebay?  Well i was planning on upgrading the electrical system to 12v.  I was reading some articles where guys found a replacement 12v that is "plug and play." I will order up the part once i get this thing cleaned up.

 

I also started cleaning up the bellhousing from the 3spd trans.  It has a lot of dirt and grime on it.  I'm trying to scrape off as much of the big stuff before i get in there with some wire brushes and wire wheels/cups.  I hope I can get at least the motor set into the truck by next weekend.

[pflaming]

This is a full edit of my earlier post which requires some documentation on several items. I thank some good forum members who pointed out those errors. Happy New year.

Google: WD 40 history. I found it to be very interesting.

Google: Penetrating oil comparisons - The Garage Journal Board. This is a report on a penetrating oil test.

Edited December 27, 2014 by pflaming

[ggdad1951]

Yes the intake is a rectangular piece that necks down to a round.

[Plymouthy Adams]

pflaming, on 27 Dec 2014 - 07:19 AM, said:pflaming, on 27 Dec 2014 - 07:19 AM, said:

On that bell housing, try 5O% acetone and transmission for an over night soak. the acetone penetrates the crud and draws in the fluid to soften the crud. This combo was the penetrating oil of the 3O's and up. Still the best penetrating oil, according to comparison testing. WD 4O the least effective as a penetrating oil, but then it wasn't formulated to penetrate. It was formulated to keep launch missiles slick and ice free at launch time, and employees started taking some home for home use. Interesting history on we 4O.

I have posted this here a number of times...our own US Navy probably has more experience at rusted hardware and fasteners than many combined.  The penetrant they use and within the shipyards that effect these repairs, oil of wintergreen has been proven most effective.  AND can be stored in plastic container.  Acetone will dissolve many plastics, in many application acetone is the very glue use to fuse plastics and for that reason one should be very careful using it and especially in areas where painted surface are concerned and also other plastics/rubber.  I would not load it into a squirt can applicator for sure.  While proven to be somewhat effect this combination must be handled carefully.   Most all folks have a favorite product..most is based on what is available at the local market..WD 40 is available in my area....I have never seen WE 40..may be a west coast product eh? 

Edited December 27, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[Jeff Balazs]

Mike;

From the photo you posted at least half the flapper is missing? It is a full circle metal disc. When closed it blocks off 100% of the air coming from the 4" intake hose.

 

Converting the truck to 12V is probably a wise move. I wish I would have made that decision early on. It would have been a money saver and made several things much easier. 6 volt works just fine but it limits choices and often ends up costing far more than 12V. ......... last time I ever listen to Hank

 

One thing about heavy dirt and grime here in SoCal........I'd bet that bell housing looks like new underneath. Mine did.

 

Jeff

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Yes the intake is a rectangular piece that necks down to a round.

hmmm is it this?

 

or is there some other kind?  And where does that get mounted?

 

Mike;

From the photo you posted at least half the flapper is missing? It is a full circle metal disc. When closed it blocks off 100% of the air coming from the 4" intake hose.

 

Converting the truck to 12V is probably a wise move. I wish I would have made that decision early on. It would have been a money saver and made several things much easier. 6 volt works just fine but it limits choices and often ends up costing far more than 12V. ......... last time I ever listen to Hank

 

One thing about heavy dirt and grime here in SoCal........I'd bet that bell housing looks like new underneath. Mine did.

 

Jeff

 

oh no the flapper is complete.  I just took a picture with it open.  It does have the felt all the way around it as well.

 

i think it'll just make my life a lot easier and i could do some updated goodies with it as well.  Well if you wanted to keep it all original i can totally see it being worth the hastle.

 

This is a full edit of my earlier post which requires some documentation on several items. I thank some good forum members who pointed out those errors. Happy New year.

Google: WD 40 history. I found it to be very interesting.

Google: Penetrating oil comparisons - The Garage Journal Board. This is a report on a penetrating oil test.

 

Yes WD-40 is my friend with a lot of these nuts and bolts.  Regular WD-40 is working but i see there's a WD-40 rust penetrant that i'd like to try out.  So that one is next.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

So today I got some more work done on the engine prep.  Got the FD stuff off finally and also test fitted the shorter bellhousing.  Here's a few pics.

 

I ended up having to loosen up the TQ converter bolts to be able to get the bell off.  The dowel pins were getting in the way of me being able to pull the housing off.

 

 

I have to admit i was pretty surprised to see such a big and heavy unit.  The one on my buddy's Charger was a lot smaller and lighter.

 

As you can see the clutch and pressure plate look to be in really good shape.  Almost like this was just installed not long ago.  There's still plenty of meat on the clutch as well.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2014 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[1TonDirtyMopar]

 

Here's the test fit of the shorter bellhousing.  It is in the process of being cleaned up so it's not going to go on the truck this way.  Also I was trying to figure out how to get the pedals off.  I noticed that the shaft on the outer end has a key type deal on it but no way to remove it.  Any suggestions?

 

I also noticed that the rear mounting brackets that are attached here were modified to fit.  It looks like a torch was used to burn some bigger holes to be able to line up the bolt holes on the top.  Anyone have some rear brackets for sale?

 

Here's the clutch and pressure plate from that came out of the 48.  Should be good to rock and roll....Yea Right...

Edited December 29, 2014 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[Dodgeb4ya]

Setting that FD coupling that way (upside down) could cause the graphite seal to leak. I don't know if you care but those couplings are kinda $$$ these days to find and replace. The truck couplings are the same as Straight "8"  10" clutch Chrysler cars 1949-50.

Bob

[ggdad1951]

hmmm is it this?

 

or is there some other kind?  And where does that get mounted?

 

yep that's it.  There will be a knock out on the grill that is the right shape on the passenger side.  Sadly off the top of my head I can't remember if it mounts to the inner fender or the rad mounts and my truck is in storage so I can't look!    let me dig I think I have the instructions to mount it somewhere.

 

found it:

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Oh wow. Thanks for that picture! That particular one is on ebay for 125 and the mount8ng bracket is another 35 or 45 plus shipping for both. I guess ill keep an eye out.

[Jeff Balazs]

Mike;

Those items come up on ebay pretty often......and often at better pricing. Nice thing too is that it can be added at anytime. Adding it is actually a fun little project. Knock outs are already there and the intakes bolts to the inner fender. The piece you will want to keep an eye out for is the cable operated water valve that mounts at the rear of the head. It really is a DeLux setup with that valve.

 

Take good care of that fluid drive stuff......you may not need it but it does have value. Good trade item. You might be pleasantly surprised by what you could get for it.

 

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Mike;

Those items come up on ebay pretty often......and often at better pricing. Nice thing too is that it can be added at anytime. Adding it is actually a fun little project. Knock outs are already there and the intakes bolts to the inner fender. The piece you will want to keep an eye out for is the cable operated water valve that mounts at the rear of the head. It really is a DeLux setup with that valve.

 

Take good care of that fluid drive stuff......you may not need it but it does have value. Good trade item. You might be pleasantly surprised by what you could get for it.

 

Jeff

my Y shaped water valve cost me over $400 from a member here and I had to really pry it loose from him.  Those are hard to find and tend to seize up over time so...other valves work just fine tho and are more readily available if you are not worried about being "stock".

[Don Coatney]

Call me cheep. I simply used a ball valve.

 

[Jeff Balazs]

Ok Don.....you are cheap. It doesn't have to be the high dollar original.......but it isn't DeLuxe if it isn't cable operated.

The cable operated stuff is just so cool. One of my favorite.....totally "analog" features on these trucks.

I have not quite figured out exactly how yet......but eventually I am going to do up a cable operated hood locking system for my truck.

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

You will need more than gears. Looks like it needs to return to It's former life as a boat anchor. But don't worry, with all the guys putting T-5s in their trucks, you are bound to find a much better candidate for rebuilding here on the forum.

 

Hank 

[Don Coatney]

My car has a cable operated hood latch. You might want to look at the hood latch on a D-14 as they have the butterfly hood with a cable latch on both sides.

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Mike;

Those items come up on ebay pretty often......and often at better pricing. Nice thing too is that it can be added at anytime. Adding it is actually a fun little project. Knock outs are already there and the intakes bolts to the inner fender. The piece you will want to keep an eye out for is the cable operated water valve that mounts at the rear of the head. It really is a DeLux setup with that valve.

 

Take good care of that fluid drive stuff......you may not need it but it does have value. Good trade item. You might be pleasantly surprised by what you could get for it.

 

Jeff

 

I've seen the same items for the longest time. Just seem to be so expensive for what they are.  One day...

 

Did some more work today cleaned up some brackets with a little elbow grease a wire brush and some foam degreaser.

 

Before

 

After

 

 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Also made this interesting discovery...

 

 

 

 

An air tank!  I highly doubt this was factory and was added on by someone else.

[pflaming]

Put an air horn on that tank! Great for "traffic control", lol

[Jeff Balazs]

Mike......what is the longest time?   You have not been at it that long. Here is the thing about stuff on ebay...... there are overpriced items and then there are fair priced items. The over priced ones are on there for ages. The fair priced items tend to go quickly.......some times in less than a day. So if you are not watching they can come and go without you even noticing. I have gotten some real good deals on ebay. And I have seen these items on ebay for fair prices.

 

Remember you are in this for the long haul. There really isn't much in the way of instant gratification when it comes to reviving one of these trucks. Bringing one of these trucks back from the brink is no easy task. And if you are going to do it right It is truly a long haul thing. When I was at the stage you are at the list of things to do and find was almost overwhelming. Most if not all of my friends thought I was nuts to do one of these trucks. There were several points when I too wondered. But piece by piece it all started to come together. And when one of my buddies finally said "now I see what you saw in this truck"  I knew I was over the hump. The real gratification comes later when the list is short and the smile doesn't fade. This is really the best way I can explain to you what you are in for.

 

Jeff

[pflaming]

Jeff is spot on. I do an area at a time. I do not think ,whole truck, though I do have a picture in my mind of what I want. Some areas require no imagination, other areas are pure mechanical although there are choices there also, such as rear axle ratio, disc brakes, 6 or 12 volt electrical, etc. eventually you are on the road and then I start to fine tune. Stay the course, the first time is no where's near as hard as the second (post fire) round.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Put an air horn on that tank! Great for "traffic control", lol

LOL...I did purchase some air horns for the 48.  I don't think I will be using them on the 50 though.  I did try one at about 40 psi and my ears were ringing for quite some time after the quick burst.

 

Mike......what is the longest time?   You have not been at it that long. Here is the thing about stuff on ebay...... there are overpriced items and then there are fair priced items. The over priced ones are on there for ages. The fair priced items tend to go quickly.......some times in less than a day. So if you are not watching they can come and go without you even noticing. I have gotten some real good deals on ebay. And I have seen these items on ebay for fair prices.

 

Remember you are in this for the long haul. There really isn't much in the way of instant gratification when it comes to reviving one of these trucks. Bringing one of these trucks back from the brink is no easy task. And if you are going to do it right It is truly a long haul thing. When I was at the stage you are at the list of things to do and find was almost overwhelming. Most if not all of my friends thought I was nuts to do one of these trucks. There were several points when I too wondered. But piece by piece it all started to come together. And when one of my buddies finally said "now I see what you saw in this truck"  I knew I was over the hump. The real gratification comes later when the list is short and the smile doesn't fade. This is really the best way I can explain to you what you are in for.

 

Jeff

Well Jeff, I've actually been parts hunting for my 48 since I got it back in 2010.  I have definitely been patient on buying parts from ebay.  But I have to admit I do tend to buy things I've been looking for rather quickly since they do pop up and disappear as fast as you can blink.  I'm definitely in it for the long haul.  These trucks don't have as big of an aftermarket as the Fords and Chevys so it's definitely a mission finding parts.  Slowly but surely I have been collecting parts for the 48 and now that the 50 is in better shape and more complete a good chunk of those parts will get installed on the 50. 

 

Jeff is spot on. I do an area at a time. I do not think ,whole truck, though I do have a picture in my mind of what I want. Some areas require no imagination, other areas are pure mechanical although there are choices there also, such as rear axle ratio, disc brakes, 6 or 12 volt electrical, etc. eventually you are on the road and then I start to fine tune. Stay the course, the first time is no where's near as hard as the second (post fire) round.

I have to agree with you guys.  I do have a vision of what I want for both of my trucks.  I try to keep the truck as a whole in my mind especially when buying parts.  You just never know when a good chunk of these parts will pop up again.  This 50 will stay relatively "original." with only a few modern twists like a 12v upgrade. 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Anybody want some chocolate milk?

 

 

Found it in the air cleaner.

 

Also, here are the rear mount brackets that were jerry rigged.